Jean Chartron – 2015


dsc01446Tasted in Puligny with Jean-Michel Chartron, the 17th October, 2015.

Domaine Jean Chartron
8 Bis Grande Rue
21190 Puligny-Montrachet
Tel: +33 3 80 21 99 19

Jean-Michel on 2016:
Actually, much better than expected, indeed I’d say it was a good surprise. Clearly we don’t have an exceptional volume, but the September rain was a little miracle as we went from almost nothing to harvest, to something! Clos des Caillerets was similarly affected to Montrachet – so not so good – yet the Clos de Pucelles below was quite okay. Both the Chassagne and the Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune were very low yielding; only 4 hl/ha for the Bourgogne. But we had no rot, indeed we had good grapes. We started our harvest about the 20th and had a good level of acidity.

Jean-Michel on 2015:
three cuvées are already bottled; the Bourgogne Chardonnay, the Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune and the Rully. The rest have been on collage (fining) since September, so that’s mainly sunk. I like the wines, I’m sure that it was good to harvest early. The volumes are a little low side, perhaps 80% of good. It was the second time in the decade we harvested from the end of August.

The wines…

DIAM is still only for the entry-level wines at this address, the cork from Trescases – but there are some studies with the higher wines too. The prices of the 2014s and 2015s will also stay the same, as the volume of 2016 was a decent surprise.

I was on quite a high after tasting the wines of Olivier Lamy, I have a similar feeling today! I had preconceived ideas of what 2015 whites might be like – but the wines, so far, and at addresses such as these, really don’t match those ideas!

2015 Bourgogne Chardonnay
Mainly from around Puligny, near the rn74
A hint of oak, wide and with some weight. Clearly some richness, but there’s weight and balance to that flavour too. Lots of dry extract – this is big wine, but finishes tenaciously. Frankly, this is yum!

2015 Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune Blanc
Bottled, by the lunar calendar. From Nantoux.
A little biscuit and some faint reduction. More direct, mineral, lithe, super line of flavour – this is top! Also, for the label there are excellent dimensions of super finishing flavour. Really bravo!

2015 Rully Montmorans
From a 3.5 hectare, single parcel – indeed the largest single parcel of the domaine. The elevage was in barrels but with a proportion of larger barrels too. Also in bottle
A little more citrus on the nose. More direct and mineral again – a growing intensity and very good dimensions of flavour once more. A hint more strict and saline but with a great finish. Super!

The following tasted from tank:

2015 Santenay Blanc
This nose has a nice dimension of yellow citrus aroma. Saline and complex, nice layers of flavour here. Excellent!

2015 Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Pimontières
Almost a Chablis green – despite 20% new barrels. A little tighter nose, but with some weight behind, very modestly phenolic. Also in the mouth – super flavour dimension here, indeed explosive, saline and really tasty…

2015 Pernand-Vergelesses Les Belles Filles
A much more floral nose – this is a very pretty thing indeed. Faintly reductive, a very different flavour-set. Here’s a nice finishing burst again – I’m very impressed.

2015 St.Aubin 1er Les Perrières
A plot bought from Château Pommard in 2008.
A very fine citrus nose of really engaging precision. Line, mineral, fine acidity – growing intensity – gorgeous finish – wow!
2015 St.Aubin 1er Les Murgers des Dents de Chien
25% new oak, like most.
A squeeky-clean nose. An extra sweetness but no loss of balance – super citrus and minerality. Very tasty indeed. Just an added minerality in the finish.

2015 Meursault Les Pierres
A blend of parcels on the hill towards Puligny.
Here with a faint reduction. Some gas too but with width, freshness and a nice expression too.

2015 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Benoîtes
Yes, chassagne herbs and a lovely clarity of aroma. Also a hint of CO2 but it’s muscular and concentrated yet with super acidity and balance. A super burst of long finishing flavour too – yum!

2015 Puligny-Montrachet
Three parcels with a hint of 1er from the Meursault side. Mainly Sous la Velle, Levrons and Rue Rousseau, plus some must from colleagues as I own only a dozen ouvrees.
A lovely yellow nose of some depth. Fine texture, mineral too. Great citrus acidity – simply another excellent wine. Super finishing line too…

2015 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Les Caillerets
JMC loves this vineyard, but needs to be uprooted as it was very hard hit by frost. Despite that, it achieved 15-16 hl/ha, including with a little hail 14 July. Some vine degeneration near the top – Esca coudrayant – vine dries itself in 2 weeks…
A little modest, but a fabulously complex nose – the most puligny of Chassagne! Energy, weight and balance – a wine to search for – bravo! a fabulous finish too!
2015 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Folatières
More floral, less obvious complexity. Fresher, vivant, just a gorgeous energy – another wow wine. Wide, encompassing, hugs you as it departs – gorgeous!
2015 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Clos de la Pucelle
Less touched by frost in 2016 – 30 hl/ha.
Here is a different style, modestly agrume. Nothing modest about the energy – wow! – what a collection of wines here this year. Weight but also dimension and freshness. Bravo!
2015 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Clos des Caillerets
An aromatic equidistant between the Folatieres and Pucelles. Lots of energy, floral notes, mineral notes, extra dimension and depth – Grand Cru quality no doubt…
2015 Corton-Charlemagne
The first wine tasted from barrel.
Weight, faint yellow citrus, yet modest. A little CO2, layers and layers of flavour – massive – wow – but never lumpen. Fabulous!
2015 Bâtard-Montrachet
A deeper nose, again yellow fruit, modest but such depth. Lots of flavour dimension here, plenty of oak too, but a burst of finishing flavour – again, wow wine.
2015 Chevalier-Montrachet, Clos des Chevaliers
A lighter, more complex nose of flowers and minerals. An oilier texture, but massive minerals, palate-munching wine of fabulous concentration here. Wow! Exceptional finishing too… I swallowed!

2015 Montrachet
Here a 1-year-old barrel – the single barrel..
A big bright nose of ripe fruit and a deeper suggestion of minerality. Vibrant, some minerality, incredible weight/concentration and fat – yet never without balance. Exceptionally long, yet if I had to choose one of these last two, without doubt it would be an easy win for the Chevalier…

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