offer of the day – olivier bernstein…

By billn on April 15, 2011 #the market

OLIVIER BERNSTEIN 2009 – BURGUNDY

VILLAGE
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN 2009 75cl 69.00 (Swiss francs)

PREMIERS CRUS
CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY LES LAVROTTES 2009 75cl 129.00
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN LES CHAMPEAUX 2009 75cl 129.00
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN LES CAZETIERS 2009 75cl 119.00

GRANDS CRUS
CLOS DE LA ROCHE 2009 75cl 298.00
MAZIS-CHAMBERTIN 2009 75cl 345.00
BONNES-MARES 2009 75cl 345.00
CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BEZE 2009 75cl 398.00
CORTON CHARLEMAGNE 2009 75cl 168.00

Grands Crus are sold only together with Village or Premiers Crus – apparently. Aspirational pricing that loses the soul of the place in my opinion – it gives the impression of somebody more focused on cash than place I’m afraid to say (is it him or his importers?).

I think a fair question is ‘why would you pay twice the price for a Clos de la Roche from this producer (by the way, his cheapest GC red), than from Laurent Ponsot?’…

jean-noel gagnard 2008 chassagne caillerets

By billn on April 14, 2011 #degustation

Quite the nicest young white wine I can remember drinking at home – in ages!

2008 Jean-Noel Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Les Caillerets
Medium-pale lemon yellow. The nose is crystal clear and accented with faint creamy vanilla – very absorbing. Gorgeous balance with an intense core of mineral and fruit that lingers long in the finish. This wine is taking over the evening with a vituoso performance. Lovely
Rebuy – Yes

le weekend…

By billn on April 13, 2011 #degustation#travel

chassagne-montrachetJust a few notes from a lovely, sunny weekend.

We were holed up in the Mâconnais village of St.Gengoux-le-National – which used to be le-Royal before the revolution – very picturesque and calm, the area is dotted with pretty little château. I can only think of one complaint; a fifty mile drive for a Côte de Nuits appointment – okay everything is relative – normally I drive 160 miles!

Highlights
Appointments came thick and fast; Lamarche, Michel Gros, Dubreuil-Fontaine, Maison Ilan, M&M, David Clark, Jean-Noel Gagnard and Gilles Bouton. Quite a few 2010s have already finished their malolactic fermentations and are beginning to taste like fresh and precise wines – similarities to 08 but (let’s see) maybe with a better average balance and some interesting depth. The 2009s are mainly in bottle now – only by days in some cases – though some producers may wait another month or two.

The weekend was a Côte Châlonnais winefest and I’m ashamed I don’t have notes of any of the producers of those simple, and occasionally not so simple yet always tasty wines. Myself I opened a 93 Voillot Meursault Cras (solid as a rock – that’s 5 bottles now), a 99 Mugnier Amoureuses (the best aromas I can remember this year and a palate that’s starting to seem a little less simple) and a 76 Richebourg from some anonymous producer (warm, friendly, very understated though no fireworks as far as I could tell with my cold).

Back just in time to mow the grass and then be hit by the rain and cold – it was frosty this morning – hope those leaves and buds in the Côtes weren’t caught out!

Burgundy Report

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