Harvests

29th august – wet côtes

By billn on August 29, 2007 #vintage 2007

la tache harvest
Harvesting in La Tâche

I left Switzerland at 7:00am – accompanied by thunder and lightening.

It’s 240km to Dijon where the BBC assured me I would find unbroken sunshine, but for the first 200 of those kilometres it rained – sometimes biblically. 40km to go and the rain stopped, 25km to go and we even have traces of blue sky and flashes of sun – amazing! It’s obviously rained overnight in the Côte d’Or and it’s hardly unbroken sunshine either but I’m not complaining.

grapesI started my tour of ‘vine inspection’ in Marsannay, slowly working my way south. Lunch at La Maison Vigneron (Chambolle), after lunch an appointment with a producer before continuing south to my harvest ‘home’ in Beaune.

The grapes in the Côte de Nuits look rather good, there are some shrivelled ones and an occasional bunch with rot, but this cursury inspection implied grapes way better than 2004 and possibly also 2006 – but inspection at the ‘table de trie’ will be the real judge as these are the grapes round the edges of the vineyards – I didn’t go deeper for fear of sinking in the wet red clay!
Eye-witnesses tell me the Côte de Beaune pinot noir is less well blessed – I decided not to check in the rain – Beaune and Savigny will apparently be ‘challenging’.

There is some small evidence of harvesting already done – piles of stems discarded outside cuveries and at the side of vineyards, but it’s clearly the exception so far. This morning I found only three groups of harvesters, the first surprisingly were in La Tâche; I thought at first it was La Grande Rue, but the LGR vineyard is only about 50 metres wide and these harvesters confirmed to me that they were working on the other side of the ‘line’ – you can not a slight colour change on the picture above. This central area of La Tâche is planted to a higher density – I assume this accounts for the difference in ripeness. The harvesting of a parcel of Vosne Les Beaux Monts (at least that’s what it looked like from the road) and also part of Les Petits Vougeots were the only others in full swing.

Whilst in the cellar of my afternoon appointment there was was thunder and heavy rain – it’s still raining now (6pm) about 3 hours later. I’m glad we didn’t start harvesting today.

Forecasters seem to agree that we have about 10 days of clear weather starting tomorrow, we will start with some Beaune 1er Cru, – let’s see how bad it can be.

itchy grape-sorting fingers

By billn on August 28, 2007 #vintage 2007

Tomorrow I’m in the Côtes.

graphMy normal harvest ‘home’ will start with minor appellations on Thursday so I will have plenty of time tomorrow to look around the vineyards and see the plight – or not – of the grapes. I know that some have already started their harvests, while others tell me:

“We will begin the 4th of September, we must wait, it’s not enough ripe everywhere. The weather forecasts are not bad so we take the risk …”

Certainly the weather was poor last week, but this week and next it is set fair (allegedly!) but still rather cool for the time of the year, exemplified by the graph above (which I stole from Météo Savigny-lès-Beaune) that shows you how much colder August has been vs the average!

Updates over the next couple of days.

no bans, outlook and weather

By billn on August 16, 2007 #vintage 2007

weatherThis year is a ‘revolution’ in Burgundy – there are no ‘bans des vendanges’ – rather it is expected that everyone can be (act) ‘responsible’! The only decree was that the harvesting shouldn’t start before the 13th August, August 1st was initially suggested before reverting to the 13th – revolutions come hard!

Despite the weather maps showing clear for the next days, and in spite of daily weather reports looking almost good, the storms keep coming through. Wednesday (lastnight) had another heavy downpour for much of the Côte d’Or. It seems many still plan to start their harvest during the last days of August, others are scheduling September. Here’s one quote

“As we have a very bad summer (lots of rain), we are going to pick around 3-4 of September, I prefer that to be honest! Rot begins to be important now, it looks like a difficult vintage, but I like that !! 05 was too easy …”

harvest 2007 – ‘steady as she goes…’

By billn on July 30, 2007 #vintage 2007

From Berry Bros & Rudd website:

18, July. It’s all doom and gloom in the press at the moment with reports coming in thick and fast that there might not even be a harvest in Bordeaux or Burgundy. In actual fact, many vineyards are looking healthy and happy with a very early harvest predicted.

