Tasted in Puligny with Jean-Michel Chartron, the 17th October, 2015.
Domaine Jean Chartron
8 Bis Grande Rue
Tel: +33 3 80 21 99 19
Jean-Michel on 2016:
“Actually, much better than expected, indeed I’d say it was a good surprise. Clearly we don’t have an exceptional volume, but the September rain was a little miracle as we went from almost nothing to harvest, to something! Clos des Caillerets was similarly affected to Montrachet – so not so good – yet the Clos de Pucelles below was quite okay. Both the Chassagne and the Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune were very low yielding; only 4 hl/ha for the Bourgogne. But we had no rot, indeed we had good grapes. We started our harvest about the 20th and had a good level of acidity. ”
Jean-Michel on 2015:
“three cuvées are already bottled; the Bourgogne Chardonnay, the Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune and the Rully. The rest have been on collage (fining) since September, so that’s mainly sunk. I like the wines, I’m sure that it was good to harvest early. The volumes are a little low side, perhaps 80% of good. It was the second time in the decade we harvested from the end of August.”
DIAM is still only for the entry-level wines at this address, the cork from Trescases – but there are some studies with the higher wines too. The prices of the 2014s and 2015s will also stay the same, as the volume of 2016 was a decent surprise.
I was on quite a high after tasting the wines of Olivier Lamy, I have a similar feeling today! I had preconceived ideas of what 2015 whites might be like – but the wines, so far, and at addresses such as these, really don’t match those ideas!
2015 Bourgogne Chardonnay
Mainly from around Puligny, near the rn74
A hint of oak, wide and with some weight. Clearly some richness, but there’s weight and balance to that flavour too. Lots of dry extract – this is big wine, but finishes tenaciously. Frankly, this is yum!
Bottled, by the lunar calendar. From Nantoux.
A little biscuit and some faint reduction. More direct, mineral, lithe, super line of flavour – this is top! Also, for the label there are excellent dimensions of super finishing flavour. Really bravo!
2015 Rully Montmorans
From a 3.5 hectare, single parcel – indeed the largest single parcel of the domaine. The elevage was in barrels but with a proportion of larger barrels too. Also in bottle
A little more citrus on the nose. More direct and mineral again – a growing intensity and very good dimensions of flavour once more. A hint more strict and saline but with a great finish. Super!
The following tasted from tank:
2015 Santenay Blanc
This nose has a nice dimension of yellow citrus aroma. Saline and complex, nice layers of flavour here. Excellent!
2015 Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Pimontières
Almost a Chablis green – despite 20% new barrels. A little tighter nose, but with some weight behind, very modestly phenolic. Also in the mouth – super flavour dimension here, indeed explosive, saline and really tasty…
2015 Pernand-Vergelesses Les Belles Filles
A much more floral nose – this is a very pretty thing indeed. Faintly reductive, a very different flavour-set. Here’s a nice finishing burst again – I’m very impressed.
A plot bought from Château Pommard in 2008.
A very fine citrus nose of really engaging precision. Line, mineral, fine acidity – growing intensity – gorgeous finish – wow!
25% new oak, like most.
A squeeky-clean nose. An extra sweetness but no loss of balance – super citrus and minerality. Very tasty indeed. Just an added minerality in the finish.
2015 Meursault Les Pierres
A blend of parcels on the hill towards Puligny.
Here with a faint reduction. Some gas too but with width, freshness and a nice expression too.
2015 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Benoîtes
Yes, chassagne herbs and a lovely clarity of aroma. Also a hint of CO2 but it’s muscular and concentrated yet with super acidity and balance. A super burst of long finishing flavour too – yum!
Three parcels with a hint of 1er from the Meursault side. Mainly Sous la Velle, Levrons and Rue Rousseau, plus some must from colleagues as I own only a dozen ouvrees.
A lovely yellow nose of some depth. Fine texture, mineral too. Great citrus acidity – simply another excellent wine. Super finishing line too…
JMC loves this vineyard, but needs to be uprooted as it was very hard hit by frost. Despite that, it achieved 15-16 hl/ha, including with a little hail 14 July. Some vine degeneration near the top – Esca coudrayant – vine dries itself in 2 weeks…
A little modest, but a fabulously complex nose – the most puligny of Chassagne! Energy, weight and balance – a wine to search for – bravo! a fabulous finish too!
More floral, less obvious complexity. Fresher, vivant, just a gorgeous energy – another wow wine. Wide, encompassing, hugs you as it departs – gorgeous!
Less touched by frost in 2016 – 30 hl/ha.
Here is a different style, modestly agrume. Nothing modest about the energy – wow! – what a collection of wines here this year. Weight but also dimension and freshness. Bravo!
An aromatic equidistant between the Folatieres and Pucelles. Lots of energy, floral notes, mineral notes, extra dimension and depth – Grand Cru quality no doubt…
The first wine tasted from barrel.
Weight, faint yellow citrus, yet modest. A little CO2, layers and layers of flavour – massive – wow – but never lumpen. Fabulous!
A deeper nose, again yellow fruit, modest but such depth. Lots of flavour dimension here, plenty of oak too, but a burst of finishing flavour – again, wow wine.
A lighter, more complex nose of flowers and minerals. An oilier texture, but massive minerals, palate-munching wine of fabulous concentration here. Wow! Exceptional finishing too… I swallowed!
Here a 1-year-old barrel – the single barrel..
A big bright nose of ripe fruit and a deeper suggestion of minerality. Vibrant, some minerality, incredible weight/concentration and fat – yet never without balance. Exceptionally long, yet if I had to choose one of these last two, without doubt it would be an easy win for the Chevalier…