I’ve gotta say, the first one surprised me – call it the triumph of optimism over experience – or is that second marriages?

2005 Jomain, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Les Perrières
Pretty much all the bottles since this one have been oxidised – but directly on pouring this had fine colour – I’m still thankfull that it’s my last!
Hardly more than a medium colour, halfway between yellow and gold. The nose with a little yellow citrus accent to a more waxy width – very fresh – indeed quite young. Lithe, supple, beautifully textured – hmm, this note starts more like a red! – followed by a slow-moving yellow-citrus wave of slowly mouth-watering flavour. Young, balanced, certainly with depth of flavour if slightly modest energy – but that’s often the case in this vintage. I note a few references to oak and cream in my older tasting note – there’s none to find today. Delicious, but given the previous ‘dead’ bottles, I don’t suggest that you go looking for some!
Rebuy No

2007 Comtes Lafon, Volnay 1er Santenots du Milieu
Modest depth of colour but still a relatively young colour. Far from a full or forward nose but this gives the impression of silk and a fine red fruit with just the merest accent of herb. The palate reflects the nose; very silky wine, far from a powerhouse but still with a layered depth to the flavour and a little herb-accent of complexity. Some creaminess rounds out a decent finish. For the vintage this is of modest proportions but is also much finer than the average 2007. Approachable despite its youth. Good, but look to other vintages for great.
Rebuy – Maybe

2016 Long-Depaquit, Chablis Vaudesir
By a stroke of coincidence, the same week that I find and taste this wine in the BIVB’s 2018 ‘Cave Prestige’
Sumptuous aromatic depth, crystallised fruit and minerals. Quite open on the palate with flavour that melts, mouth-wateringly, over the palate. Certainly there’s a modest fat here, but with fine balance and an even finer texture. Bravo! And all for the price of some maison’s village Puligny…
Rebuy – Yes
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2001 Frédéric Esmoinin, Mazy-Chambertin
Something to sooth the palate after that auction in Geneva…
Modest colour and almost a spritzy impression to the aroma on opening. Slowly this relaxes with fresh, modestly floral-inflected red fruits – there’s plenty of energy and depth here – it’s very inviting. The palate starts fresh and a bit lean, but really doesn’t need much air before it starts padding out – fresh, still some tannin and lots of deliciously, mouth-watering flavour and structure combined. This is coming to the cusp of being ready – but not completely. Still delicious and almost the impression of a little old vine creaminess in the finish. I always thought this and the Bèze to be regularly the top two cuvees here – and I’m definitely not disappointed by this… Excellent!
​Rebuy – Yes