This is in part thanks to a beautiful April which prompted early flowering, with the combination of rain and sun successfully managing to prolong the vines growth cycle.

Dominique Lafon reports a little mildew in one vineyard, and localized hail damage has been reported in St Aubin, Beaune and Chablis, but there has been nothing too dramatic thus far and the general outlook is good.

This may in part be due to the recent cold weather which has prevented the mildew damage from spreading further.”

bbc weather

Clearly the weather has been quite sunny for the (almost) two weeks since they posted this piece, with only about 1-2 days with rain in every 10.

Humidity has been quite high, but the fact that it’s not been too hot (only 22-28°C) has provided relief from rot. Clearly, many producers have taken a belts and braces approach, and have been doing as much spraying of copper sulphate solution onto their vines as possible as a safeguard.

We are now around 1 month from harvesting – perhaps less – and we are fast approaching a ‘classic’ vintage in the best (non pejorative) sense of that word. Plenty of sunlight and enough heat for ripening, better still – coupled to cooler nights – I find uniformly hot weather wines very one dimensional, at least in their youth.

Many fingers remain crossed.

july, not august, will be the key…

By billn on July 13, 2007 #vintage 2007

today and forecastThere’s an old saying – “it’s August that makes the vintage”. Well, this year not; it was so precocious a start to the year that the normal 100 days from flowering to harvesting points to an August rather than September vendanges. So this year it will be July that to a large extent ‘makes the vintage’.

The forecast for the next days will gladden the heart of all the vignerons. Much of June and July to-date has been a succession of wet, warm, wet, sun then wet again – the main punctuation in the weather has been the thunder and hail. Unfortunately this means not enough sun to chase away the damp so rot is a problem. In some regions even hardened biodynamic types have had to become pragmatic and use chemical approaches to save any crop.

Anyway, provided we can get an extended dry period – and this wind will also help – all is most certainly not lost. Even a couple of weeks more and it would be a sad vendanges, but today there is still hope…

49° aux soleil

By billn on June 10, 2007 #degustation#vintage 2007

vosne combe brulees in june 2007
Looking down the hill over Vosne-Romanée La Combe Brûlée – it may be only 31°C in the shade, but at 3:00pm the thermometer in the direct sun registered 49°C. By 4:15pm the sky was full of thunder and lightening and the rain came – life was much improved at the tasting I attended – 24°C was enough for everyone! The winemakers have already pencilled-in late August for harvesting this year, but much can happen before that.

I think I’m a slow taster – there was at least 100 wines, but I only managed write something for 77 of them – I needed food after 2 of three tables – coming back ‘refreshed’ someone had drunk all the Richebourg and Musigny – c’est la vie! Anyway I add three notes for you, a white, a Côte de Beaune and a Côte de Nuits:
1997 Domaine Olivier Merlin, Macon la Roche Vineuse Vieilles Vignestry to find this wine...
(Magnum) Pale yellow. The nose is slightly yeasty but fresh enough behind. Ripe palate with unassuming acidity. Tasty with some depth too. The finish lingers well enough. This is nice wine.
Rebuy – Yes
1997 Domaine du Clos Salomon, Givrey 1er Clos Salomontry to find this wine...
(Magnum) Medium ruby-red. High-toned nose that is ripe though with a trace of ‘funk’. Plenty of strawberry depth on the palate. Long, nicely integrated acidity and still some drying acidity on the finish.
Rebuy – Maybe
1997 Domaine de l’Arlot, Nuits St.Georges 1er Clos des Fôrets St.Georgestry to find this wine...
Sweet, smoky stems on the nose. Plenty of high-toned fruit in the mouth couples with equally density of fine tannins. Long and interesting, this is pleasant, balanced and showing very young
Rebuy – Maybe

in the côtes

By billn on May 15, 2007 #travel#vintage 2007

fixin may 2007I arrived today for 4 days in the Côtes, only to be greeted by April weather.

Whilst April was more like June – warm and dry with very fast vine growth that pushed forward some of the flowering into the equally warm first two weeks of May – mid-May has seen a break in the weather; it’s turned to 14°C with April showers and there’s intermittent hail in the mix too. Given that hail arrived in the south just after the setting of the flowers, and in the north just before flowering (mainly) we can (so far) reasonably expect only some diminshing of the yields.

