weekend wines – week 48 2017

Update 10.12.2017(4.12.2017)billn

2015 Daniel Buland, Chiroubles
Ooh – so deep, silky dark fruit – now that’s an invitation! On the palate this is almost syrup texture, wide, supple concentrated wine – enough balancing freshness. Delicious wine – it made a great sauce reduction from the last 3rd of the bottle too!
Rebuy – Yes

Then a big selection of wines ready for Saturday evening – in the end I didn’t open the Meursault Charmes or the Chambertin as there was still St.Aubin and Bourgogne to finish:

First was the magnum Alex Gambal’s 2002 St.Aubin 1er Murgers des Dents du Chien – fine textured and the first two glasses were delicious, fresh and still relatively young wine of fine clarity – later glasses had an occasional suggestion of cork-taint – but the sometimes it’s there, sometimes it’s not variety – very annoying and never definitive, at least not without a second magnum to hand! The second wine was the greatest showing of Pascal Lachaux’s 2004 Clos St.Denis, always delicious despite some previous showings with a trace of pyrazine – this day, this wine was mature and absolutely super – can a 2004 be better? This was joint wine of the night – bravo – and my last from a case of 6. As our menu changed course, then came the magnum of 2010 Camille Giroud Bourgogne Cuvée L this a blend of the lees of all the red cuvées of that vintage – grand crus included – an extra 6 months of settling needed due to those lees. Great texture, you and easy, despite lovely depth of flavour – of-course compared to the Clos St.Denis. We finished with the Marcel Deiss grand cru riesling Altenberg de Bergheim VT from 1994. The cork was glued in and was removed in hundreds of pieces – filtered the wine was fine – fresh, sweet, deliciously complex stuff – great. My last bottle of this wasn’t so great, but this and the Clos St.Denis were easily the wines of the night…

Agree? Disagree? Anything you'd like to add?

There is one response to “weekend wines – week 48 2017”

  1. suvroinhi4th December 2017 at 7:27 pmPermalinkReply

    >occasional suggestion of cork-taint

    As a chemist, it is frustrating that this problem cannot be detected. TCA (trichloro-anisole) is sometimes in very very low quantities, but suppresses our ability to detect fruit odors in wines. How does one detect such low levels of TCA without paying an arm and a leg? I think there is a business opportunity here!
    Newer detection techniques, like gigahertz spectroscopy (evolving right now to detect very low levels of chemical explosives) might be the solution. As of now, it is still very expensive, but one can imagine in the future there will be a handheld device which can detect very low levels of TCA before one drinks out of a bottle.

    • billn4th December 2017 at 8:03 pmPermalinkReply

      I guess that’s a long time into the future – it’s not just about the technical capability, it’s about there being a sufficiently interested market to pay for the various iterations of such a device. And if such a device could be made for a reasonable sum, then it is more likely that cork producers are forced to use them as part of their QC. There are already (relatively) expensive producers of cork that claim to test every single cork and will refund the cost of the wine for any that turn up tainted.

      I expect that miniaturisation of such things is likely B2B not B2C

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