Toasted bread and yellow fruit aromas that tend towards the savoury. In the mouth this holds your interest with a good mineral undertow; perfectly balanced there are flavours of fruit and more stones but they only appear in the mid-palate. Long and lingering, the last drops in the glass offering classic Meursault aromas. Super.
The nose has more width than depth, but the whole of that width has notable intensity. Likewise in the mouth this seems super-wide; the texture is just a hint plush and the mineral flavour is hard to contain in your mouth as the intensity grows. Flavour very impressively clings to the side of your mouth. Grand Cru standard…
From eighty year-old vines. The nose liberates nicely complex dark fruit. Full in the mouth, with understated tannin that still asserts itself with just a hint of ‘grab’. The tannin even grows a little in the finish, but it is a characterful addition to fruit that has more than one layer. Will be very good I think, but needs a little more patience than the Nuits.
The nose is wide and fine with pretty high tones, yet it is perhaps a little tight as it shows less intensity than the previous wines. In the mouth this is quite lovely; round, not a little brooding you are left with a furry tannin to remind you. This is clearly a little tight today but shows the hallmarks of good winemaking.
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose is quite different to yesterday’s M&P Rion; narrow, yet it plumbs impressive depth; redder with a note of cherry stones – blind, you would be unlikely to pick this as a 2009. In the mouth this has some fat, but there’s also a beautiful line of acidity that runs through the core of the wine. The crystalline fruit seems equally bright and quite fleet of foot too – nothing vaguely ponderous here. Quite long on a fading mineral note. Considering he’s such a late picker I have no idea how Laurent delivers such minerality in a vintage like 2009, but chapeau! Excellent wine that is far from the vintage stereotype.
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose shows a heavy musky fruit of impressive depth and quite some layers. Lovely texture that has just a hint of fat followed by a growing intensity of flavour – the intensity is turned-up by having understated but rather good acidity – given three or four years and the shrinking of the fruit’s puppy-fat and this could have just about perfect balance. The last part of the mid-palate, heading into the finish shows a good whack of extract and just a hint of bitterness in the finish, a very good length of finish. Full, frank and yet cuddly today, this has everything to deliver a compelling performance, but I expect that performance is the best part of 15 years away…
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