Plus a few online things to read:
In most respects, initial impressions of this wine were of the Chambolle Charmes ‘plus’ – shame there was some dodgy cork-taint…
2006 Chézeaux/Ponsot, Griotte-Chambertin
The colour is just a little darker. Aromatically I started with some concerns; the cork had a bad, rancid, almost volatile smell to it, some of that showed up as ‘inner mouth perfume’ as Burghound would say – far from perfume though – but fortunately it was only very faint on the nose. Mouth-filling, plenty of very fine tannin and a width of fine red fruit that’s both sweet and lingering. It’s quite a long way from the stunning depth of the 05, but then there is enough of that strange taint that I won’t rate it and would certainly send it back in a restaurant. I didn’t open a second one right away to see if it was better…!
The weather is holding, so now it’s time to get serious. Here are a few early reports:
More to follow…
2006 Chézeaux/Ponsot, Chambolle 1er Les Charmes
A relatively pale young wine – medium cherry-red colour. The nose is quite tight – some depth but little width, only slowly does a little definition and a pure red note start to build, eventually there’s also a floral aspect. Super texture, the tannin slowly builds in the mouth to give a little ripple of grain, astringency and also a little bitterness. Acidity is finely balanced and there is very good intensity to the fruit, fruit that seems to become sweeter with time. Not completely full of ‘charm’ at this stage, but everything is in place – wait at least 5 years before returning.
Rebuy – Yes
This was open at the same time as the 05 Bourée St.Jacques, it’s not as dense or as concentrated but it is a polished grand cru all the same.
2005 Mischief and Mayhem, Corton Bressandes
A deep cherry-red core. Fine, high-toned red fruits and some dried cranberry – very nice indeed. There’s plenty of background tannin but it has fine grain. Good acidity that pushes a creamy depth of fruit very long. This is a very executive Corton and dare I say it, elegant! Not the concentration of many 2005 grand crus, but so what? Lovely wine and a very nice length.
Rebuy – Yes
Even ‘nameplate’ domaines are starting to gird their loins and plan their first pickings – some are already picking. ‘My’ domaine starts on Thursday with Bourgogne Rouge – despite me not arriving until Saturday – they didn’t wait!
The weather is in a dry and bright window that is exactly what’s required to ripen the grapes, the fact that it’s a ‘late’ Autumnal cold outside means that rot is less rampant than previous years – of-course there’s time yet for anything to happen, but that northerly wind is exactly what the doctor ordered to help concentrate the grapes – much like 2002. Many grapes are anyway in need of picking – it’s already 105 days + since flowering. If the forecast turns bad, you will not be able to see the vines for people with secateurs!
I’m agnostic until I see the grapes (of-course), but I’m actually quite excited from a distance; that’s because I believe that pinot noir needs the highs and lows of temperature to bring out its full complexity – I’m just not sure if we had enough highs this year 😉
Once a pastry cook in Vesoul, Dominique Laurent admitted her passion for wine in 1987, and set up as a wine merchant in Nuits-Saint-Georges. Her philosophy? decanting, minimum sulphur and bottling without fining or filtering.
2005 Pierre Bourée, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Clos St.Jacques
Deeply coloured – purple at the rim. The nose starts with plenty of oak that has a hint of toast but no more – it’s very wide and covers dark-skinned fruit. It slowly evolves, but never shows the complexity and stems of the 2004. Mouth-filling, again there’s oak flavour and some well grained tannin too. The acidity starts a tiny bit forward, though only exacerbates the superb length – those flavours are a lot to do with oak and are eventually just a little bitter, but this is very impressive. Quite some concentration in the mid-palate and certainly it’s a little rustic, but it’s clearly full of wine – better than some GC’s! This will need several years for the wood to move into the background, but it’s a real quality effort that shows personality. I initially bought three, but am now going back for a couple more – clearly built for the long-haul. As a post-script, day two shows little obvious oak, still no stems and a better balance. All good signs – okay, maybe I’d have liked a little stems…
Rebuy – Yes
I had a glass of a more than worthy 2005 Corton (note tomorrow) next to this. The Corton was long and more elegant though didn’t have the oomph or chutzpah of the Bourée!
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