weekend wines – week 24 2018


2016 Long-Depaquit, Chablis Vaudesir
By a stroke of coincidence, the same week that I find and taste this wine in the BIVB’s 2018 ‘Cave Prestige’
Sumptuous aromatic depth, crystallised fruit and minerals. Quite open on the palate with flavour that melts, mouth-wateringly, over the palate. Certainly there’s a modest fat here, but with fine balance and an even finer texture. Bravo! And all for the price of some maison’s village Puligny…
Rebuy – Yes

2001 Frédéric Esmoinin, Mazy-Chambertin
Something to sooth the palate after that auction in Geneva…
Modest colour and almost a spritzy impression to the aroma on opening. Slowly this relaxes with fresh, modestly floral-inflected red fruits – there’s plenty of energy and depth here – it’s very inviting. The palate starts fresh and a bit lean, but really doesn’t need much air before it starts padding out – fresh, still some tannin and lots of deliciously, mouth-watering flavour and structure combined. This is coming to the cusp of being ready – but not completely. Still delicious and almost the impression of a little old vine creaminess in the finish. I always thought this and the Bèze to be regularly the top two cuvees here – and I’m definitely not disappointed by this… Excellent!
Rebuy – Yes

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