Travel

back from the côtes with a few pics…

By billn on January 29, 2011 #travel#travel pics

Typically the last couple of hours of my days in the Côtes finally attracted a hint of blue sky and sunshine – such a shame then that most of those two hours I was in a cellar!

The vignerons had a good laugh at the mad Englishman in their cellars this week – suffering with a bad back I could be quite crippled, being bent double every time I spent more than 10 minutes driving my hire-car – the only way to unwind my frame was to lie flat on my back for a couple of minutes, usually in their cellars! Actually it was a good vantage point to gauge the cleanliness of their cuveries 😉

Anyway, lots of stories and lots of wines which may eventually find their way here. The 09s continue to go through elevage; apart from a few regional and/or villages wines which have already been bottled or will be bottled in the next couple of weeks, a majority will be bottled from springtime. There is jammy, there is beautiful freshness or even, in some cellars, the structure to denote a long life – but rarely all in the same cellar!

Before the pics, a thoughtful piece today on white Burgundy from Jancis.

unprofessional ‘professionals’ plus a few pics…

By billn on January 26, 2011 #other sites#travel#travel pics

“In January 2010, I had a good look at the 2008 Burgundies and decided that they were in the main thin, hollow and unappealing. What I didn’t know at the time was that most of them had still not undergone their malolactic fermentation. Retasting the wines in September 2010, I found that thinness has now transformed into elegance.”
Oz Clarke, Wine Spectator

I appreciate the candour of Oz Clarke in this instance, but frankly he has a well-known name in the UK, and his initial comments betray a lack of understanding (as a minimum they were clearly uninformed) so essentially were unprofessional – I hope he wasn’t paid to express them!

Anyway, more fun – I’m in Burgundy and the temperature is hovering above zero and there’s some rain – it’s not for mooching around outdoors. Yesterday was a mix of Pommard, Puligny, Nuits then Beaune (locations), today was a slightly more focused Gevrey and Marsannay, while tomorrow will be trek north from Savigny to Nuits to Chambolle eventually to Morey. I’m not even thinking of Friday.

gorgeous…

By billn on January 24, 2011 #travel#travel pics

eiger-monch-jungfrau

The snow, not the Humagne Blanc!

Just a perfect long weekend in Mürren – despite not taking-part in the race. Now down to earth, the rest of the week in Burgundy – somebody has to do it…

rucksacks and waxing…

By billn on January 20, 2011 #degustation#travel

madrisaLast weekend was the inaugural 2011 trip to the mountains, and what weather! Middle of January – hum! – more like the middle of April; at 1,900m and at 10am it was 12°C! Still there was plenty of sunshine to warm the wobbly legs. Snow was a bit sticky by 1:00pm though.

I took a couple of recent Camille Giroud purchases with me; 1. The 2007 Corton-Charlemagne. During harvesting I thought this super, so bought what turned out to be their last bottles, all three of them! This Charlemagne manages to be comforting and generous yet witty and communicative at the same time – lovely wine. 2. The 2008 ‘Corton’. No bruiser this, more of a technically gifted middle-weight – lovely again and more giving than you might expect from the vintage. My host, a drinker of Bordeaux, suggested that if all Burgundy tasted like this he would swap allegiance in a jiffy – job done methinks 🙂

So I left those sunny slopes behind, but that was only a warm-up for this week’s skiing. I’ll be heading to the focus of those grey and wet webcam pictures. Hopefully the weather will be nicer by the end of the week, ‘only’ Swiss wine to ease aching limbs this weekend though.

more pics from the côtes…

By billn on December 05, 2010 #travel#travel pics

Just back, here are a few more from the album:

vines & wines – and bottles too…

By billn on December 01, 2010 #other sites#travel#travel pics

Clark is off on one – as they say – but there are flashes of brilliance therein.

Anyway, and more imprtantly, we are in the Côtes. That’s not just the ‘Royal We’, chauffeuse and dog included – even some selfless tasting by the driver too – what a brick. Starting on Tuesday in Meursault, moving to Volnay than south again to Puligny – tough day. My sensitive tooth survived the acidity of day one, but will the Sensodyne stand up to Wednesday? Santenay, Meursault and Santenay again – selfless I call it – you really don’t understand the sacrifices! 😉

A few pics from Tuesday & Wednesday:

rain, rain, go away & ponnelle 1983…

By billn on October 17, 2010 #degustation#travel

The weather had to change (of-course) and on Saturday we awoke to precipitation – the camera is not likely to be exercised. Still, I have a tasting in Volnay at 10am and another in Savigny at 3:15 – not bad for a Saturday – sandwiched in-between is a lunch in the café of Puligny and a quick scoot around the bookshop in Beaune.

After a week of eating and tasting, a simple plate of cheese on toast is perfect for the last hours at home – the ’83 Nuits is also not too bad! This is now a monopole of Prieuré-Roch and I note was imported into Switzerland by (possibly still) the most important Swiss merchant – well, they distribute DRC anyway!

ponnelle-nuits-corvees-1983

1983 Pierre Ponnelle, Nuits St.Georges 1er Le Clos des Corvées
Some signs of seepage above the cork, but it comes out without major headaches and the wine seems fresh enough. Dark, fresh aromas of berries and bramble – it’s certainly at the darker end of the fruit-colour spectrum but there’s nothing cooked about it and there is no sense of decay – it’s very nice indeed. The palate is a bit of a surprise as there is a dryness from still obvious tannin – this must have been an absolute brute in its youth! Good acidity and likewise there’s energy too – the juxtaposition with the nose is that you expect more sweetness on the palate than this wine is prepared to give. Without sight of the vintage I’d have ventured to suggest leaving it in the cellar another 5 years or so – in some respects it reminds me of some 95s I’ve tasted!
Rebuy – Maybe

chassagne and a little ‘paulée’

By billn on October 16, 2010 #picture gallery#travel#travel pics#vintage 2010

Friday. The last day of (almost) sun in the côtes – it was a little misty, but dry. I can’t ever remember walking through the vines in September in ‘normal’ shoes – the ground was so dry. Lots of work was being done replacing old/dead vines and even a bit of ploughing here and there before the rain that was forecast for the weekend.

The pictures that follow are mainly from around and in the Clos St.Jean (1er) in Chassagne-Montrachet. It’s not every autumn that the chardonnay and pinot vines are so well delineated in the vineyard – and yes, the red ones are the pinot!

The evening was a mini-paulée of sorts. This week saw the conclusion of the harvest for the home team – yes even grapes were harvested! A parcel of Hautes Côtes was picked on Monday – the grapes were nothing special but will make a very good rosé – as some vignerons would say, they were still too good for Cremant! The majority of the harvest team (stageurs) were still at the domaine so a dinner seemed appropriate! Two whites; a 2003 Jomain Puligny Perrières was a surprising smooth and interesting aperitif – far from ideal acidity but in a very nice shape – followed by a lovely 2007 Javilier Meursault Clos du Cromin. The reds were a world tour; The previously tasted (here) Donatsch 2008 ‘Passion’, a Californian (non-pinot) whose name I forget, a South African (Danie de Wet) Nature in Concert Pinot and finally a 1990 Lafarge Beaune 1er Grèves. See – we were quite modest 😉

Musical backdrop to the 2010 vintage: Citizen Cope – thanks Amy!

Burgundy Report

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