Tasted in Puligny-Montrachet with Philippe Jomain, 20 October 2016.
Domaine Jomain / Jomain Frères
1 Rue Abreuvoir
Tel: +33 3 80 21 93 46
Philippe on 2016:
“We started harvesting on the 24th, with good maturity, the acidity wasn’t extraordinary, but I’d say correct – and the rain definitely helped a little after the dryness. We have low yields but they are variable; we lost 75% in Bâtard, nearer 30% losses for most other crus, but Puligny Perrières and the hillside there came close to a normal volume – but most importantly the quality seems to be there…”
Philippe on 2015:
“These are now all in bottle. This was also a modest volume harvest year, despite that there were plenty of clusters – the problem was that we couldn’t get much juice out of them – certainly it was less than we expected. Overall, I think it’s a millesimé gourmand. The problem at the moment isn’t the sales, it’s the production… in some areas, 5 vintages don’t add up to a full harvest like 09…”
Always tasty wines with gusto here. Everything from 2015 was bottled in September, the first couple of wines betray a little too much SO2 but that ought to fade in the next 6-12 months. Otherwise a tasty address that held onto enough acidity for all their cuvées.
There are a few négoce wines here too – Rully and Meursault for instance, all bought as grapes or must – “But we do all our own fermentations,” says Philippe. Those bottles wear a Jomain Frères label.
2015 Bourgogne Blanc
A nice fresh nose, despite some obvious sulfur. In the mouth there’s both good dimension and a nice texture too – I’d certainly want the sulfur to fade, but this is really rather good considering. Tasty stuff…
Still a hint of sulfur here too, but less. Here there’s lots of interest on the nose – clearly an extra depth of flavour and without necessarily extra richness. Hmm – ample and very tasty in the mid-palate – a certain minerality and depth of tasty flavour. Also a very worthy Puligny! Bon! A nice line of minerality to finish…
2015 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Les Perrières
Very subtly sweet oaked, pretty ripe yellow citrus – this is a wine that say drink me! Bigger volume in the mouth, some salinity here, lots of complexity and a little more freshness. It has lots of fine attributes, it’s just missing a hint of coherence today, but, again, it’s recently bottled… lots of potential here, and the faintly saline finish is super. To wait a little time for…
A nose to fall into; slightly cushioned by sweet oak, it’s an inviting sweet yellow citrus too. Hmm… again slightly padded by oak, but just a really beautiful mouth-watering sweet acidity with flavours very much to the mineral side. There’s a little richness here, but simply a gorgeousness too – bravo. Decadent drinking!
A big, vibrant and mineral nose – there’s lots being promised here. Beautiful texture, almost a blend of the best parts of the last two wines, with just a hint of added spice to the palate too. Very mineral but with comfortable edges, a wine that you should wait for but can still enjoy. Super! Only to wait for!
From the Puligny side, near Ramonet.
Here is the first wine with a little oak toast – smoky musk too perhaps. A wine with a great well of minerality at its base, plenty of barrel too though. The texture is exemplary and the weight is really in the direction of rich. Understated but seemingly enough acidity. A wine really to wait for – I see some potential here, but today it’s rather barrel-marked… a growing floral note in the finish though. ‘Certainly I’d wait more than 5 years and open in advance,’ says Philippe.