Tasted in Curtil-Vergy with Axelle Machard de Gramont, 27 November, 2018.
Domaine Bertrand Machard de Gramont
13 Rue de Vergy
Tel: +33 3 80 61 16 96
Axelle on 2018:
We made more in 2018 than in 2017, and that’s despite being touched by a little frost – as it turns out, we hadn’t pruned the top of the vines and so it seems that because of that, the vines were actually quite well protected!
Axelle on 2017:
“2017 is the return to a classic, balanced and fluid vintage.
“2017 was quite an abundant vintage. We saw lots of images and comments about big volumes, but here in organic agriculture, with hard terrain and older vines, not to mention the competition that we invariably have with the weeds, particularly when there has been early rain like in 2017, plus that had to replant a part after the frost of 2016 and all the work of weeding around them – plus the repicage – All that means that we never have a big harvest in these circumstances. We harvested a little before many other domaines too.
“All the wines are still in barrel, except the Grand Chaillots, which has now been assembled.”
Such a beautiful range of hauntingly pretty wines – I don’t always want impact – but I want a mixed case of these!
2017 Bourgogne Les Grands Chaillots
Vines under Nuits with deep soil and some clay; iron stones that help drainage. Frosted in 2009 so partly replanted afterwards.
Yes – a fine and airy nose, modest intensity but lovely open aromas. Hmm, depth, the entry is a little simple but the depth and growing weight of fine, fresh, almost saline flavour are super. The merest touch of tannin in the finish. A wine whose interest seems to appreciate every time I return to the glass.
2017 Nuits St.Georges Les Terrasses de Vallerots
‘2 hectares and really it’s a unique parcel – it wasn’t planted with vines before, so never chemically treated.’ About a quarter new oak. Only 30 hl/ha.
More colour, More weight of aroma and framed with a little spice. Also in the mouth the oak spice is evident but this is a mix of a newer and older barrel, so more oak than the final blend will see. Super dark cherry, open and mouth-watering in the finish. Very elegant wine.
0.5 hectares. Gets the rising but not the setting sun. Above Vaucrains but really opposite Poulets
Super perfume here – really a great invitation. Fresh, a wine of drive and energy, elegant, focused, shimmeringly beautiful wine. Bravo! And holding such a beautiful finish too, whose flavour reminds me of almond – like a Taillepieds or a Grands-Echézeaux…
A deeper nose, slightly darker fruit, also perfumed, but deeper. Rounder, fuller, a little more tannin – only a touch – lovely intensity. A wine with a little more weight and impact, but not better than Les Vallerots, simply different.
2017 Nuits St.Georges Aux Allots
Next to Grandes Vignes in northern Nuits, touching Vosne. 0.92 hectares of multiple vine ages up to 100 years-old – the oldest vines of the domaine.
Less wide, but this is a deeper aroma, also with a darker, deeper perfume. Nice volume, a depth of open flavour, stony fruit, fresh, layered wine that’s sooo good!
0.60 hectares over 4 parcels; Champs Boudin, Aux Ormes below, the Bas Mazières heading towards the Clos de Vougeot, plus Barreaux near Cros Parentoux.
Wide and pretty, faintly spiced, slowly adding a fine perfume. Ooh here the texture is extra and the depth of spiced flavour is also extra. Comforting, contemplative. A beautiful wine to round off a beautiful range.