One week in bottle. The nose is already beautifully in place. Mouth-filling, fresh, highly energetic and complex – Ooh delicious too. Really layered in the finish – lots of flavour to give. Excellent wone!
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Grand
2008 Bouchard Père et Fils Chevalier-Montrachet
1998 Bouchard Père et Fils Chevalier-Montrachet
1988 Bouchard Père et Fils Le Corton
1958 Bouchard Père et Fils Montrachet
Darker almost Sauternes colur. A nose that grows and grows, eventually becoming smoky, almost marmalade, apricot, some nuts and dried fruit – that’s so special. A line of lavour, starting tight, sowly melting tiny complexities over the palate. Vibrant, complex, superb finishing. Maybe the 1998 is the most impressive finishing of all these Bouchards, but all the same, this is simply great wine. In the context of such a poor vintage, can there be a greater wine?
1998 Maume Mazis-Chambertin
Ooh – here’s a forward nose – lots of volume – with plenty of herb in a large expanse of complexity. Cushioned depth to the palate, considerable concentration, still a grain of tannin. Layered, intense, with waves of flavour, faintly bitter and saline. Never a sweet wine, never a comforting wine – but frankly who cares, this is really super, indeed invigorating stuff.
2000 Raphet Jean Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose is a real babe – nothing masculine here – cushioned, soft with a super-elegant, yet fresh, perfume of red fruits with just a hint of something musky (dusky?) in the depth that envelopes you – forget the vintage, aromatically this is simply fabulous. Elegance might be a reasonable descriptor for the flavours too; softly textured but with depth and complexity. Fair to say that the palate cannot quite scale the same heights as the aromas but this wine simply left me purring.
1990 Faiveley Joseph Corton Clos des Cortons Faiveley
Medium-plus colour – not exactly a spring chicken but doesn’t look its 20 years old either. Some forest floor notes, impressive depth too, some of the notes hinting at old wood. There’s still an undercurrent of chewy tannin, and very good acidity – all the wine’s texture coming from the tannin. You have the impression the flavour will be only medium length, before a powerful reprise of old vanilla and other barrel notes erupts from the depth – becomes exceptionally long, even showing a little dark red fruit. Impressive, indeed compelling stuff, though arguably not that friendly, I might even say young – a wine for the next 30 years…
2010 Marchand Pascal Corton
The nose has a wonderful depth, certainly quite the cuisinière though with coffee, chocolate, hints of coconut – fortunately I also find fruit. As the previous wines, Pascal has delivered a super-fine structure that delivers excellence without sacrificing intensity of flavour. Gorgeous clarity and super length.