Why Big Red Diary?

what’s best for christmas lunch?

image link: http://www.etsy.com/view_listing.php?listing_id=34447324I continue my search for the best wine combination for the Christmas-day feast.

I’ve tried (over and over) older, medium, young red burgundies, but never found a really good match – it’s that combination of salt, sweet, stuffing, sprouts etc., etc.. This year I tried a magnum of Foillard’s 2006 Morgon Côte du Py, and good as it was, in this setting it was a little too jammy. Do I see the spectre of something from the south-west of france next year…(?)

Anyway a relatively successful set of bottles this year, but will have to try harder for next! ;

An Austrailian fizz – a bit heavy and sweet
2007 Alain Geoffroy, Chablis 1er Beauroy – seems pretty but a little too light after the fizz. Wait, eat and return, and it’s very lovely indeed. At about 25 Swiss francs I will buy some more.
2003 St.Urbans Hof, Piesporter Goldtröpfchen – still a beautiful pale green. This vintage misses the acidic ‘zing’, but is reasonably well balanced.
2006 Foillard, Morgon Côte du Py – pretty, plenty of depth though a little over-sweet with the food. Plenty of sediment in the last glasses.
1995 Josmeyer, Riesling Cuvée l’Exception – my last bottle and now this seems less sweet than before, but depth and minerality with and off-dry personality provide plenty to contemplate if not a wine to drink with the Christmas pud!


some time off…

I am now (Eurotunnel permitting) on holiday, and not back until Jan 6th – so only tumbleweed around here for the next days…
Cheers !!!

2006 faiveley nuits st.georges 1er cru pôrets st.georges

2006 Faiveley, Nuits St.Georges 1er cru Pôrets St.Georges
I’d love to be able to recommend this wine (after all I bought some!) but today is not the day to tell you if it is, or will be, any good. Today it is a complete waste of money – aromatically dumb, narrow on the palate and showing a very limited flavour profile. It is a wine that is a perfect exemplar of the the oft-used descriptor – closed. This is so closed that it’s even rolled down the shutters. For those that are still reading, the texture is silky and the balance is fine, there is even a hint of intensity, but today MIA…
Day two and there’s hint of dark cherry and damson on the nose – wow – careful, I’m almost starting to enjoy it!
Rebuy – Maybe

stylish bordeaux?

I know that this is in the ‘wrong’ place, but I think it cuts rather a dash – don’t you?

2006 gérard mugneret vosne-romanée 1er les suchots

2006 Gérard Mugneret, Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Suchots
Medium-plus colour. Straight away the nose is about depth, dark fruit and a little coffee/mineral mix and an impressive Vosne-style dimension – a great start. In the mouth for the first 20 minutes I can’t drink it, it tastes like salt – no, really like salt! A long pause and a coffee later, I come to it and it’s on a lower level – more an inflection (of salt) in the mid-palate – like a Denis Mortet wine! There is just a lack of smoothness – or better, elegance – to the wine. There is plenty of flavour, some here some there, complexity too, and without overt oak, yet there is cola and and a total lack of integration – this is such a shame, as it smells fantastic. Half is left for day 2: hurrah, not really ‘salty’, a hint of gras and the texture is okay. I’m rather bemused, I’ve never really come across a wine that was too salty before – perhaps something to do with the oak – anyway, this was eventually very nice – but I’d recommend decanting!
Rebuy – Yes

jeunes talents du vin…

s-mNew in:

“The event «Jeunes Talents du Vin» “Wine Young Talents” unveiled the prize winners of Year 2009 on 10th December in Paris. Presided by Philippe Faure-Brac, Best Sommelier in the World, the jury selected 7 “vignerons” from 7 vine growing areas of France.”

Domaine Seguin-Manuel was awarded the « Burgundy » Trophy. Well done Thibaut!

You can click on this link www.lesjeunestalentsduvin.com if you would like to see pictures of the ceremony.

david clark 2005 bourgogne au pelson


2005 David Clark, Bourgogne Au Pelson
From vines between Morey and Chambolle, but on the ‘wrong’ side of the Route Nationale 74. Deep colour. The nose is a brooding affair with faint spice and herb top-notes and a tight concentration of fruit below, eventually a faint milk-chocolate note surfaces. In the mouth this is unexpectedly intense for the appellation, rather tight and narrow in form which allows the acidity to gain the upper-hand – the classic face for many 2005s now. The tannin is a background velvet texture and the fruit is dark and fresh, finishing with a dried cranberry/raisin element. I suspect that this wine would have been absolutely singing a couple of years ago. Today, despite the appellation, this is a wine about future potential – I still find much to enjoy, but such a shame it was my only bottle. I don’t see either Morey or Chambolle in this, but it is anyway very impressive indeed, this clearly has the intensity, structure and balance of a very decent villages!
Rebuy – Yes

cellar sale of la tour d’argent

argentI brought your attention to the auction of part of the cellar from the Tour d’Argent that was held in Paris last week. I myself made some bids on what looked like reasonably priced (and perfect provenance!) 1993s, the estimates were, however, rather under-estimates – the wines made 2.5 to 4x mid-estimate. Needless to say I ended up with no bottles!

Tim Atkin made a visit to La Tour d’Argent and made an interesting report here.

so sad for spinosad…


I only recently saw this on the JF-Mugnier website – it’s a funny old world…

2006 gaston et pierre ravaut ladoix les carrières


2006 Gaston et Pierre Ravaut, Ladoix Les Carrières
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose soars with beautiful raspberry and blackberry notes – it’s a peach – or maybe that’s confusing! There is some sweetness of fruit, nice texture and a significant length, but to be honest after a number of successful vintages in my cellar, this one is rather ‘acid rich’ – and that’s before it loses its puppy fat! The tannin has the faintest astringency, but nothing amiss there. I easily managed to find something to enjoy here, but other bottles will be a challenge in middle years…
Rebuy – No

2 reports: burgundy report’s autumn 2009 & vougeraie’s newsletter #29

vougeraie_29The Autumn 2009 Burgundy Report is finally online. You’ve already seen the ‘Vintage Viewpoint’, but amongst others, there are reports of my walk in the vines of Corton with Aubert de Villaine and Didier Dubois and a review of Clive Coates ‘warts’n’all’ recent book.

Now that’s done I’ve found time to do a little tidying up. This newsletter from Domaine de la Vougeraie has been hanging around in my inbox for a while, but since quite a lot of you downloaded the last issue, I thought you may also like this one…

2004 mischief & mayhem gevrey-chambertin 1er crazy love


With a few (very) good contacts, M&M were able to fashion this blend of two iconic Gevrey 1ers – if you buy some wine from them, they might tell you what’s in the bottle – they probably won’t tell you who they got if from though!

2004 Mischief & Mayhem, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er, Crazy Love
Medium colour. The nose starts very tight, just a little warmth, slowly it develops a heavy floral scent – in-part it’s derived from a little of the vintage character, but on a low and ‘nice’ level. There is some fat, silky texture, high-toned fruit, balance and a very impressive length that shows some licorice. Initially I noticed the ‘character’ more in the flavours than the aromas, but the flavours seemed to clear completely. A lovely wine, and indeed a very serious wine…
Rebuy – Yes

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