Tasted in Volnay with Guillaume and Sarah Glantenay, 12 November 2018.
Domaine Georges Glantenay
3 Rue de la Barre
21190 Volnay
Tel: +33 3 80 21 61 82
www.domaineglantenay.com/
Guillaume & Sarah on 2018:
“2018 – A vintage that was excellent, balanced and probably more than in 17, certainly more concentrated – one of those rare vintages that all went well. Water at the start of the vintage, sun, wind, a characteristic of vintage that brought lovely things. We started 27 August for white, took 2 a day break from the vines then started our reds on the 30th.”
Guillaume & Sarah on 2017:
“Started 30th August on white, 31st on red so not a big difference, but it was harder in the vines in 2017, the cleanliness in the vines was lower – not to complain about – but vs 2018 certainly on a lower order. There was a little more wine in 2017 – and we did a big green harvest in June – it’s important to try to set your yield early, but you have to keep your fingers crossed that there are no climate incidents that follow!
“For us it’s a normal, correct volume vintage; 50-55 hl/ha for the Bourgogne 45-50 hl/ha for villages and 40 hl/ha or so for the 1ers…”
The wines…
This domaine was decimated last year, but this year they have bounced back with some very excellent wines and even some great wines. A super, lesser-know address, but definitely worth your time in 2017.
2017 Bourgogne Maison Dieu
Vines next to the Chateau de Pommard on the other side of the RN – ’25 June bottled as we had nothing to sell – all the rest remain in tank for now. Also because like to keep this fruit.’ About 3k bottles
Nice depth of colour. Lovely red fruit invitation from the nose. Vibrant, very good concentration for a Bourgogne in this vintage. Intense, very fruited – long tasty but with a proper structure. Excellent also with a nice black licorice finish!
1.8 hectares worth from 9 different parcels – all below the 1er crus, 15-80 years old vines…
Good depth of colour too. Fresher, more cushioned red fruit – here cushioned with a hint of oak. Round, supple, fresh and concentrated – ooh this is really excellent! Long – richness of flavour but richness delivered too – Bravo!
2017 Pommard
A more toasty depth of darker fruit. More width on the palate – a little cushioned but less than the Volnay. Intensity and super depth of flavour – wait for this one while you’re drinking the Volnay – Excellent and very long again…
2017 Chambolle-Musigny
Deep, suggesting a hint of reduction. More incisive, beautifully structured, but like the nose framed by some reduction today. Beautifully broad, slightly floral finishing. Long and licorice like the previous wines.
2017 Volnay 1er Roncerets
Lost all in 2016.
A hint less colour. Hmm, not so wide but such a lovely and composed depth of aroma. Rounder, sweeter, but with a fine line of flavour too. Intense finishing – ooh that’s good. Another excellent wine…
A touch more colour to this. More fruit here – wide and red, fresh red – very primary but very inviting too. Hmm a beautiful palate, faintly accented by oak – but beautiful melting red fruit, more strawberry than cherry. Ooh – I’d start drinking this now – bravo!
2017 Volnay 1er Santenots
0.4 hectares from Dessous
A vibrant nose but more oak than fruit today – just a very pretty red note right at the end. Hmm, a beautiful line of flavour on the palate – oaked for sure but the texture and shape of this wine are very lovely indeed. An elegant wine for Santenots but lacking no concentration. Lovely…
Hmm – a freshness of redder-red fruit aroma – very appealing. Hmm – directly yes! Fresher, more direct, great energy – such a dynamic wine – some oak to super finish but that’s incidental. Great wine – such delicious fun.
Fresh, certainly more floral – pretty red berries, faintly oaked. An extra depth of richer texture and concentration vs the Combes but still a wine of abundant energy. Ooh that’s good again. So broad and tasty a finish – and hardly a note of oak to see in the finish – Bravo.
2017 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Feuselottes
The first vintage here, bought in grapes – a long contract.
Hmm – a nose that’s very different – mineral and saline to augment the base of rather red fruit. Hmm more sleek and direct, a fine attack that ripples at from the core – beautiful texture the most modest of tannin texture though there’s plenty of tannin. Many dimensions of finishing flavour. Excellent and very floral finishing.