2006 jean-marc bouley beaune 1er les reversées

Jean-Marc Bouley 2006 Beaune 1er Les Reversées

Jean-Marc Bouley 2006 Beaune 1er Les Reversées

I ‘know’ the name of this producer, but I’ve no idea of the context of that knowledge as I’ve no wines from the domaine in my cellar – time to start learning I suppose…

2006 Jean-Marc Bouley, Beaune 1er Les Reversées
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose starts with a waft of dark and slightly toasty oak – it’s there in the depth too – I suspect that this may not lift. I was wrong, already within 15 minutes virtually all traces of dark oak are consigned to history, what replaces it is beautiful, slightly creamy red fruit – from heights to depths it’s lovely. The palate is, relative to the nose, ‘merely’ good. There is slightly forward acidity coupled to red cherry-fruit that leaves me with the impression that it could have done with half a degree more ripeness – that said it makes for an interesting and ‘edgy’ personality. This reminds me a little of some 2001s in their youth – no bad thing that. I enjoyed it, but can’t decide whether it would be better to drink now or wait 7-10 years. On reflection I would wait – there are other wines that offer a rounder performance today.
Rebuy – Yes

bert visits a-c leflaive

Anne-Claude Leflaive with Bert

2009 Summer Burgundy Report


The Summer 2009 Burgundy Report is now available.
Enjoy and have a nice weekend…


The occasional thing may seem a bit ‘flakey’ around here and maybe for the next few days as I (piece-by-piece) update the site’s structure.

A slightly different design which currently looks okay in internet explorer (7) but is less than perfect in Firefox, I expect it will be about 2 weeks before everything is bedded in. Unlike me, this is much cleverer under the surface! Hopefully it doesn’t break too often!

PS – did I mention the Summer Burgundy Report will go live sometime this evening…(?)

2006 christian clerget chambolle-musigny

2006 Christian Clerget, Chambolle-Musigny

2006 Christian Clerget, Chambolle-Musigny

I’ve always considered Christian Clerget an up and down performer. I’ve had great bottles of his Chambolle 1er Charmes and his villages Chambolle too, but equally I’ve had dreary bottles of both. Lert’s see how this stacks up:

2006 Christian Clerget, Chambolle-Musigny try to find this wine...
Medium, medium-plus colour, yet relatively deep for a villages Chambolle. Soft, but well-defined red fruit over a denser base – there’s a faint caramel edge that disappears as the wine warms in glass, some focus is also lost. Interesting; there’s a dense, concentrated, rather extracted core to the wine which has the merest trace of bitterness that makes the acidity seem a little bright – yet is mineral too. There is good texture from very faintly astringent but finely grained tannin. Relatively long finishing with an extra depth an dimension that normally indicates 1er cru juice. It’s not yet perfectly balanced, but it has plenty of character – keep it cool and it’s a winner!
Rebuy – Yes

2006 alain jeanniard gevrey-chambertin

2006 Alain Jeanniard, Gebrey-Chambertin

2006 Alain Jeanniard, Gevrey-Chambertin

2006 Alain Jeanniard, Gevrey-Chambertin try to find this wine...
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose and indeed the flavours show some reduction so I made a quick double-decant, within 10 minutes all was fixed. Not so obviously Gevrey, but there’s nice red cherry with some darker fruit and savoury hints – eventually a lovely redcurrant impression. Balanced acidity and decent depth of flavour. There is some tannin that’s accented with a faint astringency and a decent length. It’s tasty, so if you get a good price it’s worth buying, but their 06 Morey VV is on a higher level.
Rebuy – Yes

lvmh: -41% profit for wine and spirits

lvmh_1Comparing the first half of 2008 with the same period this year, we can at least deduce that people are not drowning their economic worries in Hennessy, Krug, Moët or Yquem. Apparently LVMH say that their profits increased “tangibly” in the markets where they control their own distribution, such as ‘owned’ shops like Louis Vuitton:

“The brands distributed by third parties, on the other hand, suffered a massive destocking impact by these (external) distributors. This is notably the case for the Wines & Spirits and Watches & Jewelry business groups.”

Interesting; so that means that non LVMH companies are tightening their belts in what some would describe as prudent management but LVMH companies are not. Does that mean that in the opinion of LVMH, punters are having to queue for Moët because retailer’s inventory is too low?

a heavy weekend… (2)

Weekend wines.

Weekend wines.

