Slowly working myself into the new year – this is not such a bad start, but methinks, hardly a wine to search for – that said, Tardy remains attractively priced, or used to be anyway! Tomorrow I’ll go for another 07 Vosne 1er, but one that takes itself far more seriously – let’s see if it is warranted.

2007 Jean Tardy, Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Chaumes
Medium colour. The nose has some herbal elements above an understated but quite complex mix of fruit; cherry, strawberry and eventually a long redcurrant note. There is a hint of spice too, though I’m not sure if it’s from the soil or the barrel. I find a herbal element on the palate too – not quite green, but hinting at green. The texture is reasonably smooth, and seems to have an element of weight – tannin is there as a faint rasp on the end of your tongue. Decent length in a red register. I expect this had a bit better balance 18 months ago; today it’s far from seemless, the acidity just seems to be approaching ‘sharp’ if not quite there yet, though sweet and sour with emphasis on the sour could certainly be used. Day three: (only stoppered and left at about 17°C) and this wine is suddenly delicious; all herbal references have faded to relative insignificance and the fruit has a beguiling, understated sweetness – how did that happen? I don’t know, but I’d buy it again now!
Rebuy – Yes

1997 Robert Arnoux, Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Reignots
The nose starts broad and faintly of dark oak – slowly a pungent, dark, coconut cream begins to fill the glass, only very slowly are the granular, spicy notes one expects of Vosne to be found. In the glass this starts with a silky texture and a slightly bright though smooth acidity – which is the main component through the centre of the wine and into it’s finish. As the wine warms in the glass the finish first pads out with some of the dark flavours that match the nose. Over three hours this wine remains steady as a rock; acid led but not too much, with a freshness and stance that belies the vintage. I would say this is still very-much young and primary, it is certainly excellent in the context of the vintage.
Rebuy – Yes

Another from Alain Michelot and frankly, just as good as the first!

2009 Alain Michelot, Nuits St.Georges 1er Les Champs Perdrix
The nose is quite different to what I remember of the Chaignots – different vines so a good thing – certainly higher toned though perhaps a little more diffuse because of that. This is quite full, with plenty of tannin – yet the fruit comes through very well indeed – super-engaging personality. I think this excellent.
Rebuy – Yes

Having bought a collection of old Bourées at auction, I have the following batting average:
1966 Nuits St. Georges – excellent
1983 Charmes-Chambertin – disappointing
1972 Gevrey-Chambertin – too balsamic
1978 Monthelie – a remarkable curate’s egg:

1978 Pierre Bourée, Monthelie
The cork comes out in one piece – no mean feet in these older Bourées – the bottle glass has a blue shade to it; clearly a bit unscientific but I’ve never yet had an off wine from a blue-shade bottle! Very good, relatively young colour. The nose? Well it’s rather particular; in-fact blind this is a 2004 with at least a 6/10 ‘score’ for pyrazines. Underneath is a pretty depth of still croquant, sugared strawberry fruit with the faintest suggestion of stems – as an occasional bottle, I’m quite happy to put this in my mouth! There is weight and sweetness to the red fruit with fine if understated acidity – overall a very smooth ride. There is some taste from the pyrazines – mainly in the mid palate before the flavour slowly decays in the finish. I have to say, pyrazines aside this is quite some wine – for those with low sensitivity I expect they would absolutely love this bottle – certainly I find it interesting and still drinkable: Indeed quite a remarkable bottle.
Rebuy – No Chance

Saving your 2004s?
If so, for what reason?
The pyrazine note of this Monthelie is as clear as a bell, and also as fresh as any 6 month, or now six year-old, 2004. I can no-longer grope at straws by expressing the wish/sentiment/dream that pyrazines fade with time; research already indicated that pyrazines are stable and here is a 33 year-old which seems to amply confirm that data. It really doesn’t matter what the source of this aroma and flavour is, in character it is essentially identical to that exhibited by 2004s. I sold half my 2004s around this time last year – I think I may have kept too many…

2007 Guillot-Broux, Macon-Cruzille Les Genièvrières
The nose has slightly more than ample brioche notes, eventually the notes go deeper and sweeter improving complexity though not at the expense of impact. Large-scaled flavours, where, to start with, the acidity plays a subtle supporting role – still there is tons of creamy complexity in the mid-palate and finish. This is a wine that transitions from impressive to VERY impressive once it is paired with food; the acidity now seems more supportive and the fruit has a clear sucrosity. Very very impressive despite somehow retaining a Maçon character.
Rebuy – Yes