Tasted in Saint Aubin with Olivier Lamy, 27 August, 2016.
Domaine Hubert Lamy
20 rue des Lavières
Tel: +33 3 80 21 32 55
Father, Hubert, started with 1 hectare in a garage, and 30 years ago it was 80% red wine produced here – a world of difference compared to today…
Olivier on the vintages:
Last year Olivier told me: “The 2015 vintage was very dry, so it was a challenge to keep good freshness as the grape maturity changed very quickly at the end. I used very little sulfur, 15 days fermentation. The whites had good lees so were very easy to decant. Let’s see. Overall a 90% whole cluster ripe vintage for the reds and I’ll try to use no new oak in the whites.” As you will see, it seems that he mostly made the right choices! This year Olivier notes It was a massive work in the vines and pruning to keep the energy I think. In these 2015s I don’t find the stress of 2005, nor the richness of 2009.
And on 2016?
“Well, it’s going to be hard to find the right picking time, as there’s so much less fruit, in the last days it will ripen very quickly.”
Well I can honestly say that his cellar is a triumph for these 2015s. The reds are fine, fleshy but fresh, but the whites are a real tour-de-force with energy and extract but retaining a fabulous beam of life-giving acidity. I found the majority of the wines in the cellar exceptional – it is really a don’t miss address in 2015.
2015 St.Aubin Cuvée Paradis – red
2 parcels, all destemmed. ‘Some sulfur was added 2 weeks ago, so the colour is a little light.’
A very bright fruit aromatic. In the mouth this is big, bright, and with lovely layers of flavour with freshness – and good length too.
2015 Santenay Clos des Hâtes
Harvested 4-5 days before the Saint Aubin, and lots more stems were used here.
Deeper colour. A deep layered nose, dark but still fresh fruit. More structure, a little tannin, intense flavours.
2015 Chassagne-Montrachet Clos de la Goujonne
From 65 year-old vines, made with 80-90 % stems.
A floral note adds to the fruit. Big, fresh, a fine ripe tannin for texture. A little licorice in the finish too.
2015 St.Aubin 1er Derrière Chez Eduard
From 56 year-old vines on a steep slope. 80% stems used, ‘with very small berries, always a mineral wine.’
A more direct, but fine fruit aroma. Intense, wide fruit, bright attack, a more elegantly long finish. Excellent.
2015 Santenay 1er Clos des Gravières
A warm area that matures very fast. 40 year-old vines here, 80% whole clusters used.
A more modest intensity red fruit. Rounder, more obvious fineness today, creamy fruit. And very long too.
From hill above St.Aubin, no new barrels, all large barrels, limestone and a dry soil, the last to harvest – no sulfur used yet !
A hint of apple, some freshness. Lovely intensity, a saline acidity impression. Super clarity. Really a wow bourgogne!
2015 St.Aubin La Princée
10 different parcels, with multiple exposures and vine ages
Vibrant, mineral, subtly reduced nose. Rounder, but finely fresh, super waves of mouth-watering – ooh, this is lovely…
2015 Chassagne-Montrachet Le Concis du Champs
Young vines, only 12 years old. A wine that fermented for 1 year.
Modest reduction. Fuller, richer, bright energy. Bright and long a long slow wave of flavour rolling over the palate – super!
A blend of 40 year-old and 70 year-old fruit – more 40…
A nice floral note. Bigger, but really this has a wonderful wave of acid-led, mineral flavour. Superb!
2015 Santenay 1er Clos des Gravières Blanc
Very young vines in a sort of continuation of the Clos de Tavannes. A mix of two vine-ages, one large part (actually 90%) only 5 years old.
A little reduction. Godd volume, silky texture, reminds me of the red in these respects. Tasty.
2015 St.Aubin 1er Clos du Meix
0.7 metres planting distance here – so 14,000/ha planting density. Vines sited below the church.
A subtle reduction. Plenty of gas, but slowly growing waves of fresh flavour. Really intense and concentrated in the mid-palate. The biggest for sure – so far!
Not the ‘hd’ cuvée, but this is still planted at 14k/ha
Fresh, almost reductive. Lovely, layers, fresh layers, but intense, salted layers – ooh-so gorgeous!
80 and 5 year-old vines.
Modest reduction. Fabulous intensity, a hint of CO2, almost hard to keep in the mouth. Bravo – no pain, no gain! What a brilliant line of flavour – almost tart, but I love it.
Old vines that produce small berries, ‘more character.’
A little perfume here. Big-flavoured, but detailed and complex too. Just fills me with oohs and ahhs…
Vibrant, clean. Wow! You want more? Okay, okay, also fabulous complextiy enery and seemingly a life-force. Just great!
2015 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Les Macherelles
Greener fruit, this nose a little closed. A hint richer but what a great and fine energy. Just so impressive. Really bursting with intense fruit in the finish.
Also hint of greener fruit. A little more volume a little less richness, absolutely the best complexity and fresh energy. Just wow!
Also like the non-hd, a little floral. Volume of layered flavour, a hint of reductive vibration in the mid-palate. Just top wine!
A vibrant and still mineral nose. A hint of gas on the palate. Just wonderful waves of flavour here – for the lucky few!
2015 Criots-Bâtard Montrachet Haute Densité
This grand cru is now planted at high density – 24 thousand vines per hectare! 2013 was the first vintage labelled ‘HD’ – only 1 barrel’s worth, so no big barrel.
Perfumed and sweet. Bigger and richer. Not better but certainly worth searching for 😉