The unpruned vines are close to 1.5 metres tall ~5 feet – that’s almost 3 times more growth than normal – it’s been a nightmare for people trying to de-bud…

Only one tasting today – in Fixin at Pierre Gelin. Tomorrow I increase the load a little with 2+ visits, peaking on Thursday with 4-6, ‘coming down’ again on Friday (only 2) before heading back to (currently) rainy and cold Switzerland.

More info to follow – if interesting!
Cheers

friday, it’s the last harvest notes…

By billn on September 29, 2006 #vintage 2006

let them eat cakeFriday: As the harvest closes we can now take time out to eat cake!

There was a chance for some sorting on Saturday and Sunday, but given perfect harvest conditions in the last few days coupled with a forecast for rain at the weekend, people have worked double-time and are aiming to finish (probably late) today. So I won’t go this weekend.

Yesterday’s grapes from Charmes-Chambertin went through the triage table very easily, and today the Gevrey-Chambertin and Latricières-Chambertin likewise – and that’s quite an acheivement given that the grapes from this grower are not usually the best, but this year the Latricières was better than 2005. As I’m typing this the Chambertin grapes are being picked and should arrive at the domaine in the early evening – these will be the last arrivals apart for some Hautes Côtes de Beaune later next week.

This producer (at least) feels so much happier after the Côte de Nuits harvest than he did after the Côte de Beaune. He heard from a friend that August gave the Côte de Beaune three times more rain (100mm) than the Côte de Nuits (30mm) – this (we) he has to check – but if so, it amply shows why there was more rot in the south.

So 2006 in summary: Potentially very good whites. Côte de Beaune reds (the grapes) closer to 2004 than 2005 quality. Corton seems to have had excellent quality grapes of both colours. Côte de Nuits grapes (on average) slightly below 2005 quality, but in some places higher. For the wines we will have to wait a little. It was a mix of hot and cold during the year so this will hopefully provide a full spectrum of flavours – I can’t wait!
Cheers

PS What better post-script than to have the words of Aubert de Villaine:

Concernant les vendanges, nous ne sommes pas du tout déçus. Nous avons récolté des raisins à haute maturité (avec des teneurs en sucre parmi les plus élevées de ces dernières années) et nous avons réussi à mettre en place un tri proche de la perfection ! Je suis optimiste quant au résultat.

Or, if you prefer, my reprehensible attempt at translation:

Concerning the grape harvest, we are not at all disappointed. We collected grapes with high maturity (sugar contents were among highest of recent years) and with sorting we came close to perfection! I am optimistic for the result.

[EDIT] PPS – I also found these great posts by Jeremy Seysses of Dujac on the very, very nice Chez Pim site:

thursday…

By billn on September 28, 2006 #vintage 2006

pumping overThursday: The early grapes (at least at this producer, and note that we are talking about pinot noir) were visually a little disappointing; the Beaunes the Savignys the Bourgogne – all were difficult and needed a hard triage. What remained was ripe enough but didn’t instill a sense of excitement.

What came in after some wonderful Corton Chaumes on Monday was a big improvement versus the previous week and lifted our excitement levels; the Santenay was nice, as was the village Vosne-Romanée and some Volnay 1er Taillepieds too – much less sorting was needed.

Yesterday the Corton Rognets grapes were super, very close to the level of Monday’s Chaumes – with the right growers you will have very lovely wines from Corton in 2006 – and from both colours too. Nuits 1er Vaucrains grapes were also excellent, requiring very little triage. This afternoon the grapes from Charmes-Chambertin are expected.

Tomorrow it will be Gevrey-Chambertin and Latricières-Chambertin.

The grapes have been coming into the winery quite cool in a morning and are being triaged in nice working conditions, i.e. ~20°C, sunny and dry – perhaps this week’s lack of rain has also helped improve the excitement levels – at least together with higher phenolic ripeness and (typically all) brown lignified pips seen in this second week.

There’s just a slight chance that we could be finishing up on Sunday as there is still some Hautes Côtes to think about, if so I will be back onsite Saturday and Sunday.

Burgundy Report

Translate »

You are using an outdated browser. Please update your browser to view this website correctly: https://browsehappy.com/;