Travel

rain and romanée-conti security…

By billn on May 06, 2010 #travel

It’s an away-day in the Côtes today – actually this is day 1 of 2…

A 5:15 alarm this morning as my first appointment was 8:45. Leaden skies the whole way from Switzerland, the rain varied all the way but never enough to take the window wipers off ‘intermittent’.

So my day was a tasting followed by an appoinment that was deferred as it fell into farce, a nice lunch with ‘very fine’ people. Then there was a break in the weather – still grey, but no rain, so two hours wandering in the vines before a coffee and cake then two more appointments; 17:30 and 19:15. With a (hire) car full of wine (how did that happen?) I ended-up back in Beaune – and it was ‘only’ 21:00 – but I had one more appointment; to pick up a couple more bottles while sitting with some aquaintences and perhaps holding a glass myself. Hmm, an 8:45 start again tomorrow – people have no idea how tough this is 😉

I noted on the radio a story abouth somebody blackmailing the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti; “send me €1 million or I’ll poison the vines in RC” Or that’s what I thought as I drifted through the story, not initially listening – because of-course it was in French 😉 Two people gave me some input to the story;

  1. Apparently this wasn’t some highly sophisticated Oceans Eleven, or Russian Mafia plot. A box of money was delivered and the police waited behind a bush and caught them!
  2. Vine sabotage is as old as history if somebody has a very surly neighbour. Of-course it is easier these days with a squirt of herbicide, but in older times ‘heavy-duty’ pruning – i.e. to the ground – usually brought people into line…

Anyway I didn’t see security at each corner of said fabled vineyard when I drove through in the late afternoon – perhaps it was too wet for them!

[pictures at the weekend…]

white wines with a red nose…

By billn on February 25, 2010 #degustation#p.ox#travel#travel pics

klosters-madrisa
Impressed with my dexterity in Photoshop? Actually it is just a moody (blurred!) image from my phone…

klosters - dog tiredOnly a few days after a day-trip to Mürren we find ourselves in Klosters – well it is the season! Mainly blue sky, but getting a little warm with sticky snow by lunchtime – good for delivering the characteristic red nose though!

The long-legged redhead went to ‘doggy-daycare’ with 12-13 other daytime-abandoned dogs, delivering the perfect evening example of ‘dog-tired’.

A couple of evening wines – both 2003 whites – might be of interest for you. First up was the 2003 Vincent Girardin, Corton-Charlemagne which delivered an even better performance than this last bottle – whilst not ‘fresh’, I certainly wasn’t longing for more acidity. To follow, came the 2003 Vincent Girardin, Chevailier-Montrachet and what an impressive bottle – and I mean the bottle – a super-deep punt and heavy glass. On pouring, nothing untoward on the colour, but the nose has the first whiffs of oxidation – annoying rather than destructive. Across the palate this is certainly balanced enough and displays a generous extra mass versus the Charlemagne, the texture is good too. Unfortunately this is linear and young – tasty, but little overt complexity – just what you don’t want to hear after the oxidative hints on the nose. That’s a shame, as non-oxidising bottles won’t be anywhere near peaking in the next 5 years…

breaking new ground not bones – a helmet’s tale…

By billn on January 26, 2010 #degustation#travel

LauterbrunnenThursday last week and it’s the 09:28 train from Basel to Interlaken – and it was blue sky and sunshine – for 2010 (so far) that’s a novelty . Of-course through the long tunnel in the direction of Olten and we’re back into the more typical grey and mist of January. In-and-out of Bern station, you potentially have the most gorgeous of views; the sunlit, snow-covered alps as a backdrop – but not today – the grey is too grey. But what’s that? Hints of blue above as we stop in Thun and eventually sunshine in Interlaken. Ye-haaah! (sorry, my apologies; for a moment I forgot – I don’t whoop!)

I was heading to Mürren for my annual ‘recapturing my youth weekend’ – the Inferno Rennen – oldest and longest downhill ski-race in the world. This year only 9.6km as the run from Mürren to Lauterbrunnen doesn’t have enough snow – the full distance can be 16km. Despite the fact that this year I’m sporting longer skis and a new helmet (clearly this is the differentiator!) I quickly realise that I have no chance of a medal (less than 160% of winner’s time gets a bronze medal, less than 130% gets a silver – there is only one gold…) because the top-half of the course is a mix of black and red runs on which a normal, competently skiing mortal cannot comprehend the speed of those born(e) on skis!