2001 Truffière (Vincent Girardin), Puligny-Montrachet 1er Les Caillerets try to find this wine...
Medium gold. The nose majors on a residue of toasty oak and fainter gun-flint aromas. The bottle lasted under an hour, but was actually becoming less interesting with time. After the younger wines of the previous day, this is significantly more mineral and wiry framed. Good acidity and density, yet the flavours do reflect the aromas. Complex for sure but I never really warmed to it – that’s a pure style judgement, so whilst I wouldn’t buy it again for me, I certainly wouldn’t tell you not to.
Rebuy – Maybe
2006 Nicolas Potel, Criots Bâtard-Montrachet try to find this wine...
The best young white I tasted last year, indeed in the last couple of years – expecations were positioned! Pale yellow. The aromas are very tight – the wine was too ambitiously cooled given the 30° temperatures. Some fat, but balanced and with a width on the mid-palate and finishing length that was on another level to the Caillerets – yet disappointing. Okay, if it’s too cold, I’ll encourage it to warm and open by decanting. As it warmed it put on weight, but no sign of the palate staining flavours of last year. Eventually a faint but unmistakable note appeared on the nose – cork. We actually drank it all, as it was still a better wine than the Caillerets, but what should have been a resounding bottle was merely a sombre one – bugger!
2000 Mont du Toit, Le Sommet try to find this wine...
Coastal (Wellington) region of South Africa – from a wax-topped magnum – a blend of cabernets, merlot and shiraz. A winery we visited in 2002. Heavy dark colour, equally deep but far from heavy fruit – liqueur-esque. Smooth but still with a lick of tannin. Drained to the last drop by the crew…
Rebuy – Yes

“sour grapes”

the billionaire's vinegar
Remember this? That was June 2008. Well now we have the following:

Wine buff sues after being accused of a vintage rip-off
Among wine connoisseurs, Michael Broadbent reigns supreme. The 6ft tall, pinstriped oenophile, who launched the peerless Christie’s wine department in 1966, has spent a lifetime travelling the world tasting fine vintages, keeping notes of every one he has sipped, and writing the definitive wine handbook.
But at the age of 82, his famously sensitive nose is wrinkling not at an unwelcome bouquet – but at assertions in a new book that accuse him of being involved in a notorious wine fraud.

Well the pinstriped 82 year-old has taken more than a year to decide this course of action – I’d say that’s unacceptable…

[EDIT]:Well, with a 12-month (public) wall of silence, it appears to everyone that the pinstriped 82 year-old has taken more than a year to decide this course of action – I’d say that’s unacceptable…

From Bartholomew Broadbent’s comment to this diary entry, that clearly was not the case, but I remain critical; I’m not saying I would have recommended Max Clifford, but it’s a PR gaffe for sure. 12 months of silence indicates to all and sundry (i.e. not just me) acceptance if not agreement with what is written.

[EDIT 21-Aug-2009] Mike Steinberger also points to the lost cause

a heavy weekend…

2x 2006 Clos de la Roche

2x 2006 Clos de la Roche

I shouldn’t really call a weekend with dear friends ‘heavy’ I suppose, that said, I (the four of us actually) managed to empty the equivalent of 9 bottles in 2 evenings. I think there was some beer too, but I expect that that doesn’t count! Generally the wines were pretty good, but one fell to the curse of the cork and as elaborated by Murphy, it was the most anticipated bottle.
1997 Raymond Boulard, Champagne Millesime try to find this wine...
Hand-carried from the domaine from (sadly) my only visit in early 2002, also the last of these 97s. Full but balanced with a very nice (to me) baked apple flavour.
Rebuy – Yes
2006 Mischief and Mayhem, Puligny-Montrachet try to find this wine...
Seems a little fatter and less crisp than last time out – countered by being served a little too cool. Beautiful Puligny aromas and plenty of flavour – good length too. Very tasty, and devoured in about 20-25 minutes by the thirsty four!
Rebuy – Yes
2005 Mischief and Mayhem, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Champs Gains try to find this wine...
The forward oaky notes of its youth are now more considered and savoury. A little better balanced and more mineral than the 06 villages. Way more dimension in the mid-palate and a great finish
Rebuy – Yes
2006 Lignier-Michelot, Clos de la Roche try to find this wine...
2006 L et A Lignier, Clos de la Roche try to find this wine...
A side-by-side comparison – neither holds all the aces. The L et A Lignier, though offering slightly less colour, is a clear winner in the aroma department – just a gorgeous expression of complex fruit – the Lignier-Michelot is good, but really can’t compete. Over the tongue, mirroring the extra colour, the Lignier-Michelot is a little more extracted and offers more ‘up-front’ oomph, from there-on it’s a long slow diminuendo. The L et A offers a different recipe; narrower on entry, bursting with mid-plate dimension and shows more length. No bad wines here, each offers a balanced performance and I’d certainly buy both again, but the relative proportions today would clearly be in favour of Lucie and Auguste’s bottle.
Rebuy – Yes

More bottles tomorrow…

alain jeanniard 2006 morey st.denis vieilles vignes

2006 Alain Jeanniard, Morey St.Denis Vieilles Vignes

2006 Alain Jeanniard, Morey St.Denis Vieilles Vignes

I’ve not had many from this domaine which is sited just towards the top of the village on the (vineyard) road into Clos St.Denis, finally I picked up a couple of bottles.

