varoilles and bruno clair – a bit of pre-christmas training

17.12.2015billn

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Back in Switzerland and given that I’m not tasting 20 wines (plus!) per day, I really do have a thirst for opening things – surely it’s good training for Christmas too 😉

2002 Domaine des Varoilles, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Clos des Varoilles
I though I had this in magnums – but not – it must be the La Romanées in mags – it’s only a question of ‘where?’ Medium, medium-plus colour with just a hint of browning. The nose has a few meaty notes, pepper too over a more guarded red fruit core. Silky, beautiful acidity, and a very fine mid-palate intensity – impressively so. Almost a chewy flavour to finish. Very good wine on the cusp of changing to something much more secondary and interesting. Tasty!
Rebuy – Yes

The last of my stash of 1998s from Bruno. The halves were mainly brett infected in the last couple of years, but this 75cl was fine…

1998 Bruno Clair, Marsannay Longeroies
A healthy medium/plus colour. The nose is a hint cushioned, a hint savoury and shows an occasional flash of good deep red fruit. In the mouth, just a little less sweet than the Varoilles and there’s a suggestion of bitterness about the finishing flavours, yet in isolation this has a little fat, some freshness and no lack of sweetness to the fruit. The finish is a good one that hints toward dry tannin without ever managing to deliver it. Fresh, cool fruit, off-dry. Tasty wine but I have to say it was even tastier 5 years ago!
Rebuy – Yes

Agree? Disagree? Anything you'd like to add?

There are 2 responses to “varoilles and bruno clair – a bit of pre-christmas training”

  1. Nick Martin17th December 2015 at 11:38 amPermalinkReply

    Nice, the Varoilles and La Romanée seem to have an individuality and alluring richness that his Charmes misses, or maybe the Charmes (05) is just too long?

    • billn17th December 2015 at 5:08 pmPermalinkReply

      You may be right on the Varoilles parcel of Charmes, Nick. I’ve never been wowed, but the problem with extrapolating from 05s at the moment is that so many are tight or closed. Actually I’ve had the most success recently with GCs from 05, the villages seeming much more closed, but still it’s like the toss of a coin…

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