Still, I had some friends in the resort and the weather was gorgeous – what’s not to love? There’s a new wine on the hotel winelist too – perfect:

2006 Albert Bichot, Volnay
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose is deep and a little dark-shaded, perhaps a little dense and unyielding too- higher, floral tones flutter above. In the mouth it is round, velvet textured, with a good, slow diminuendo of flavour. The acidity smoothly keeps everything balanced and ‘together’. Structured and serious, yet currently quite drinkable – very, very good.
Rebuy – Yes

Compared to the Dubreuil-Fontaine Volnay of a few days ago, this is a little less intense but it’s also fuller and much more open to approach.

Friday afternoon – we’ve had sun all day! – I take a friend who has never before been on the Schilthorn-run, all the way through the inferno course – the Schilthorn isn’t pisted so is definitely a black run, but he only slips once – he’s a happy and proud man at the finish – me too, well done Tim!

Saturday and up to see the kamikaze racers (those afore-mentioned people born on skis) who fly down the incredibly steep Kanonnenrohr (the gun-barrel) black-run in only two turns before 4 switch-backs and a schuss to a 270° high-speed (!) turn. The fastest time is 7:31 mins for the 9.6km distance, and that’s despite 3 uphill sections on the course – well it’s 7:31 before I have a go anyway 😉 I ‘only’ need 12 mins for a medal then, ah-well, at least I have a new helmet!

A short recce of a schuss (where I fell last year!) to see how bumpy it is, followed by a liquid lunch – tomato soup and coffee – that’s living! Then back to the hotel to get changed for the race. Changed? Well, yes. Last year I succumbed to peer pressure and acquired a ski-racing suit – everyone does it, honest! – Today I am spider-man – but for ‘technical’ reasons there are no pictures, despite my wondrous physique(!) Last year a fellow competitor called me a fat ba…… when he saw I couldn’t get my back-protector under the spider-suit (he bought one the year before!), so that was an early target in training for the 2010 race. Several weeks of back-pain and a few colds meant that there was no training (jogging) over Christmas, so I settled for reverting to the 2009 target i.e. only to be able to get into the suit! What a shocker then on race-day when I managed the ‘double’. I might still be a b……, but not a fat b……! 😉

Up the cable-car to the Schilthorn with all the ‘racers’ apparently coming from your 1970’s childhood memories – given that 2 metre-plus skis are de-rigeur! Ahead of me in the queue for the starting gate is a young Swedish guy (1472), behind me a 63 year-old ‘Swiss-Racer’ (1474) and behind him a guy that looks like he’s prepared for the Winter Olympics next month (1475) – we set-off at 15 second intervals (as did 1,900 racers that day!). The start is just like the TV – 5,4,3,2,1 – break the timing contact and then try not to fall in the first 10 metres!

Despite my child-like 184cm giant slalom skis, I ride the bumps around the first gates (the ‘piste’ is very far from pisted when 1,400 people have gone before you!) then tuck into the long schuss – wow that’s fast, and I didn’t even go for the fluorinated wax! – around the corner and into the next tuck. I blast past the Swede – that felt good! Further down I blast past another couple of ‘racers’ – no-body’s passed me yet! Down to the Kannonenrohr dispatching another slow-coach and, not bad, only four turns before I get round the turn at the bottom of the Kannonenrohr – which is the first of the 4 switchbacks – I’m getting rather confident when disaster hits on switch-back 3; related to my ‘optimistic’ entry speed and angle of approach perhaps, but who put that great hump of ice in the middle of the turn? I hit it dead-centre and it stops me equally dead. Well not exactly, it throws me into the air whilst removing a ski – I bounce hard on my nice new helmet and end up 10 metres down the (very steep) slope. Bugger! I seem not to be dead, but the lost ski is way above me and the only way to get it is to remove my remaining ski. ‘Walking’ up the slope and Mr ‘1475 Winter Olympics’ zooms past. I recover the lost ski and slide back down to the other one – then ‘how to get the buggers back on on such a steep slope?’ – First the Swede gets back in front (I suspect with a contented smile), then the 63 year-old. I eventually get the skis back on by jamming a stick below them to stop them slipping away when I try to press my foot into the bindings. Ah well, onwards. I take a conservative line for the 270° turn and then head for the finish – virtually straight. I cross the line quite happy with my time – about 16:40 – despite at least 3 minutes on my arse that’s still 1:20 faster than the last time I ‘raced’ the same course in 2008 (a video of the course in 2008) – and I didn’t fall the first time around! Even without the fall I suppose I would have taken 13 minutes – so no problem – it was fun and I’m still alive.