2006 Alain Jeanniard, Morey St.Denis Vieilles Vignes try to find this wine...
Medium, medium-plus colour. Lovely depth and Morey character to the nose – nice red fruit with a real density to back it up – very nice indeed. On the tongue it seems not the ultimate in concentration, but there’s excellent darker fruit with that creamy old-vine impression. The acidity and tannin are slightly forward, but they only serve to cement the long mineral-infused finish – again with an impression of cream – excellent stuff, I’m looking forward to trying one of the domaine’s 1er crus.
Rebuy – Yes

TONG – a wine magazine

tongTONG – note, that this was a promotional copy, so I’m honour-bound to say nice things – right? Yeah-right, just like here 😉

It’s worth pointing out, that I’m drawn to things that have been ‘designed’, or perhaps I should say that I’m drawn to things that have not just been made to look good but where people have clearly spent their time on attention to detail. Right from the point I open my letter-box this publication is hitting my design ‘g-spot’ (actually in the sunshine it was blinding me!):

Robust, space-material envelope – cool!

My benchmark wine publication is the ‘World of Fine Wine’ magazine which invariably was 30%+ parting with it’s cheap envelope by the time it reached my letter-box – in this respect WOFW is not a very good benchmark. Hmmm, but taking a more modatorial step back; is this very environmentally friendly? I await a note telling me that metallised, reclaimed, supermarket plastic bags use 30% less CO2 than recycled paper…

Slicing my letter opener through the space-material – and you need a sharp one for this job, hmmm (again), maybe it’s also self-sharpening my letter opener, then the envelope would class as dual use, how do you calculate the CO2 burden now? – out slides Issue #2 of TONG (looks better capitalised!). The publisher is now reeling me in with the high-quality matt paper-stock, typography, white-space and overall design – frankly I don’t care about the words to start with, though I notice on the inside cover “This magazine carries no advertising” – wow! – not only is that rather cool, it’s somewhat radical; either the publisher is of independent means or is barking mad. I read also that the design of each issue will be different:

Q: What makes Tong different from Wine Spectator or Decanter, for instance?
There’s a playful, organic, almost biological concept behind the magazine. Everything is linked, from the paper and the font to the photographs. The paper we used for the launch issue on Sauvignon Blanc, for instance, is smooth and hard, but for the issue on terroir, I’m using a grainier, thicker paper. Each magazine must be a print version of the wine variety.
Excerpt from Wall Street Journal

Now I realise that the publisher is of independent means AND is barking mad! Did I mention that this magazine is €28 per copy, or €100 for the 4 quarterly issues? No? Then perhaps it’s time to look at what it delivers on an intellectual rather than purely aesthetic level.

This is already Issue #2, titled “Terroir”, issue #1 was titled “Sauvignon Blanc” – I’ll leave you to work out what that was about. There are a mere 48 pages – of-course with this paper-stock, they are thick pages – and 21 of those pages are pictures or title pages for the next article! I must say though, it’s more than a mere pamphlet; if there were the normal adverts/classifieds etc., then perhaps this would be a 60-70 page publication and no-one would blink an eye. Back to the content – ‘Terroir’ – and it’s not a bad list of contributors; Kees van Leewen, Claude & Lydia Bourguignon, Serge Wolikow and Olivier Jacquet, Olivier Humbrecht, Alex Martin and John Watling and finally, Brian Croser. Those contributors are set against a contrary/realist (delete as appropriate) editorial from the publisher Filip Verheyden titled ‘Terroir Terrorism’, let battle commence…

Actually I’m not going to tell you what they wrote, rather I will say that some content is self-evident, some annoying, some is ‘new’, and I do like the long list of source material that follows most of the articles. The articles are well enough written given non-English mother tongue of most contributors, more importantly the words are written by people with a deep knowledge of their subject, even if each may have their own ‘angle’ – but that’s the key – it’s not just one writer’s composite view from their own subjective standpoint, it’s a range of views properly represented – in this issue at least.

If I won’t tell you more about the content, I will tell you why I’ve subscribed to this magazine after letting my World of Fine Wine subscription lapse (for the second time); WOFW has great contributors a number of whom I know quite well, it also has some equally great articles, yet it is also a significant ‘establishment advertising vehicle’. Then mix the articles that seem to exist only to pad out the content for more advertising with the articles that simply disappear up their own rear-end and I became bored/frustrated. TONG is stripped down, it is pure content – intense and mineral if you prefer – it fits my inner radical ‘self’ and it’s actually the only wine-related subscription I have today…

I am supporting its first year. Only time will tell if this radical approach can remain viable with a content to match – let’s see.

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