chablis – looking up and looking down

By billn on August 17, 2015 #travels in burgundy 2015

I know I’ve been a bit Côte de Beaune focused the last days/posts, so I thought that today I’d make a change – we went to Chablis instead!

Actually the weather (as you can see) was very nice – about 25°C and better than darker, showery Beaune. Lunch at Au Fils du Zinc and Raveneau’s 2010 Les Clos for a mere €62 Euros!!! It’s unobtainable elsewhere at double that price – très yum, of-course!

Chablis – looking up!

Chablis – looking down!

and today in the afternoon – saint romain

By billn on August 16, 2015 #travels in burgundy 2015

More cloud on Sunday afternoon and a mere 16°C in the Hautes Côtes – it snowed in Switzerland today – just a few spots of rain here. Still, Saint Romain (Haut) is a lovely walk with epic views and super houses – a bit too far from the co-op to think of buying a place though 😉

a little walk around ladoix today

By billn on August 15, 2015 #travels in burgundy 2015#vintage 2015

Well, nobody else was doing it!

It’s been a pretty rainy week – there was a little this morning too, but mostly just cloud after about 10h00. Indeed we’ve had more than 60mm in the last week, which is such a contrast to basically nothing in July! It’s been hard for the young vines – you can see some with yellowing leaves, but nothing (yet!) like the vines stripped of leaves that we saw in 2003 when in certain vineyards the roots couldn’t go deep enough to slake their thirst – Beaune Clos du Roi springs readily to mind.

May 2015 started cool and wet and ended up almost 30°C. June had 2-3 days of heavy rain, July, depending on where you were in the Côtes had 1mm to 10mm – but only on the one day. The vineyards largely looked in super condition before this August rain, despite the dry weather, but the recent rain has eased vigneron’s concerns considerably.

As you can see (below) veraison is not yet finished in this part of the Côte de Beaune – we have potential alcohols of about 8-9% at the moment. So-far in August, despite the odd spike approaching 40°C it’s been relatively cool versus July. As veraison is not yet, or only just, finished and the weather is now more changeable, it’s still much too early to conclude anything meaningful on the character of the wines that will come – but in about 3 weeks we’ll be harvesting and all will become clearer. So-far, and as you can see, the berry size is rather small – like 2010 or less – and the sanitary conditions look very clean indeed. Let’s see how the weather progresses and whether it will stay this way, or if the grapes will get the chance to suck up a little water…

laurent ponsot’s new ‘shop’ in beaune…

By billn on August 14, 2015 #the market

WP_20150814_20_27_40_Pro

I thought this might be of interest to anyone in Beaune/Burgundy/France – it’s (to my knowledge) Laurent Ponsot’s’ first official ‘outlet.’

Attached to the Hotel de Beaune and the Bistro de l’Hôtel is a wine-shop – largely unremarkable in its first 18 months or-so – save for its artwork! They have now upped their game. A range of 1er and GC wines are now available from Laurent Ponsot – and he sets the prices, not the shop. They are not cheap, but in the context of older wines, ex-cellars, there’s no obvious gouging here, and you can even buy his Clos St.Denis TVV on its own – there are cases of different vintages! I saw 1ers from 1997 and 1998 that were about €70. Grand Crus from a range of vintages were €250-350(+) plus some in magnum format too.

This wine shop is also now the only place in Beaune where you can buy the wines from Olivier Bernstein – another recent ‘acquisition’ – they are très expensive, but having recently visited Olivier (May Report), I can almost see the value in Bernstein’s Chambolle 1er 2012 for €120…

The wines of Charles van Canneyt are available too – yet another new offering, and one that’s definitely on my list of producers to visit.

So an impressive selection – some are ridiculously priced like those below (one tenth would still be too much outside of a restaurant), but there are plenty of 1990/1993 wines from the likes of de Montille and d’Angerville that seem relative bargains, for touristy Beaune, at ~€300…

myth-busting pinot noir?

By billn on August 13, 2015 #about

Myth-busting?

Not exactly so – it’s not just passtoutgrains – or Côteaux Bourguignone that can contain gamay or others. There is a tolerated amount of non-pinot in very many vineyards, even from very covetable labels. It’s really not that uncommon for red wines also to contain grapes of pinot blanc, pinot gris or chardonnay – but practically the percentage is very small, probably less than 1%.

interesting: mugnier and musigny…

By billn on August 12, 2015 #the market

Now isn’t this interesting.
mugnier-musigny
  Pic stolen from a Facebook post…

I have to say that I never really thought of Freddy Mugnier and Château Latour as bed-fellows, though I do understand the ‘stance’ and knowing FM, I’m sure it has nothing to do with the money. But my question is, ‘what does several years mean?’ Even through a ‘cell phone’ baby Musigny is indisputably more fabulous than 99.9% of all other similar age burgundies. Clearly it is a very different experience to drinking a wine at 20-25(+) years-old, but relevant and something that it would be a shame to miss – all in my opinion of-course.

I actually believe that most of the ‘wasted’ bottles are those drunk between 3 and 10 years-old, depending on the vintage, when they are adolescent, angular or tight. So I really hope that Frederic doesn’t mean seven when he writes several.

An additional ‘issue’ suggests itself; if the source of ‘new’ Musigny dries up for ‘several years’ won’t people be pushed to drink even more adolescent wine?

noteworthy in the last days…

By billn on August 10, 2015 #other sites

  • Not the Hosemaster’s finest hour, but Riedel’s action was a ‘PR disaster’ – as a result, I’ll happily revert to Zaltos!
    https://twitter.com/guyawoodward/status/630006263770955776
  • Some semblance of wine chemistry…
  • A longer watch, but interesting nonetheless…

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