Tasted in Maligny with Olivier Savary, 06 April 2021, the first morning of the big frost.
Olivier on 2019:
“2019 was about 20% down in volume – between 40-45 hl/ha – there was a little frost too – in the end, it’s certainly not an abundant vintage. Relatively early ripening and ripe – tasty wine – lots of sugar. We thought the alcohols might be high but it’s definitely not dominant – even if it’s there. We have to be vigilant these days, the maturity arrives so quickly. The high degrees probably contributed to long fermentations but I like that with the wine on stays its lees – they can take a little time.”
A couple of great 2019s – and generally a very high quality level here…
All were bottled:
A small parcel in Villé the rest all from Maligny.
A nose that starts tight but slowly opens with some florality. A punch of freshness but then airy and wide – beautiful in fact – that’s so engaging and delicious in the middle and finishing flavours – so good – bravo PC
Like the Petit Chablis, this has only a tank elevage. Vines in Maligny and Villé again
Again a little airy. More concentration here, but with an open and accessible style to the flavours. Density in the middle but never dense – tasty long finishing – you can keep this a while if you like. Lovely wine.
2019 Chablis Sélection Vieilles-Vignes
A cuvée since 1995. A single parcel of 50-year-old vines. This natural cork, the rest are DIAM. 15% elevage in 500-litre barrels.
A more overt perfume to this wine – some florals and a rounder style. A nicxely cool-fruited and incisive start to this wine. Yes the edges are rounded by the oak but it’s a delicious wine with a fine texture. That’s lovely. Really an excellent villages
A parcel that looks across the valley to the VV but the soil and exposure are different. All tank elevage
Aromatically a little tighter but there are some citrus notes escaping from the glass. Extra attack, more structural – I like the energy here – melting with flavour, mouth-watering. Fine concentration and a persistence of flavour in an ever-widening finish. That’s bravo villages.
2019 Chablis 1er Vaillons
A contract with a friend – ‘but for grapes’ – the same parcel each year.
A tighter nose again, probably a suggestion of barrel spice. Round, saline, extra complexity of flavour, less overtly structural, melting over the palate – completely delicious.
2019 Chablis 1er Fourchaume
Again the nose is a little timid. Ultra direct, mineral, mouth-watering – almost juicy – really a purist’s Chablis. The finish is so impressively persistent. Keep this a couple of years – the texture is already lovely. Excellent wine.