Here’s a wine I’ve tried on-and-off since it was released – last time was mid-2010. I’ve previously noted a faint pyrazine so it’s good to revist to see what’s happening. Actually, forgetting (for a moment) the vintage, I often consider this to be JMF’s goto ‘value-cuvée’ – despite him living in Gevrey! Perhaps it’s now too late for this particular vintage as this wine was much more palatable last time…
2004 Fourrier, Chambolle-Musigny VV
I really do think that there’s sometimes a little pyrazine here – auto-suggestion or real? I don’t know, it’s anyway not consistently there – but fortunately (if/when I spot it) it is on a subtle ‘additive’ level (say 1 from 10, maximum), and nothing to ‘sniff’ at! There’s mainly a darker aroma with just the faintest edge of savoury leaf aroma though eventually there is even a little acid-redcurrant, which is very nice. In the mouth this has concentration, width and a good level of acidity – the tannins are a little sticky and bitter. To ‘augment’ the bitter finishing flavours the acidity here is a little sharp. I think the loss of its lush and sweet young fruit has certainly compromised it for (enjoyable) current drinking.
Rebuy – No
There are 2 responses to “fourrier’s 2004 chambolle-musigny vv”
Very interesting, the evolution of modern day Fourrier wines. In my experience, after their rather untypical youthful opulence(the 01s were like fortified cherry juice across the board at one point) they close very late and reemerge as much more typical of their vineyards. I think this explains most of the trouble with 01s and probably the quiet showing of this wine too. A formerly dull and tiring Chambolle Gruenchers 00 was quite glorious and entirely classic last week.
Let’s see Tom. There is plenty of ‘innate’ density to this wine, suggesting it can continue to nourish itself, but I wasn’t happy with the acidity – there wasn’t any ‘deliciousness’ to temper it – I eventually poured away the last 1/3rd of a bottle on day 2, and I bet that doesn’t happen more than once or twice per year in my house! That could have been an isolated bottle though – it’s always possible.
I suppose I still have the equivalent of nearly 3 mixed cases from this domaine, even if everything older than 99 is now gone, but given the ‘market interest’ in this producer, I’m not expecting to augment that further, so I won’t get to study the aging curves in minute detail 😉
I’m the same-it’s difficult to persuade oneself to carry on buying these wines when one is used to paying so little, though they certainly deserve their success. It’s been a while since I’ve had an 04 but there are certainly some here so I may attempt to dig one out just for fun. The Morey was the equivalent of £11 a bottle just a few short years ago.