2004 Nicolas Potel, Chambolle-Musigny Vieilles Vignes
A good, medium, medium-plus colour. The nose alas is a mix of cedary green and mushroom, there’s a pretty red fruit trying to peek through but frankly it’s drowned. In the mouth it’s nicely concentrated with good fat and a lovely red fruit base. The acidity is good but slides you into a finish where the green raises its head again. Such a shame.
Rebuy – No
Degustation
2x 2006 pulignys: carillon + mischief and mayhem
Carillon is a benchmark for village Puligny, so given that I bought some M&M bottles and I finally got some Carillon delivered, this seemed a worthwhile comparison. By a ‘nose’ I gave the aromatic laurels to Carillon, but taking the package as a whole, I just find the M&M more fun right now and at least as concentrated. Based on the number of bottles I already bought, the result went in my favour, but both are easy recommendations!
2006 Louis Carillon, Puligny-Montrachet
Pale yellow. The nose starts with a waft of oak that subsides to brioche over an understated but slightly volatile pear-drops note. Good texture and lovely acidity, the fruit has a similar, slightly lifted pear fruit, but it’s largely buried by the toasty, savoury flavours in the mid-palate and a really good, sweeter length. The fruit is better – the volatility is gone – on day two, but the aromatics are slightly less good.
Rebuy – Yes
2006 Mischief and Mayhem, Puligny-Montrachet
Just a little deeper yellow. Wide, fruit driven nose – still some brioche but of a lower order than the Carillon, a little toffee too. Similar pear-fruit but just a little fatter texture. Good texture and a more creamy fruit driven experience in the mid-palate. The finish is very good, but it would be easy to miss the reprise it brings to another level. Less structured and today more ‘comely’.
Rebuy – Yes
sérafin chambolle-musigny 1er les baudes 2001
2001 Sérafin Père et Fils, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Baudes
Medium-plus colour – still holding onto that cherry-red hue. The nose is deep with sweet, dark oak and just as dark cherry floating above. In the mouth there’s plenty of oak-derived sweetness, and it’s dark, well toasted oak that mirrors the nose – on the positive side, it’s so well done that I have no expectation that it will become ‘ashy’ with time. The mouth-feel is plush, and the acidity helps push the mid-palate’s burst of interest well into a long finish. Hedonistic, yet despite trying to discount my lack of favour for the style, I still can’t get over the fact that I feel the chambolle-ness has been lost. Expertly made, very tasty and I expect will have a good, long life. I only miss the sense of place, I suspect that others may disagree.
Rebuy – Maybe
harvest day 2 – notes and pics
As a post-script to the last 2 days, I think I do note drinking a glass or two. Here a modest selection drunk over the last two days:
2000 Camille Giroud, St.Aubin 1er Les Charmois
Medium golden. High tones over slightly creamy base – quite vibrant if not an integrated whole. Ripe fruit offset by slightly bright acidity. Quite long, and certainly very tasty.
Rebuy – Maybe
1987 Camille Giroud, Meursault 1er Les Perrières
Medium golden. An understated nose that shows a little creamy wool. The palate is linear – perhaps (old) boney – but very smooth and rushes you into a reasonable – creamy again – finish just a little faster than you might wish for the appellation, but it’s probably the appellation that saves it given such an inauspicious year and a maker with little track-record for whites. Enough for a last glass was was left in the bottle overnight and it was even slightly better the next day – not a hint of oxidation. Will make even older bones!
Rebuy – Maybe
1998 Fougeray de Beauclair, Bonnes-Mares
Medium, medium-pale ruy red. A nice, rather aged but still fruity nose edged with a little funk. In the mouth the fruit is okay, but the remnants of the tannin still show an astringent edge – this must have been close to undrinkable in its youth! It’s quite long and it’s a tasty length, but the fruit is way ahead of the tannin in termes of the age curve. I wouldn’t touch another for 5 years and I still think it will be a long way from silky.
Rebuy – No Shame I bought 6 – sales are such a lottery without a chance to taste.
2007 Blind Trail, Pinot Noir
From New Zealand. Deep cherry red. The nose frankly explodes with vibrant fruit – this smells just like a barrel sample. The texture is hampered slightly by a little dissolved gas – but not too much to enjoy. The acidity seems to keep the whole thing in order. Clearly would (should?) be spotted as non-burgundian in a blind line-up, but the bottle was finished to the last drop – mind-you we could have been trying to take the taste of our ‘dodgy’ main-course away! I’d love to taste this with 10 years bottle age; would the gap versus burgundy remain so wide?
Rebuy – Maybe
1976 Camille Giroud, Gevrey 1er Lavaux St.Jacques
A nice core of colour. The nose starts – just like a lot of older Giroud wines – like an Italian wine that’s spent a few years in a giant foudre – that ‘sort of’ oxidised note. Very slowly there is a little funk, finally a very nice and clear red berry note. Smooth on the tongue with nice acidity – also a little ‘gout de foudre’ but a nice little sparkle of something extra on the mid-palate. Has reasonable length and it’s certainly quite interesting – but unless you’ve the patience to open 3-4 hours before consuming, it’s a long way from a typical burgundy experience.
