Tasted in Meursault with Romaric Chavey (and co-worker), 03 November 2016.
31 Rue de Mazeray
Tel: +33 3 80 21 61 74
Romaric on 2016:
“Compared to what most of our neighbours suffered, I can say that we were very lucky with our harvest – we only lost about 20% of a normal vintage. We still had to do a good triage to get rid of the dried grapes, but some leaf removal in the vines helped deal with the mildew. We are really happy with the result.”
Romaric on 2015:
“An early spring with good flowering, followed by a hot summer – this was the most problematic – there was some slowing of photosynthesis at this time, the vines taking liquid from the grapes to survive. We started harvesting the 29th August, and pretty-much all the vineyards at the same time – 50 pickers instead of 30. It took a little more than 5 days to complete our harvest, instead of normally at least 8 days. We had good fermentations, slow malos and we racked for the first time in July. In style, I see freshness and purity with some roundness of the vintage of course. The wines are seemingly quite accessible. Maybe 2014 and 2016 might turn out to be purer – but lets see.”
Last year I struggled with the macerated impression that the reds gave – but this year the Bourgogne (at least) doesn’t show it.
At this address there’s a distinct personality to the whites this year; with just brilliant mid-palate intensities and finishes, after rather more prosaic first impressions. If, after bottling, the wines tend more to the former than the latter, I will have underestimated most of these.
2015 Bourgogne Les Femelottes
One parcel in the Puligny area of 2 hectares – below villages Reuchaux – but before the Route National. ‘There is ac^tually better drainage here than the villages classified parcel.’ 1 additional hectare was planted in 2014 – a new purchase in the same vineyard which was planted with pinot before, so eventually there will be 3 hectares of this. It’s a big cuvée so is normally bottled in 2 lots
Depth of aroma, faint salinity too – perhaps a suggestion of honey. Round, nice silky texture, some weight of fresh flavour and slowly arriving width in the mid-palate. Not simple, good complexity! Nice growing finish with some citrus – really gets better and better. Really Good work!
2015 Meursault Clos des Corvées de Citeaux
The first vines harvested.
Deep aromas, some middle ripeness, some salinity. Supple, silky, plenty of weight here. Mineral and dense. I’d like a little more energy, but like the first the mid-palate and finish grow more stylish and here with plenty of citrus. A really good finish, if less exciting to start with…
2015 Meursault 1er Les Genevrières
One parcel in the middle of the slope, almost at the limit of the vineyard before Puligny.
More freshness to the nose here, very faint and quite attractive reduction too. Fresher, nice texture and weight, silky and with a nice energy. Grows bigger in the mid-palate, and has a lovely line of finishing flavour. Excellent wine!
2015 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Les Champs Gains
Right up against the St.Aubin appellation and Dents du Chien.
A higher-toned aromatic, still with citrus and here with a faint floral. Direct, very mineral, with melting flavours over the palate. A big burst of mid-palate flavour, citrus again. Super.
2015 Meursault les Casses Têtes
From just south of Tessons
A wide, slightly spicy nose. Supple, wide, nicely mineral and with a good line of flavour. Fresh enough and with a nice intensity. Concentrated fruit in the finish – interesting finishing intensity – which is something of a feature of these wines this year!
Just 50 metres from the Puligny Champs Gains
A deep but fresh nose, some oak references at the base. Hmm – this is nice… wide, transparent, and complex – some oak but nothing to put me off – this is really excellent. A big lift again in the finish. Excellent!
2015 Bourgogne Rouge La Taupe
Just across the RN74 road behind the wall of Château Pommard. Old vines of small yield but concentration. 70 year-old vines. Fully destemmed and only remontage, trying to extract very slowly. 10% new oak
A bright and fresh coulis of fruit almost starting in the direction of pyrazine, slowly a more floral red fruit blend takes over. Round, silky, good volume. Layers of concentrated darker fruit. This is really very good!
2014 Pommard 1er Les Chanlins
Next to Volnay at the top of the hill, only modestly hailed in 14 – so lost only 30%. Very steep on white limestone soil. The 2015 is just bottled so Romaric prefers to wait before showing.
A macerating, almost stewing fruit nose yet with freshness. Good volume, a little silky, some growing tannin, a bitter chocolate mid-palate. Plenty of tannin, but not dry. The finish majoring on bitter pips/chocolate.