Very high-toned aromas, indeed close to volatile. In the mouth there’s some good tannin that has just a twist of astringency, yet, again, I have the impression that the fruit is rather medicinal and seems a match to the nose. I hope this is an off bottle because it is far from my taste, even before taking into account the price asked…
Premier
2008 Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune du Château
Gradually there are some higher, floral tones and eventually a few flashes of tobacco too, but mainly this has a deeper register of dark fruit buttressed by equally dark oak. Round, plenty of sweet depth, just a little cushioning, balanced by close to perfect acidity. There’s plenty of flavour here, but I really can’t find the ‘Beaune’, and that’s because such a large part of the flavour profile is the sweetness of dark oak. Despite that oak, this has quite a measure of elegance – this is a lovely wine – but it needs to shed a lot of non-grape derived flavour before it becomes a lovely Beaune.
2009 Lejeune Pommard Les Argillières
Here is a quite lovely red-fruit-driven nose. In the moth this is a combination of equally red pretty fruit and quite some tannin. There’s a bit of astringency before a long finish. A strong character in all departments and certainly an interesting glass yet initially this seemed not that ‘together’. The last third was drunk on day two; it was rounder, more supple and seemed very well put together. Probably a wine to wait at least ten years for, but worth a few bottles in the cellar!
2008 Gagnard Jean-Noël Chassagne-Montrachet Blanchot Dessus
Full, round and very complex aromas – never a classic wine of Chassagne to me – but super it its own way. Lush and rich yet with excellent acidity and energy. Surely some creamy barrel aspects but the layers of flavour are so compelling. Is there anything missing? Perhaps just a hint of Caillerets minerality; with that, it could have been the best 2008 I tasted at home this year.
2009 Ramonet Noel Chassagne-Montrachet La Boudriotte
Cork, quite a long cork. Aromas of herbs and pure red fruits, eventually with a warm edge; there’s also the typical 09 top notes that are close alcoholic. Rather silky though the intensity grows quickly delivering a little texture in the finish – this is beautifully detailed but rather boisterous, delivering a whack of mid-palate flavour that couldn’t really be described as elegant, despite the lovely texture – but today I don’t need elegant, excellent will do and this fits the bill.