Yes, I know, they aren’t going to last very long are they…(?)
2010 Louis Chenu Père et Filles, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Aux Clous
Just as good as the last one.
Rebuy – Yes
I have the impression that this is exactly the sort of unpretentious but tasty wine of which Frank J. Prial would have approved…
Here’s a wine I’ve tried on-and-off since it was released – last time was mid-2010. I’ve previously noted a faint pyrazine so it’s good to revist to see what’s happening. Actually, forgetting (for a moment) the vintage, I often consider this to be JMF’s goto ‘value-cuvée’ – despite him living in Gevrey! Perhaps it’s now too late for this particular vintage as this wine was much more palatable last time…
2004 Fourrier, Chambolle-Musigny VV
I really do think that there’s sometimes a little pyrazine here – auto-suggestion or real? I don’t know, it’s anyway not consistently there – but fortunately (if/when I spot it) it is on a subtle ‘additive’ level (say 1 from 10, maximum), and nothing to ‘sniff’ at! There’s mainly a darker aroma with just the faintest edge of savoury leaf aroma though eventually there is even a little acid-redcurrant, which is very nice. In the mouth this has concentration, width and a good level of acidity – the tannins are a little sticky and bitter. To ‘augment’ the bitter finishing flavours the acidity here is a little sharp. I think the loss of its lush and sweet young fruit has certainly compromised it for (enjoyable) current drinking.
Rebuy – No
Published by UCP.
Buy from Amazon (eBook also available).
I’ve read the 250 pages of ‘Authentic Wine’ on and off, for about the last couple of months – and I’m so happy I did. NB, that’s 250 pages in a relatively small font – so it could easily have been 400 pages in a different format – this is, after-all, no pocket-sized book, weighing-in at somewhere between A4 and A5 size.
I assume that writing a book such as this is far from straight-forward, not from a content perspective, but rather because there were two authors – Jamie Goode and Sam Harrop – and I’m really left wondering how they put together such a seamless piece of work. I have to assume that they have different writing styles and that their thoughts didn’t always dovetail, hence, I would have expected the text to have occasional ‘clunks’, but the introduction excepted, far from it. The introduction sets out what to expect from the book and also sets forth the various starting points for the authors – I actually found that text less easy to read and for a while wondered what I’d taken on, but this section only lasts for about 8 pages, and it is pretty-much an essential baseline for what follows, i.e. that the divisive term ‘natural wines’ is to be avoided, and that:
“by coining the term authentic wine, we aim to differentiate between wines that are headed in the direction of homogenization, and wines whose origins have their roots in terroir, which are made from appropriately right fruit, free from faults, and made sustainably.”
Summary
This book is a treasure-trove of interesting information – much of it technical – and even as a chemist, there were some passages that I needed to read two or three times to make sure I was following, I can’t realistically comment on how it reads for somebody with no technical basics, but I’ve finally found a text that cements my understanding of the role of SO2 and equilibrium between free and bound sulfur (discussions) – I can almost say the same for the chapter on yeasts, despite the potatos analogy 😉
Actually, I think it’s almost worth buying the book only for the three pages written by Ted Lemon (Littorai Wines) to listen to the thought-processes behind his winemaking philosophy. Interestingly the book finishes with sections on the carbon footprint of wine and the marketing of (authentic) wine – here the authors change tack, choosing to make comment and recommendations in many areas, their-own value judgments contrasting to the more explanatory earlier chapters. I’m not sure it actually sits that well with the rest of the content, but if authors cannot use such a rostrum, then who(?) It is a book I heartily recommend, not just for those with a horse/dog/vine in this race, but for anyone who wants to know just a little more…
A few quotes, observations and talking points form the book:
“…and while the makers of agrochemicals are clearly motivated by profit, it would be wrong to cast all agribusiness as an evil empire plotting to conspire against the earth.”
Amen! The ‘chemicals are unclean’ mantra has become too much of a fetish. The agrobusiness as essentially about keeping the global population alive by feeding people – yields are king – vines are something quite apart.
“Chilean producer Cono Sur, part of the large Concha y Toro group, has moved a significant portion of its vineyards to certified organic status. Currently it has 266 hectares of certified organic vineyards…”
“…the biodynamic grower won’t always get a polite response, but what we are increasingly seeing is that while initially the presence of biodynamic vineyards may arouse contempt or suspicion, in time it is the conventional growers are reaching out and asking questions…”
But how long is ‘in time’? A far from untypical experience for biodynamic growers in Burgundy can be outright aggression: “You are the one that has contaminated my vines with rot and cut my income – what are you going to do about it?” Some of the aggressors take solace in sabotaging the equipment of biodynamic domaines – almost inverse Luddites! It will be a long road as exemplified by the next quote (even if it is at odds with the Cono Sur example)…
“Although many practitioners may disagree, organic and biodynamic farming will likely remain the preserve of relatively small, high-end wineries.”
