des Croix – 2017


Tasted in Beaune with David Croix, 08 November, 2018.

Domaine des Croix
2 Rue Colbert
21200 Beaune
Tel: +33 3 80 22 41 81

David Croix on 2018:
I would say a good vintage. The wines are not yet through malo, and I’m sure they will show a sunny character – we had a bit of drought too. I’m curious to see what style the vintage will have – I can’t read that yet, but they have good balance and they have great aromatics.

David Croix on 2017:
​In 2017 we went in every vineyard to do some leaf plucking, and where we thought we should, we dropped some clusters too. Given the balance and the sugars, I’m glad that I did. Despite that, in Beaune 1er Cru Cent Vignes there was still maybe about 5 hl/ha more yield than I would have liked – of-course a level that was still allowed – but I anyway decided to make a saignée. My average yield was 45 hl/ha so after the many low-yielding previous vintages it was necessary to recalibrate! More fruit, not super-concentrated or dark coloured, but super healthy fruit that was ripe and balanced – certainly red-fruit vintage – we haven’t had a vintage like this for a long time. It’s not the most sophisticated but like a blend of 2000 and 2002 and I find the balance and fruit are simply super.

“It’s the first time I’ve elevaged a vintage here without two winters in elevage, but the first few wines that we taste were so delicious and apparently so ready, I decided to bottle them – so they were done in the last days. It really feels great to finally have some wine!

The wines…

Another great set of wines at this Beaune domaine. I note more elegance in some wines, to which David responded ‘Yes we have a bit more vigour eventually in the vines and I have more finesse – it’s not about dilution it’s about returning to wines that have energy. I like what I’ve done in the last years, but with the lack of vigour, there could have been better energy.’

2017 Beaune
About 15% wc
Good colour. Round. Ripe, highly attractive red fruit. Almost crunchy red fruit but with a depth of cushioned texture. Floral on the end of the palate. Great villages!
2017 Aloxe-Corton Boutières
All destemmed
A very crunchy red fruit nose – fresh and inviting. Hmm – depth, layered wine, such pure fruit. Vibrant, red fruit – oh, this might be even more drinkable than the last – another great villages!

2017 Beaune 1er Cent Vignes
Only 10% whole cluster but the impression is more from the aromas.
Lots more floral whole cluster – lovely. More drive and line, almost a mineral style to the energy, the fruit is something that develops rather than hitting you in the face like the last wines.

2017 Beaune 1er Tuvillains
Ex Champy via some Paris investors… there was also some in 2016 – almost – which went into the generic 1er. Old vines. This one in tank for January bottling.
Hmm, deep and with a nice width of aroma too. Hmm, much higher-toned with intense fruit here – really an intensity. Layers, small waves of finishing flavour too. Yes!

2017 Beaune 1er Grèves
25% wc
A big nose, floral, roses, red fruit below – lots of volume. Hmm, this has great energy, perfect pure fruit but it vibrates with complexity and energy. Electric finishing. So much more elegant than this wine usually shows. It is simply excellent.

All the following wines are still in barrel:

2017 Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Peuillets
20% wc
The wc is not really visible (smellable?) to start, but there’s a deep, profound darker red fruit nose, slowly a little rose-petal coming into view. Supple, a little harder structurally but not much, delightful red fruit, mouth-watering over the palate. Great Savigny!

2017 Beaune 1er Bressandes
A bright and open perfume here – very attractive – deep spicy, is mulberry still a thing? Hmm, a more composed palate but with very fine energy, rippling flavour that of modest width but not length – super.

2017 Beaune 1er Pertuisots
A cool area, with shallow topsoil closer to Pommard. ​
Oh – there’s something about the aroma of this wine that always gets me – and here it is gain – sooo good. Who cares about the 20% whole bunch(?) Shimmering flavour, energy but not too, a touch of tannin but not too, a little finishing mineral identity at the end – just a perfect alround wine – Bravo!

2017 Corton Vigne Au Saint
40% whole bunch. Still the lowest yield here in 2017 afer being ravaged by frost in 2016
Ooh definitely not the broadest nose but one of simply fabulous clarity. Vibrant, red fruited – width, a certain strength, a twist of oak but very modest. A little volume/power…

2017 Corton Grèves
A little deeper, some spice, less width. Fuller, more layered, delicious, plenty of intensity, good structure here – drink or keep – both will work! Excellent wine.

2017 Corton-Charlemagne
A nose of depth, still a little lees, but a certain agrume style to the fruit. Hmm, lots of mouth-filling energy, layers and ever mobile flavours. Long, a long slow diminuendo.Very persistent… Excellent Charlemagne.

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