Rebuy – Maybe
1955 Camille Giroud, Volnay
‘Found’ in a Swiss auction for the price of a 2004 1er cru. Drunk at the domaine – and why not – despite their cellar of old wines, even David Croix hadn’t tried a Giroud ’55. The bottle, label and capsule were absolutely correct, and the level was only about 4cm from the cork which, by some miracle, I removed (about 1 hour before pouring) in only two pieces without dropping bits in the wine. The colour held a very nice core of deep salmon red. The nose was most intruiging; deep and apparently oaky over a few truffle notes. Slowly the ‘oak’ fades and reveals something much more like coffee – little fruit but clearly very alive – over about 1 hour (it was shared between 9 of us) it continued to change. In the mouth it was a soft entry and a rather metallic taste, the acidity seeming a little coarse before a long and very engaging finish. With food the coarsness faded almost into the background. Not a great wine by any means, but captivating to spend an hour with!
Rebuy – No Chance!
Pictures from Pommard
2004 vincent et denis berthaut gevrey clos des chézeaux
2004 Vincent et Denis Berthaut, Gevrey-Chambertin Clos des Chézeaux
Medium cherry-red. The nose starts with a dark oaky element intertwined with plenty of the 04 cedary green thing – after five minutes you have lost the dark part, it’s even eventually asparagus! In the mouth The fruit is sweet, but it’s really pushed into the background by the slightly mouth-puckering effect of the tannin/acidity. There’s plenty of that cedar thing in the mouth too. It may have a future, but it’s hard to see it.
Rebuy – No
2006 chézeaux / ponsot griotte-chambertin
In most respects, initial impressions of this wine were of the Chambolle Charmes ‘plus’ – shame there was some dodgy cork-taint…
2006 Chézeaux/Ponsot, Griotte-Chambertin
The colour is just a little darker. Aromatically I started with some concerns; the cork had a bad, rancid, almost volatile smell to it, some of that showed up as ‘inner mouth perfume’ as Burghound would say – far from perfume though – but fortunately it was only very faint on the nose. Mouth-filling, plenty of very fine tannin and a width of fine red fruit that’s both sweet and lingering. It’s quite a long way from the stunning depth of the 05, but then there is enough of that strange taint that I won’t rate it and would certainly send it back in a restaurant. I didn’t open a second one right away to see if it was better…!
2006 chézeaux / ponsot chambolle 1er charmes
2006 Chézeaux/Ponsot, Chambolle 1er Les Charmes
A relatively pale young wine – medium cherry-red colour. The nose is quite tight – some depth but little width, only slowly does a little definition and a pure red note start to build, eventually there’s also a floral aspect. Super texture, the tannin slowly builds in the mouth to give a little ripple of grain, astringency and also a little bitterness. Acidity is finely balanced and there is very good intensity to the fruit, fruit that seems to become sweeter with time. Not completely full of ‘charm’ at this stage, but everything is in place – wait at least 5 years before returning.
Rebuy – Yes
pierre bourée 2005 gevrey-chambertin 1er clos st.jacques
2005 Pierre Bourée, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Clos St.Jacques
Deeply coloured – purple at the rim. The nose starts with plenty of oak that has a hint of toast but no more – it’s very wide and covers dark-skinned fruit. It slowly evolves, but never shows the complexity and stems of the 2004. Mouth-filling, again there’s oak flavour and some well grained tannin too. The acidity starts a tiny bit forward, though only exacerbates the superb length – those flavours are a lot to do with oak and are eventually just a little bitter, but this is very impressive. Quite some concentration in the mid-palate and certainly it’s a little rustic, but it’s clearly full of wine – better than some GC’s! This will need several years for the wood to move into the background, but it’s a real quality effort that shows personality. I initially bought three, but am now going back for a couple more – clearly built for the long-haul. As a post-script, day two shows little obvious oak, still no stems and a better balance. All good signs – okay, maybe I’d have liked a little stems…
Rebuy – Yes
I had a glass of a more than worthy 2005 Corton (note tomorrow) next to this. The Corton was long and more elegant though didn’t have the oomph or chutzpah of the Bourée!
pierre bourée 2004 gevrey-chambertin 1er clos st.jacques
Currently the only ‘other’ négoce St.Jacques I can think of outside of Dominique Laurent’s – though I’ve heard of a Patrice Rion(?) – drop me a line if you can think of others…
2004 Pierre Bourée, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Clos St.Jacques
A rare négoce bottle of Clos St.Jacques. A deep core of already ruby-red colour – quite deeply coloured for a Bourée. The nose is the usual interesting blend of smoky Bourée stems a faint undertow of cedar, earthy Gevrey notes and another faint undertow of mushroom – the last droops in the glass hold a lovely pure redcurrant note. In the mouth there’s good texture; the plentiful tannins are not so astringent and are very well covered. There’s clearly plenty of concentration here, though the acidity shows a little too tart for the first hour, hence, defining the wine and becoming the major aspect of a very long finish. Density and complexity on the mid-palate is very good. This is a very young wine that improved in the glass such that the acidity was much less forward (maybe I was just ‘used’ to it) after an hour or so, but it is also today, slightly compromised by low levels of the 2004 green but there’s is plenty of wine here so my remaining bottles will stay at least 10 years in the cellar – if the green fades into the background it will be an excellent wine.
Rebuy – Maybe