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olivier guyot marsannay la montagne 2005

olivier guyot marsannay la montagne 2005

2005 Olivier Guyot, Marsannay La Montagne try to find this wine...
Medium, medium-plus cherry-red colour. Modest higher tones over a tight core of dark fruit, swirling releases a little more spicy, leathery notes. Rather linear but very good fine tannin and slightly forward acidity. The flavour is mainly confined to the mid-palate and finish, but it’s quite intense if slightly metallic tasting, the finish is today average. This gives the impression that it has already tightened for slumber. There’s not that much to see today, I would leave for 5 or 6 years.
Rebuy – Maybe

189 years of age in 3 luncheon bottles

1919 clos blanc de vouget 1957 bonnes mares 1959 echezeaux

From left to right: 1919 Clos Blanc de Vougeot, 1957 Bonnes-Mares, 1959 Echézeaux   

Sometimes opportunities to taste nice wines (maybe I should say exceptional wines) pop-up without expectation. This week I was to taste a fine producer’s 2006 range of Chablis, however, as an aperitif I had the opportunity to drink wine from three other bottles that just happened to be open:
1957 Berry Bros & Rudd, Bonnes-Mares try to find this wine...
Medium colour – both alive and interesting – looked super in the glass. The nose was fecund, with interesting if not all-encompassing depth and slowly became sweeter in the glass. A sweet entry, predominantly resolved tannin and just about middle-weight flavours. Slightly warming in the mid-palate with a length that just went on and on. Wonderful length – if not complexity. Not a phrase I would expect to associate with Bonnes-Mares – even one that was more than 50 years old – but this was rather a charmer.
Rebuy – No Chance
1959 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Echézeaux try to find this wine...
Medium-plus colour, both deeper and younger looking than the Bonnes-Mares. The nose also has much more depth of an obvious oak note. Soft and concentrated with just a slight lift of the acidity. Apparently much more compact in the mid-palate than the Bonnes-Mares but with equal length. This is clearly a ‘younger’ and more powerful wine but just a little less enticing and balanced than the Bonnes-Mares today. Re-reading this sounds harsh, but it was a very good wine indeed that I’d be happy for you to open for me ;-)
Rebuy – Yes
1919 Jules Regnier & Co, Clos Blanc de Vougeot try to find this wine...
Jules Regnier was a Dijon-based merchant, interesting then that there is some mainly illegible text referring to Vosne-Romanée on the label! Medium-pale amber colour. Depth and width to the aromas – mainly that wet wool / lanolin that you get with old whites over a creamy base, occasional meaty elements and a faint volatile lift. It’s intense and super despite the occasional hint of mustiness, but a quick swirl and that dissipates. The leading edge of the acidity has a slight tartness which over time became more obvious. Neither the nose nor the flavours show any oxidative notes – what an achievement! – and the wine offers a wonderful creamy length. You occasionally taste that musty element, but not with every sip. Despite a less than perfect wine, this is a stunning experience in a glass.
Rebuy – No Chance

Nice Lunch!

arlaud vendanges photos (4) le fin…

The last picture selection from Mark:

The first four pictures all coming off Bonnes Mares looking towards Morey:

The last four are the team at the end ! Me bottom right front row in 111 & 112 next to Amy Winehouse look alike Sandrine.
Mark de Morey

more bourgogne, but from the ‘wrong’ leflaive..

The lunch menu offered up a tantalising wine option – Domaine Leflaive Bourgogne Rouge – I never heard of it, clearly it was worth investigating. Of-course when the bottle arrived the mistake was clear, it was actually from Olivier Leflaive. Anyway the bottle was here so why not give it a whirl(?)
2006 Olivier Leflaive, Bourgogne Cuvée Margot try to find this wine...
Medium cherry-red. The nose started red and a little powdery, the powdery edge slowly lifted to reveal simple but nice enough red berry aromas. The palate had reasonable balance, likewise the concentration was not bad for an 06 bourgogne. It’s only a few hours since I drank more than one glass but I can tell you little more. It was okay, but in a forgetful sort of way. Even if it was very cheap I can think of no valid reason to try it again…
Rebuy – No

Here’s an interesting report about what some people carry in their suitcases!

arlaud vendanges photos (3) birthday of serge…

Serge is in the grey hoodie pening the large format bottle and with the cake. Lovely man.

The rest of the party are Herve Arlaud, Romain Arlaud (dark curly hair & plaster cast on wrist) and my domaine resident fellow vendangeurs including Sophie, la belge.
Mark de Morey

arlaud vendanges photos (2)

More photos from Arlaud. These are all from our first day, 27/9, picking Bourgogne Rouge grapes below the RN74. Herve Ar;aud is the grey haired guy in pale polo shirt on the right in No 12.

No 29 has one of the great larger than life characters amingst our crew, local Jean-Pierre Feral, with patron Herve Arlaud – the latter with atypical cigarette. J-PF & HA kept up a continual , ongoing banter about all & sundry even whilst we were in the vines which was the source of much constant amusement (except fully to me as I couldnt understand it unfortunately !!).
Mark de Morey

the other thenard…

A super report on the ‘other’ Baron Thenard here.

arlaud vendanges photos (1)

Photos of cuverie and triage table.

