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a few more snowy ones…

You can paste 87-91 together to make a big vista if you like – me, I’ve no time for that! 😉

white wine & white slopes…

A lovely long weekend on the Graubunden slopes. Decent piste conditions, despite them only having about 25% of the normal amount of snow this year – and they have more snow here than many other Swiss ski areas!

Took a couple of magnums for the team to work their way through too. The first was Alex Gambal’s 2002 St.Aubin 1er Dents du Chien. Toasted bread and an altogether perfect midlle-years palate that had plenty of complexity and savouriness, this was singing. Next was Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey’s 2008 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Les Caillerets. Also a little toasted bread on the nose, a line of acidity and linear fruit before opening into the finish with a very, very long cream dimension. For it’s youth a stunner.

Ah to be in Switzerland…

lignier-michelot 2007 chambolle-musigny vieilles-vignes

2007 Lignier-Michelot, Chambolle-Musigny Vieilles-Vignes
Quite deep in colour. The nose starts with some background reduction, but as this blows off, there is a deep and quite dark core of fruit, seemingly dusted with a little cream. Plenty of dark, creamy fruit on the palate too – hmm, also fine length! The acidity is just slightly forward, but not too bad. I’d like to see a little more sweetness, but this seems much better than when first tasted, maybe it’s time to take another look at some of my 07 purchases. Day two and this this better still. Is it a hint too extracted for the vintage? Time will tell…
Rebuy – Yes

nicolas potel 1999 volnay 1er chevret

potel-volnay-chevret-1999

1999 Nicolas Potel, Volnay 1er En Chevret
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose shows a hint of maturity, layers of aroma cover a tighter core of dark fruit – a little Pommard in style – then below are flashed of pure dark fruit. In the mouth, there’s super balance and plenty of intensity from the still-young flavours. I’d say the palate needs another 3 or 4 years to similar maturity to the nose. Lots of complexity here – drunk far too quickly to be honest!
Rebuy – Yes

thinking of benoit germain today…

benoit germain

jc boisset 2006 monts luisants blanc…

Another 2006 white – I’m on a campaign to slowly empty the cellar…

2006 JC Boisset, Morey St.Denis Monts Luisants
Pale yellow. The nose has hints of vanilla and botrytis – neither over-powering but it doesn’t give the impression that the wine will be a whirlwind of energy. As a complete contrast the acidity and, hence, the overall impression this wine delivers is quite ‘2008’; fresh, some minerality but also still a depth of rich, faintly vanilla-inflected flavour. This is a very, very successful wine for the vintage – it’s so good in-fact, I could even be tempted to buy more, even though there was only one barrel! Yum!
Rebuy – Yes

long-depaquit 2006 chablis moutonne…

chablis-moutonne-2006

I’m starting to work my way through my 2006s; finishing off single bottles like this one.

2006 Long-Depaquit, Chablis Grand Cru Moutonne
I really don’t like the smell of this cork – it’s not TCA, it’s not musty either but it has a very strong deep, almost nutty odour. Pale colour. The smell of the cork fortunately doesn’t seem to be on the nose – rather it is a fresh and very mineral aroma. In the mouth there is good balance and again a very mineral impression – unfortunately I can taste something similar to the aroma from the cork. There is intensity but none of the complexity of it’s youth, the style is much more linear. A shame that my last bottle wasn’t allowed to shine – all down to the cork.
Rebuy – No, but probably only because of the cork problem.

in conversation with jean-marie fourrier

A thoroughly absorbing series based on one interview by Brooklynguy – part three now available.

A taster from part 1:

JMF: My dad is one of the least diplomatic men you can meet, and the reputation of the wines suffered because of this. Fourrier wines had been imported to the United States for years, but then in 1986 Robert Parker came to visit my father and he said “You should use 100% new oak on your wines.” My father kicked him out of the cellar and said to him “My job is to make wine, your job is to taste it, not to tell me how to make it.”

BG: That can’t have ended well.

JMF: No, it didn’t. Parker wrote that Fourrier’s is the dirtiest cellar in Burgundy, that the yields are way too high, that the wines are not worth looking at. The reputation suffered and we stopped shipping wines to the US, as no one wanted them.

olivier 2007 bourgogne pinot noir

2008 A&R Olivier, Bourgogne Pinot Noir
Medium colour. The nose has more than a hint of borderline ripe herb and slightly alcoholic top notes but there is red fruit too. On the tongue, the acidity is not too bright, though as the flavour drifts into the finish there is some lip-smacking tartness. The mid-palate flavour-dimension is actually quite nice and below the sour is just enough sweet. This isn’t a wine I’d recommend, but it is quite drinkable.
Rebuy – No

alex gambal 2008 chambolle 1er les charmes

2008 Alex Gambal, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Charmes
Medium-plus colour. From the first pour this is an excellent mix of deep dark blue/black fruit against a mineral background. Hmm, this has a real lithe character, plenty of acidity – though not out of bounds – and no padding whatsoever. There is a whisper of tannin that shows for a second or two at the end of the mid-palate, just before the wine slinks away into the finish. Perhaps slink is not the best adjective as the flavour, understated as it is, lasts very well indead. The fruit is super, if completely linear. This is gives the impression of being ‘slight’ yet at the same time shows plenty of intensity. It is a wine that demands cellar time. The acid-forward character of the vintage is clearly visible here if not overwhelming – at eight to ten years it might be worth checking whether it has filled out at all, but this is a 20+ year wine.
Rebuy – Maybe

joseph voillot 2009 meursault chevalières

2009 Joseph Voillot, Meursault Chevalières
Medium, medium-plus lemon yellow. The nose is round with hints of ginger and fuller base of fruit. Sweetness from ripe fruit and a lovely acidity that lingers, mouth-wateringly into the finish. The ginger on the nose is reflected in a spiced-bread flavour too. Rounder than same domaine’s Meursault Cras – possibly a more classic Meursault too. Anyway – lovely.
Rebuy – Yes

bruno clair 1998 marsannay les longeroies

bruno-clair-marsannay-1998

1998 Bruno Clair, Marsannay Les Longeroies
Medium colour. The aromas plumb a great depth of clean dark fruit and a little forest floor – occasional halves of these are showing VA, but not this full bottle. A narrow entry slowly widens; the tannin is almost all resolved but still delivers a little bitter chocolate in the finish. The acidity is just a hint prominent, but there’s nothing currently to worry about. The fruit has plenty of sweet maturity about it, particularly I like the strong note it holds in the mid-palate. No shame in drinking these now, and to my taste the last bottle about three years ago was better, but like most burgundy there’s no rush!
Rebuy – Yes

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