Premier

1982 Angerville Marquis d' Volnay Clos des Ducs

By on December 31, 2002 #asides

Fantastic deep ruby core gradually lightening to amber, looks only 8-10 years of age. Nose still has some high flowery tones, but most of the interest is lower down with tea, leather and smokey notes. Palate has excellent acidity with still furry background tannin. Surprisingly vigorous, excellent density of stewed red fruits and a ‘marmite’ finish. The wine lost none of its intensity during the 90 minutes it was open. Given the still robust tannin I would guess that this wine was no charmer in its first 10+ years, but frankly, I couldn’t have expected it to be so excellent.

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1997 Angerville Marquis d' Volnay Champans

By on December 31, 2002 #asides

From half. Medium ruby colour with amber at the rim. Nose is clean, some alcohol with redcurrants at the top end and black cherry at the bottom, doesn’t shout ‘Volnay’ though. The spice notes disappeared when I moved away the nearby candle which contains cloves !! There’s strong acidity, which to start with is not very well balanced. Tannins are fine, with medium length fruit of the red variety. After 90 minutes things are a little better, almost good but this wine is still not worth a search. From this producer, disappointing.

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1996 Pousse d'Or Santenay Clos des Tavannes

By on December 31, 2002 #asides

Medium ruby with some age now evident at the rim. Nose is oaky, but it is sweet and deep rather than toasty with some stewed red fruit. Palate is quite thick with concentrated cherry and juicy mouthwatering acidity. Quite long but just a little astingency at the end. Still very good plus.

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1990 Clavelier SA Vosne-Romanée Aux Brûlées

By on December 31, 2002 #asides

The wine-list was a bit miss-leading as I was expecting a Thomas-Moillard wine – however the label looked nice so I took it anyway !! Deep ruby colour with no colour development and not much lighter at the rim. Nose is very deep with cooked fruits , black & red, though still quite primary. Palate is thick with well covered acidity and slightly rustic unresolved tannin. The spicy fruit and finish, however, are superb, a true multidimensional taste experience. Despite the rustic tannins and despite the fact it’s still January, my wine of the year so far Excellent+

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1997 Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune Grèves Vigne de l'Enfant Jésus

By on December 31, 2002 #asides

A waft of oak is followed by smoke, then in succession, violets, strawberry and redcurrant confiture, ending with caramel and faint vanilla, so many layers – excellent. The palate has excellent density of primarily red fruits, lovely acidity but a very astringent finish. This improves with a minimum 2 hours in a decanter. Too young, but super potential.

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1999 Jadot Louis Pommard Epenots

By on December 31, 2002 #asides

Good deep cherry colour with hints of purple. Nose starts very closed, though a hint flowery. Develops to give nicely defined red berry fruit with a darker undertow of prune. The palate is fat with very well covered acidity and tannin. Though only medium length, this wine is really opulent. It doesn’t want to come out to play just now, but given time it should be fabulous. Wait at least 3 years to re-taste.

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1997 Potel Nicolas Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Dominode

By on December 31, 2002 #asides

Ruby red with just a little amber at the rim. Nose is a very nice combination of high ‘rose’ tones and red and black fruit, tending towards black. There develops some meaty tones with aeration. Quite sweet palate with excellent acidity. Good fruit density, almost with a tinge of orange. Medium tannins, but a wine you definitely won’t regret savouring today. Fine.

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1998 Hudelot-Noellat Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots

By on December 31, 2002 #asides

Deep ruby colour, more mature looking than anticipated. Some high toast oak though not overpowering, behind it there is cherry, ‘mixed spice’ and coffee. In the mouth, very smooth though oaky. Good acidity and still some tannin, though quite refined. There is cherry fruit and a particularly long vanilla crème finish. Provided over the next 5+ years it puts on a bit more weight in the mid-palate, this will be exceptionally good.

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1998 Dancer Vincent Pommard Perrières

By on December 31, 2002 #asides

Quite deep ruby colour. Nose has a nice depth of red and black cherry, earthy with traces of coffee. The palate shows sweet, concentrated cherry fruit. There’s very good acidity, well covered smooth tannins and a trace of vanilla-oak on the finish. Perhaps a modern, more extracted style, but with a successful delivery, certainly the oak’s not overdone. Very good.

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