Very impressive new build modern set up – must have cost a bit. 3 or 4 yrs old. The fork lift takes the metal ‘tub’ from under the sorting table and is able to rotate it to tip the grapes into the tanks.

In photo 20 Cyprien Arlaud is facing the camera foreground in the pale beige fleece. Stagiste Peter is in the black vest type T shirt and ‘above’ him is patron, Herve Arlaud – a really great guy.

Typical end of day wind down drink in the ‘refecture’ – the local vendangeurs before going home for the day. The collages on the walls behind are collections of photos of previous vintage vendanges.

The second two photos of 4 here, 16 & 15, are from the 3rd Oct just after we had ‘escaped’ the worst rain of the vendange that afternoon. I’m in the right foreground with green fleece over my waterproofs trying to stay warm – note my damp hair !! Next to me is Georges, one half of the incredible duo of two septagerian (? – seventy + yrs old both) brothers , Georges et Fernand.
Mark de Morey

arlaud vendanges – the reprise!

‘Mark de Morey’ was eventually found – not at the bottom of the destemmer, rather with a full inbox in his Blackberry – de rigeur for pickers this year you know! Trying to fix both that and his cherished camera slowed him down a little, but unbowed, here’s the continuation of his story…

Domaine Arlaud Diary

Monday 29th Sept
My notes, now, several days later, tell me we did Morey Les Blanchards premier cru this morning and afternoon we did Morey Les Milandes premier cru although has been suggested we did the latter yesterday – your writer now confused.com !! By checking the Morey map in Coates latest tome am sure doing ‘Blanchards’ morning was correct – supported by one or two photos taken, including a couple of my fellow vendangeurs (male) pisse dans les vignes ! Recall the grapes looked very healthy indeed – large pendulous, clean looking, bunches from Milandes. Continue reading “arlaud vendanges – the reprise!”

pierre morey 2005 bourgogne pinot noir

This relatively unassuming label delivers everything that the Girardin label promised but absolutely failed to deliver. Clearly there is a vintage difference, but in the final analysis, this tastes like pinot noir, and a very good one too. Aromatically much more interesting than the Foillard of the day before, though the Morgon had the edge in the mouth. Overall the Morgon is a slightly better package for drinking today, but a dead heat from an interest perspective.
2005 Pierre Morey, Bourgogne Pinot Noir try to find this wine...
Medium, medium-plus cherry-red. The nose is deep and heavily scented, darkly fruited, edged with a little cream and with something just a little more floral above – very impressive. The palate is a little more linear than the nose, medium density with good dark fruit, slightly forward acidity and a nice extra dimension in the mid-palate. The reasonably grained tannin is in the background.
Rebuy – Yes

Need some 2006 bourgogne recommendations? Try these.

low price – bourgogne or beaujolais?

2006 girardin bourgogne pinot noir vieilles vignes

The packaging is great. The expectation it sets also; Pinot Noir Les Vieilles Vignes. The price is not exceptional for a bourgogne, in fact at 20 Swiss francs it’s far from cheap. Let’s be clear, this is a nice tasty wine but tastes like Beaujolais not pinot – and not a stunning Beaujolais – a top crus Beaujolais can be cheaper and certainly ‘better’. Incredibly disappointing, the laurels easily sit with the Beaujolais in this case.
2006 Vincent Girardin, Bourgogne Pinot Noir Les Vieilles Vignes try to find this wine...
Medium, medium-plus cherry-red. The nose is fruity, a little gassy and smells like cheap Beaujolais. Sweetly ripe, quite well balanced with a small edge of dissolved gas. Good length. Tastes like Beaujolais. Rock-stable for 2 hours.
Rebuy – No

foillard morgon 2005 cuvée corceletteClearly above I used the term ‘cheap beaujolais’ above as a negative, but that’s a) because cheap beaujolais is usually not so nice, and b) because I was expecting the Girardin wine to taste like pinot noir – come to think of it, not just pinot noir, but pinot noir vieilles vignes!

As a balm, here is a ‘real’ Beaujolais, admittedly costing 4 Swiss francs per bottle more, but it’s a great bottle and the additional investment is amply rewarded!

2005 Foillard, Morgon Cuvée Corcelette try to find this wine...
The table-top is a mess; it looks great, but the red wax capsule is far from user friendly! Medium-plus cherry-red. Wide, faintly spicy, dark-skinned fruit. Quite big in the mouth and very smooth. The acidity creeps up on you because you’re initially engrossed by the sweet fruit, but it sweeps you into a good finish. There’s a fine intensity in the mid-palate. Super wine.
Rebuy – Yes

seguin-manuel 06 savigny 1er lavières

seguin manuel savigny les beaune lavieres

2006 Seguin-Manuel, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er, Les Lavières try to find this wine...
Medium, medium-plus colour. Deep red and black-skinned cherries under faint wood spice, the last drops provide a lovely reccurrant note. Lithe, lovely acidity, ripe fruit and good good mid-palate flavour. The tannin is relatively background. Not the density of a Bouchard Père or Tollot-Beaut Lavières, but this is a lovely middle-weight.
Rebuy – Yes

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