On Sunday, nursing a sore neck, I look at the results; ‘Mr 1475 Winter Olympics’ – 8:30 mins – no way!!! Then ‘1472 The Swede’ under 12 mins and a bronze medal and ‘Mr 1474 63 year-old Swiss-Racer’, just over 12 minutes and a bronze in his class. Shit! Switch-back 3 was about 70% of the way through the course and they were all well behind me – okay Mr Winter Olympics might have caught up most of his 30 seconds deficit, but he was still behind – I had no idea that I’d lost 5 minutes or-more with my miss-hap. Perhaps it’s time to be less self-deprecating and smoke the buggers next year – my neck’s stopped hurting now 🙂

See, I knew the helmet would make the difference!

Race Pictures here

snow and wine…

By billn on January 18, 2010 #degustation#travel

criots

’twas the annual weekend pilgrimage to Klosters for my pre race ‘training’.

Training consisted of a first night of 2001 Girardin, Puligny Combettes – a wine of gunflint and latent savoury oak, lean yet still balanced. The oak means that it’s not my favourite style but it pleased many around the table. It was, though, rather put in the shade by the 2006 Nicolas Potel, Criots-Bâtard Montrachet – this a replacement for the last bottle that was corked. Only in its last 20 minutes did it show any aromatic depth (it was decanted 2 hours before serving), but its supple, brooding approach and achingly long finish were enough to convince. We finished with David Clark’s 2006 Morey St.Denis Les Porroux – which was a wine of elegance and balance – very, very charming – certainly not the masculinity often seen from Morey. I think there was a St.Emilion from 2003 also… 😉

Saturday was a day of sun and also some queues at the lifts – apparently the blue-skies of the web-cams enticing the fog-bound people of Zürich from their lairs. More training in the evening – a wine tasting in a beautiful location. Sunday – no queues, but by lunchtime its snowing – only a nutter (or a good skier!) goes out in this, so by 12:00 I’m already tucking into rösti and ‘house-sausage’. A toss of the coin comes down in favour of apple küchen and cream – meringue and cream the loser. Afterwards I feign motivation and do another hour-or-so, at least managing a good ‘burn’…

For the technicians I’m on Core Downforce 184cm GS skis – admirably stable with a numpty on-board, and just as easy to turn as my older 178cm carvers – impressed!

just an average day-trip to burgundy…

By billn on December 09, 2009 #travel

Aubert de Villaine - not smiling after being made to wait!
Aubert de Villaine - after being made to wait in the cold!
Monday was just your average away-day to Burgundy:

5:30am – Alarm, cereal, wash, shave then eventually open my eyes.

6:25am – In the car and away. Plenty of rain as we went through the ‘Doubs’ and around Besançon. If the sky didn’t exactly clear, at least there was no rain when, at 9:10am, I pulled into the parking area in Aloxe-Corton. The meeting time was 9:30, so we made good time. Or at least I thought we’d made good time, but when it got to 9:40 I realised, aided by a telephone message from the secretary of Aubert de Villaine (oops!), that he was waiting (since 9:30) by a different vineyard map in Corton. Ah-well, nothing like making an impression!

11:00am – picked up some wine and blagged a coffee and a Waitrose plain-chocolate coated ginger biscuit (mmm…) from M&M in Aloxe, before heading for lunch in Caves Madeleine – rustic jambon persille, beef bouguignone and some tasty, runny cheese – lovely! Washed down with a 2006 Nuits 1er Perrières – the last 3rd of the bottle I will drink tonight. Hubert de Montille was taking lunch beside us – nice chap, he liked our dog despite her bad habit of scanning the dining table…

2:20pm – picked up some more wine (these trips can be expensive) from Blair Pethel, who was recovering from the grippe! Hardly time even to say hello before running off (nothing to do with worring about his infections!) to arrive at 2:30pm (on-time) at the Bouchard Père et Fils winery in Savigny (well close to Savigny anyway). Unfortunately there was a mix-up, and Philippe Prost was waiting for me in Beaune – bugger – I could have walked there from Caves Madeleine! We finally sat together in the tasting room at about 2:50pm. Philippe is a goldmine of info and I always enjoy our chats, but by 4pm we were only just finishing the reds, and there was an equally table-groaning number of whites waiting to taste; at that point I had to call friends of friends to get a telephone number of somebody to pass on a message (…!) to say that there would be no chance to make my 4-4:30pm appointment and maybe we could do it next time. I hope they will have me back in January! We actually stepped out into the rain at 5:30pm, and headed straight for a coffee…!

