Another Gambal Bourgogne Blanc 2008 yesterday – that’s more than a case and a half of super, supple drinking.
But I’ll soon be on the lookout for a new house-wine for this year I think – I have a candidate firts bottles arriving at the end of next month… 😉
dubreuil-fontaine 2008 beaune 1er montrevenots…

You might notice a few names cropping up, time and again in the next days, reviewing purchases in the Côtes from last week. I think a few of us bought this wine – what a good start!
2008 Dubreuil-Fontaine, Beaune 1er Montrevenots
Medium colour. The nose starts tight but over twenty minutes opens to show pungent raspberry and beautifully detailed redcurrants; swirl and an impression of licorice raises itself from the depths. There’s no getting away from a certain freshness that this wine delivers, but it’s not just acidity; it seems to be coupled with a sorbet-like impression of red fruits. Little obvious tannin but a mouth-watering finish. At it’s best over the summer before the ‘padding’ fades? Let’s see! After one hour the raspberry and (now) strawberry aromas are thing to behold!
Rebuy – Yes
offer of the day – Domaine de l’Arlot 2009…
It must be the season! Equivalent 2008 prices in brackets for comparison.
DOMAINE DE L’ARLOT 2009 – Nuits-St-Georges
NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES Le Petit Arlot 75cl 42.00 (Swiss Francs) (39.50)
NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES Clos de l’Arlot 75cl 69.50 (68.00)
NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES Clos des Forêts Saint Georges 75cl 69.50 (68.00)
VOSNE-ROMANEE Les Suchots 75cl 99.00 (84.00)
ROMANEE SAINT VIVANT 75cl 299.00 (248.00)
I guess, given the increase, that Les Suchots is also becoming a trophy wine, that or the market won’t stand similar increases for Nuits St.Georges – effectively the Nuits pricing is close to unchanged – but then I thought 08 too expensive. This remans a domaine whose wines I enjoy but only ocasionally as the stems can be a bit aggressive young; 3-5 years down the line and they are lovely though. I note that even when you add the (new) UK 20% tax, the 2009 Nuits are cheaper in the UK…
2008 jean-noel gagnard chassagne 1er blanchot dessus

Just before bottling I had a slight preference for this over the Caillerets of the other day, and much as I still think ‘yum’ I’ve now reversed my preference! This is a wine that stands apart in the JN-G range; although ‘in’ Chassagne it is the least Chassagne-like wine that they have – perhaps because it is next door to Le Montrachet…!
2008 Jean-Noel Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Blanchot Dessus
Medium lemon yellow. The nose is clean and gives-up a line of bright, ripe yellow fruit; like the Caillerets accented with faint creamy vanilla – though perhaps with less to hold the attention and saying little to me of Chassagne. Slightly fat texture but with very good acidity bubbling below – it’s certainly richer than the Caillerets but not in a negative sense. I find this tighter than my recollection though there’s a concentrated block of good flavour and intensity in the mid-palate – the flavour lasts long too. Very nice wine indeed but, today at least, it can’t match that precocious Caillerets (of which I think I need more!).
Rebuy – Yes
henri jouan 2008 gevery aux echézeaux

I cannot take credit for this ‘find’; it was Ray Walker of Maison Ilan who gave me the tip – he’s already bought a few cases. So will I, I think, perhaps a visit too next month if possible!
2008 Henri Jouan, Gevrey-Chambertin Aux Echézeaux Vieilles Vignes
Medium colour. First there’s a hint of musky vanilla going on; as the vanilla fades to the background there a more higher-toned, almost floral aroma; finally there is a beautifully precise red berry note – who needs to drink? Clean, with a slighly cushioned texture, fine acity that enables a long line into the finish. You’ve got to search hard to find the tannin. Fresh but not overly so, this is a perfectly fresh berry for plucking right now if you so feel. Lovely, lovely wine.
Rebuy – Yes
dubreuil-fontaine 2008 pernand 1er clos berthet

2008 Dubreuil-Fontaine, Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Clos Berthet
The aromas are generous and all-enveloping – quite lovely. There is roundness and an acid-borne intensity that is perfectly balanced. Mouth-watering flavours linger in a good finish. Generous yet mineral, this is drinking perfectly right now – now how to keep my hands off more?
Rebuy – Yes
offer of the day – olivier bernstein…
OLIVIER BERNSTEIN 2009 – BURGUNDY
VILLAGE
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN 2009 75cl 69.00 (Swiss francs)
PREMIERS CRUS
CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY LES LAVROTTES 2009 75cl 129.00
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN LES CHAMPEAUX 2009 75cl 129.00
GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN LES CAZETIERS 2009 75cl 119.00
GRANDS CRUS
CLOS DE LA ROCHE 2009 75cl 298.00
MAZIS-CHAMBERTIN 2009 75cl 345.00
BONNES-MARES 2009 75cl 345.00
CHAMBERTIN CLOS DE BEZE 2009 75cl 398.00
CORTON CHARLEMAGNE 2009 75cl 168.00
Grands Crus are sold only together with Village or Premiers Crus – apparently. Aspirational pricing that loses the soul of the place in my opinion – it gives the impression of somebody more focused on cash than place I’m afraid to say (is it him or his importers?).
I think a fair question is ‘why would you pay twice the price for a Clos de la Roche from this producer (by the way, his cheapest GC red), than from Laurent Ponsot?’…
jean-noel gagnard 2008 chassagne caillerets
Quite the nicest young white wine I can remember drinking at home – in ages!
2008 Jean-Noel Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Les Caillerets
Medium-pale lemon yellow. The nose is crystal clear and accented with faint creamy vanilla – very absorbing. Gorgeous balance with an intense core of mineral and fruit that lingers long in the finish. This wine is taking over the evening with a vituoso performance. Lovely
Rebuy – Yes
le weekend…
Just a few notes from a lovely, sunny weekend.
We were holed up in the Mâconnais village of St.Gengoux-le-National – which used to be le-Royal before the revolution – very picturesque and calm, the area is dotted with pretty little château. I can only think of one complaint; a fifty mile drive for a Côte de Nuits appointment – okay everything is relative – normally I drive 160 miles!
Highlights
Appointments came thick and fast; Lamarche, Michel Gros, Dubreuil-Fontaine, Maison Ilan, M&M, David Clark, Jean-Noel Gagnard and Gilles Bouton. Quite a few 2010s have already finished their malolactic fermentations and are beginning to taste like fresh and precise wines – similarities to 08 but (let’s see) maybe with a better average balance and some interesting depth. The 2009s are mainly in bottle now – only by days in some cases – though some producers may wait another month or two.
The weekend was a Côte Châlonnais winefest and I’m ashamed I don’t have notes of any of the producers of those simple, and occasionally not so simple yet always tasty wines. Myself I opened a 93 Voillot Meursault Cras (solid as a rock – that’s 5 bottles now), a 99 Mugnier Amoureuses (the best aromas I can remember this year and a palate that’s starting to seem a little less simple) and a 76 Richebourg from some anonymous producer (warm, friendly, very understated though no fireworks as far as I could tell with my cold).
Back just in time to mow the grass and then be hit by the rain and cold – it was frosty this morning – hope those leaves and buds in the Côtes weren’t caught out!