Note: The picture at the top of the page – this week – is the Clos St.Philibert, looking down on Vosne below…

2001 Méo-Camuzet, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits Clos St.Philibert
What a great wine both this and the 2000 have been – this is my last bottle and all have performed well. Medium-plus golden, the nose has hints of butterscotch and the faintest whiff of oxidation – but in an interesting rather than overt way. The palate remains smooth though there’s a suggestion that the acidity is starting to take hold, but for now it just helps to push the finish a little longer and with a very understated mouth-watering edge. This wine is still giving plenty – for sure it’s completely mature, but whilst I think it might last another few years, if you have some, I’m pretty sure that the experience won’t improve. Well-done Hautes Côtes de Nuits Blanc!
Rebuy – Yes

2008 Dubreuil-Fontaine, Pommard 1er Epenots
Medium, medium plus colour. The nose starts dense and unyielding; I had to wait about 2 hours before enjoyment set in, that enjoyment in the form of joyous red cherry, accented with raisins and violet flowers – yum. Very understated tannin but smooth of texture and then a super growth of concentration and intensity in the mid-palate – yet just a hint lean. This is a very good wine, but I thought the bottle I tasted at the domaine better.
Rebuy – Yes

2008 Jean-Noel Gagnard Santenay 1er Clos de Tavannes
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose has a cool yet welcoming range of fruit aromas, perhaps topped with faint violets. Very good flavour that seems quite wide and, with it, a very good persistence. The balance here is just about perfect (for me), tannins only showing themselves if you chew. Lovely wine. As a direct comparison, and as drinkable as this wine is, it falls short of the intensity of the Montrevenots earlier in the week, by comparison seeming more dilute – that doesn’t mean that I like it any less – the aromas improve all the time and are quite a match for the Beaune.
Rebuy – Yes

You might notice a few names cropping up, time and again in the next days, reviewing purchases in the Côtes from last week. I think a few of us bought this wine – what a good start!

2008 Dubreuil-Fontaine, Beaune 1er Montrevenots
Medium colour. The nose starts tight but over twenty minutes opens to show pungent raspberry and beautifully detailed redcurrants; swirl and an impression of licorice raises itself from the depths. There’s no getting away from a certain freshness that this wine delivers, but it’s not just acidity; it seems to be coupled with a sorbet-like impression of red fruits. Little obvious tannin but a mouth-watering finish. At it’s best over the summer before the ‘padding’ fades? Let’s see! After one hour the raspberry and (now) strawberry aromas are thing to behold!
Rebuy – Yes

Just before bottling I had a slight preference for this over the Caillerets of the other day, and much as I still think ‘yum’ I’ve now reversed my preference! This is a wine that stands apart in the JN-G range; although ‘in’ Chassagne it is the least Chassagne-like wine that they have – perhaps because it is next door to Le Montrachet…!

2008 Jean-Noel Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Blanchot Dessus
Medium lemon yellow. The nose is clean and gives-up a line of bright, ripe yellow fruit; like the Caillerets accented with faint creamy vanilla – though perhaps with less to hold the attention and saying little to me of Chassagne. Slightly fat texture but with very good acidity bubbling below – it’s certainly richer than the Caillerets but not in a negative sense. I find this tighter than my recollection though there’s a concentrated block of good flavour and intensity in the mid-palate – the flavour lasts long too. Very nice wine indeed but, today at least, it can’t match that precocious Caillerets (of which I think I need more!).
Rebuy – Yes

I cannot take credit for this ‘find’; it was Ray Walker of Maison Ilan who gave me the tip – he’s already bought a few cases. So will I, I think, perhaps a visit too next month if possible!

2008 Henri Jouan, Gevrey-Chambertin Aux Echézeaux Vieilles Vignes
Medium colour. First there’s a hint of musky vanilla going on; as the vanilla fades to the background there a more higher-toned, almost floral aroma; finally there is a beautifully precise red berry note – who needs to drink? Clean, with a slighly cushioned texture, fine acity that enables a long line into the finish. You’ve got to search hard to find the tannin. Fresh but not overly so, this is a perfectly fresh berry for plucking right now if you so feel. Lovely, lovely wine.
Rebuy – Yes

2008 Dubreuil-Fontaine, Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Clos Berthet
The aromas are generous and all-enveloping – quite lovely. There is roundness and an acid-borne intensity that is perfectly balanced. Mouth-watering flavours linger in a good finish. Generous yet mineral, this is drinking perfectly right now – now how to keep my hands off more?
Rebuy – Yes