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varoilles and bruno clair – a bit of pre-christmas training

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Back in Switzerland and given that I’m not tasting 20 wines (plus!) per day, I really do have a thirst for opening things – surely it’s good training for Christmas too 😉

2002 Domaine des Varoilles, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Clos des Varoilles
I though I had this in magnums – but not – it must be the La Romanées in mags – it’s only a question of ‘where?’ Medium, medium-plus colour with just a hint of browning. The nose has a few meaty notes, pepper too over a more guarded red fruit core. Silky, beautiful acidity, and a very fine mid-palate intensity – impressively so. Almost a chewy flavour to finish. Very good wine on the cusp of changing to something much more secondary and interesting. Tasty!
Rebuy – Yes

The last of my stash of 1998s from Bruno. The halves were mainly brett infected in the last couple of years, but this 75cl was fine…

1998 Bruno Clair, Marsannay Longeroies
A healthy medium/plus colour. The nose is a hint cushioned, a hint savoury and shows an occasional flash of good deep red fruit. In the mouth, just a little less sweet than the Varoilles and there’s a suggestion of bitterness about the finishing flavours, yet in isolation this has a little fat, some freshness and no lack of sweetness to the fruit. The finish is a good one that hints toward dry tannin without ever managing to deliver it. Fresh, cool fruit, off-dry. Tasty wine but I have to say it was even tastier 5 years ago!
Rebuy – Yes

3 responses to “varoilles and bruno clair – a bit of pre-christmas training”

  1. Nick Martin

    Nice, the Varoilles and La Romanée seem to have an individuality and alluring richness that his Charmes misses, or maybe the Charmes (05) is just too long?

  2. Nick Martin

    not ‘long’, I meant ‘young’!

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