“Because vines are highly disease susceptible, in the EU grapes account for 3 percent of all cropland but are responsible for 15 percent of synthetic pesticide applications.” (!)
(Elevage:) “At one extreme, exposing wine to too much oxygen simply results in oxidation. At the other extreme, total exclusion of oxygen slows the development process of wine; what is more, it alters the pattern of the wine’s evolution. A different destination will be reached.”
“Dr. Elizabeth Waters and her colleagues have found that hydrogen sulphur is in some cases generated in the…”
Above, the only typo I spotted…
Table 12.1 (p230) tries to come up with a numerical value for the carbon footprint of bottle closures. ‘Natural’ (or should that be authentic ;-)) cork certainly looks to come out the best, but I have a feeling that if you were to factor-in losses due to TCA, i.e. not just the loss of the cork, but the capsule, bottle and wine, the position of DIAM might become much more attractive…
2008 Prince Florent de Merode, Corton Clos du Roi
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose has a little rhubarb and a faint orange character – not exactly ‘comely’ though I suppose it reflects quite a few from the vintage. Eventually there is a dense red fruit aroma. Intense, very decent concentration – even for a GC – very good but far from over-done acidity. Understated tannin and the flavour is rather good, certainly considering the expectations set by the first aromas. Actually this is a wine I’d happily drink again – I’m not sure I’d buy a lot more at the price of many Grand Crus, but this wine was always something of a bargain…!
Rebuy – Yes
Talking of value…
Okay (I hear you cheer) the last Brunelle for a bit…
2006 Joseph Roty, Gevrey-Chambertin Cuvée La Brunelle
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose is interesting; dark and hinting at the leafiness that may eventually come, slowly softening to show a fainter red fruit – acid cherry is the last note. The wine starts with a slightly brusque Gevrey impression before softening with air, there’s fine acidity that peaks in the mid-palate with (again) a nice creamy aspect to the fruit. I have the impression that it has lost its fat, but the concentration is quite enough to offset. Nice, the oak is but a memory at this age…
Rebuy – Yes
After the (frankly!) bizarre 2009, confidence is restored by this 2008. I remain committed to that 2009, even if that committment is largely the 5 remaining bottles in the cellar!
2008 Joseph Roty, Gevrey-Chambertin Cuvée La Brunelle
Medium, medium-plus colour. As anticipated there’s a dark undertow to the nose, an oaky undertow, but it is relatively subtle. The fruit smells sweet, a litle high-toned, and is coupled to an interesting peppery note, plus, if you wait long enough there’s a beautiful, almost haunting, redcurrant note too. In the mouth this has nice freshness – it’s also a universe away from the tart acidity of some 08s. There is a little tannin which feels predominantly oak tannin rather than grape-derived; that tannin brings a bitter-chocolate quality to the finish – which sits well with the subtle creamy dimension of the fruit. Overall, I think the oak is blurring some of the wine’s clarity / definition, bringing something of a soft-focus, but this oak will fade, and what lies below is very tasty and very interesting indeed.
Rebuy – Yes
I finally got out from storage a few vintages of this wine, and what better than to start with the 09 before moving onto older ones(?) What a mistake! I’ve been following the development of this wine over the last two nights – the main reason being that I couldn’t drink a whole glass on the first night!
2009 Joseph Roty, Gevrey-Chambertin Cuvée La Brunelle
Medium, medium-plus colour. What can I say about the nose? Coffee/mocha, cola, a hint of spritz – I’m not sure that I dare put it in my mouth. I did – mistake! Round, a little fat, no definition, more mocha and cola flavours – where’s the acidity? – omg! Glass not finished. Day two (in the fridge overnight): less perverse in all dimensions – I actually managed a second glass – but no more…
Rebuy – No
A wine that’s not for touching, only for forgetting in the cellar for a while – one day (maybe) it may taste like Burgundy, perhaps even Gevrey!
Can’t wait to pop a 2008……….
2007 Prince Florent de Merode, Corton Clos du Roi
Medium colour. The nose is a little estery though smooth and red too. In the mouth the fruit is not bad, but it’s quite high-toned to match the estery nose – nice ripeness though and understated tannin too for a Corton. The acidity is fine enough – understated but silky. A wine that is a bit of a curate’s egg; a little estery but it has a comfy texture and decent balance too. Perhaps not a bottle for the long-term(?) but it’s tasty enough today – that said, I’ve the impression that this is more of a good premier cru level wine.
Rebuy – Maybe
2007 Mugneret-Gibourg, Bourgogne
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose starts a little disappointing with a note that has me recalling paint – it takes a while to fade, leaving quite an understated and slightly nonedescript red cherry – a long wait brings a little more focus. The flavour has the focus with decent acid cherry flavour, limited depth but the balance and overall impression is quite positive.
Rebuy – Maybe
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