6:45pm – arrived in Morey St.Denis at Domaine David Clark to pick up some wine (!) after accepting his kindly offer of dinner with him and his parents. While there I got to see the new bottling machine as conceived and implemented by l’equipe technique du domaine; DRC and Leflaive will be so jealous of this gentle approach to bottling! Did I mention bottling? Guess what the parents will be doing as you read this 😉 We left after espressos as the clock reached 9:15pm. One stop in the services at Besançon for a splash of fuel (no point filling up in France, it’s much cheaper in Switzerland) for the car, and another espresso fuel for me. Finally arrived home at about 12:20am to lots of rain.

1:00am – Showered and soundly asleep! (Thanks to all who made it so worthwhile.)

in the côtes…

By billn on November 02, 2009 #travel

leaves

I’m just back from burgundy, and I have to say, with a stinking cold – no wines for me in the next days. Also not so picturesque while I was there – too much mist. Still I have a few things in my notebook to fill in the gap 😉

PS – anybody ever heard of these? :

boilleraultdechauvigny

mugneret-gibourg 06 bourgogne plus dijon pics

By billn on May 10, 2009 #degustation#picture gallery#travel#travel pics

Mugneret-Gibourg Bourgogne 2006
Mugneret-Gibourg Bourgogne 2006

2006 Mugneret-Gibourg, Bourgognetry to find this wine...
Relatively deep colour with purple hints. The nose is heavy with dark, sugar-coated cherry. There’s a soft texture and decent concentration. Slightly tart acidity is more than offset by young fruit that is both stylish and concentrated plus shows a good extra dimension in the mid-plate. A reasonable, if rather faint finish is the last act – perhaps dilute would also be an appropriate alternate description, despite the length. Not a long note, but a bottle that was emptied alarmingly fast. At a good price, this is worth going ‘long’ on for your cellar.
Rebuy – Yes

A few more pics from travels last week. I’ve bypassed the place so often, I thought I should eventually spend a few hours in Dijon. Clearly a town (city) of accumulated wealth yet quite some backstreet charm too. Still, I don’t expect to be wasting my valuable time in the region by rushing back… 🙂

jadot vosne-romanée 1er petits monts 02 plus vosne pics…

By billn on May 07, 2009 #degustation#picture gallery#travel#travel pics

Louis Jadot Vosne-Romanée 1er 2002 Petits Monts
Louis Jadot Vosne-Romanée 1er 2002 Petits Monts

As I opened a Vosne, I have an excuse to add a few photos (below) from a promenade of sorts I made in the village last week. As you can see, Louis-Michel Liger-Belair’s ‘I’m the only crane in the village’ crown has gone to Château Latour, who, economic depression or not, are still ploughing cash into the construction of their new Domaine d’Eugenie cuverie – the photo is take over the wall of the Vosne-Romanée Clos Frantin vineyard which still belongs to Albert Bichot (Domaine du Clos Frantin) though they sold Latour their old cuverie buildings.

Whatever is happening in the wider market, there are always bargains to be found. In the last 12 months or so (ignoring 2004) I would say some of the best value wines have been from the 2001/2002 vintages. Here is an example of that, a case purchased last year from the broking list of a main UK merchant for £275. Perfect storage history of course, but then it will only be worth the bargain ‘tag’ if it’s any good:
2002 Louis Jadot, Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Petits Montstry to find this wine...
A medium, medium-plus intermediate age colour. The nose starts a little dumb but slowly adds width, depth and dimension – it’s about understated but polished fruit and a blend of spicy herbs. Like the nose, the palate needs about 45 minutes to one hour to get into a good place but then you have a mouthful of silky texture, decent concentration, the sweetly fresh fruit that is the hallmark of the vintage and a really super length that mixes faint caramel and oak flavours. Very well balanced and, like many 2002s, still partly in its shell – but this has super potential – I should say it also wasn’t bad on the night!
Rebuy – Yes

Burgundy Report

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