Tasted in Meursault with Antoine, 25 October, 2016.
Domaine Antoine Jobard
2 Rue Leignon
Tel: +33 3 80 21 21 26
Antoine on 2016:
“It was certainly challenging in May and June, but in the end, it wasn’t a catastrophe. Of-course it depends where you look; some 1ers were not touched – like Blagny – but we lost a lot in Charmes and Genevrières. The frost actually took more than 40% was my first impression, but the grapes took up some of the rain that came in September, and the grapes pressed very well. Bourgogne and some villages made 15 or even less hl/ha in the bottom of the hill – we still lost 60% in the end, but this was better than it looked in April. We lost 50% in St.Aubin. We started harvesting on the 22nd of September, otherwise it was a normal harvest, and balances look good so far. Nice colours too, otherwise it’s too early to say more.”
Antoine on 2015:
“I don’t like ‘heavy’ but I like a lot of material with a nice fresh finish, maybe with a little iodine too – this you get in 2015. Vinifications were a little different, I normally rack after malo, blend on tank and then put back in barrel, this vintage I left in tank, to keep the freshness and CO2, you will probably note that, but they will be racked again before bottling.”
The wines were racked, part into tank, just before the harvest. Antoine is planning to bottle next year around March to April. Simply a first-class result here.
2015 Bourgogne Blanc
Bright and fresh, some weight too, certainly a hint reductive. Bright and vibrant in the mouth, really impressive weight yet carried with deftness. Yum!
From Sous la Velle, Chaumes et Corbin.
A less in-your-face nose, classic Meursault in the modern vernacular. A hint of reduction in the mouth – hmmm – salinity, Meursaultiness, super complexity and fresh line of flavour. Fabulous villages!
2015 Meursault En La Barre
A clearer reduction here but with some fresh top notes. A similar energetic complexity to the last wine, more mid-palate weight and here also some reduction. The extra weight is a neutral descriptor, not better than the last, just a little different. Possibly the same quality as the last, harder to tell today though… The length has an extra something though, still, I prefer the last wine today…
2015 Meursault Les Tillets
Not much reduction here, flowers over an agrume fruit. Bigger volume in the mouth, lots of complexity and energy – super dynamism in all these wines… yum – by far the most finishing intensity so far – excellent!
Also a white blossom on the nose, faint agrume on support. A wider, more bright and intense palate – almost cool climate, yet with fine texture and a really good mid-palate concentration. Just a twist of phenolic, and an achingly long finish. This style hard to follow the Meursaults, but, in isolation really fabulous.
2015 St.Aubin 1er Sur le Sentier du Clou
2012 was the first vintage, 2 barrels. Came from wife’s family – also have also Derrière Chez Eduard and Perrières now. Some parts planted in 1992 and 2002 but the average vine age is 40 years.
A more reductive nose. Also in the mouth – harder to taste but with super freshness and a certain clarity for all that. No doubt super, but not for detailing today… the finish is super, mind…
2015 Puligny-Montrachet Le Trezin
An open, still fresh nose that’s more floral. A little citrus fruit too. Bright, more intense with softer corners to the acidity and flavour – easier to appreciate today. A really gorgeous burst of flavour as you finish. Really a different expression. Yum!
2015 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Les Champs Gains
3 ouvrées. ‘For me ‘atypique’ for the domaine as these vines were treated with herbicide before I bought the plot. The first ploughing was very difficult as the roots are at the surface. I’ve tried, but I’m not satisfied so will replant after the 2016 vintage. Yes there’s some richness on the nose, it’s powerful but not the precision I want so I would rather start from zero.
A little more aromatic depth here. Cooler, more direct, more intense – slowly delivering its intense, citrus-laden fruit. Then a growing, finishing intensity too – very mineral wine – very engaging too.
2014 Meursault-Blagny 1er Cru
A part of 60 year-old vines plus dome from 2009.
Here more classic, faintly spiced Meursault vernacular – with freshness. A little more volume, but still a mineral, faintly spiced flavour. Then it grows again – super. This is excellent. Modestly lingering weight of flavour. But very fine.
Super, faintly spice agrume nose – almost a complex smoke. Here there are more points of complexity, of fruit, of acidity. This has fine texture too. Then a growing weight, and a long slow wave of finishing flavour – bravo!
2015 Meursault 1er Cru Genevrières
Together with Remi, will replant in March. Was on SO4 and the longevity of the vines isn’t great. Will have been cleared for 2 vintages before replanting.
A bigger nose, classic and round, faintly spiced. More gravitas, more weight, good texture a more considered and contemplative delivery of flavour – but what flavour. Still admirably balanced, and holds a wide line of flavour into the finish. Excellent wine…
A big nose, lots of volume but not too weighty. There’s the saline minerality and spice shown by many here. Wow! – Texture, weight and complexity – mouth-watering. Gorgeous mandarin impressions on the finish, half the top of the vineyard, half bottom this vintage – 100% bravo!