Tasted in Beaune with Thibaut Marion, 01 April, 2021.
Thibaut on 2019:
“2019 is a big surprise – a succession of events; the frost, then rain and cool during flowering, then drought, then a heatwave – even some hail. So we had just about everything you fear when growing vines. Today we have a mix; some are bottled, some are ready to be bottled, some were bottled yesterday, some are racked and waiting… It’s a vintage with many dangers and we managed to largely escape most of them despite lots of small losses in both colours – all of which adding up to half a normal harvest in volume – the Côte de Beaune was more affected than further north. I think it was important not to pick the grapes too late – I want to keep the natural freshness that our wines usually show – waiting would have changed the style a lot.”
A fine result in the 2019 vintage from Thibaut Marion – there is much here that would be worth your time and at both ends of the the price-scale!
All the domaine wines are certified organic – ‘AB‘ – and all the whites are sealed with cork:
2019 Bourgogne Pinot Noir
Côte de Beaune fruit, mainly Volnay and Chorey with some Chalonnaise from around Givry
Nice aromatic volume, red-fruited, a good aromatic texture. This is even more attractive in the mouth – that’s a great finishing flavour – completely delicious. Just half a nose short of great Bourgogne.
2019 Bourgogne Côte d’Or
Vines in the commune of Volnay
A little paler. A nose that takes a little air and time to express – starting a little herby but swelling with more attractive florals. Cool fruit, lovely entry, wide and mouth-watering. A little more evident but attractive structure in the middle – very classy Bourgogne – Excellent.
‘An appellation that’s really been profiting from the warmer summers.’ This one not yet bottled.
A more vertical nose – good high and low tones, perhaps some reduction contributing but less width. I love the energy and airy but impactful shape – yes a little reduction, but a super wine of airy style but not short of intensity too – great Bourgogne
2019 Savigny Nature
A depth of aroma that’s a little bready but also with some clean red fruit. Wide, supple, faintly tannic though with no grain. A fine fruit – a little cordial style – but with clarity. The finish is wide and shows impressive purity for the style of the wine. I couldn’t say Savigny, but I could say very tasty!
2019 Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Godeaux Classic
A deeper nose though fresh ‘up top.’ Hmm, that has a little more muscle and a nice line to the flavour – good texture before a little tannin raises from the floor. Long finishing – wait 1-2 years but this is nice wine.
2019 Savigny-lès-Beaune Vieilles-Vignes
From the foothills of Savigny – much in Picotins – gravels and good drainage, about 80-year-old vines. Also not yet bottled.
This has a fuller, rounder, a little darker too – perfume of whole clusters and fruit. More density – still fresh – the smokiness of the stems in evidence but without herbacity. A wide, almost chewy finish – lots of concentration here. Delicious, slightly contemplative, excellent Savigny Villages.
2019 Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Lavières
Also a tank sample.
Also some whole-cluster perfume here – less overt than for the VV – becoming more perfumed with air. A more sinewy width of flavour here – the texture just a little more impressive despite the attentions of some extra tannin – hardly any grain. Lip-smacking, wide-finishing flavours. Very good!
2019 Pommard Petits Epenots
This a village wine…
A higher-toned nose, more fruit-forward I see no stems here – it is destemmed – becoming more airy and perfumed. Mouth-filling, a little more tannin and dryness from that tannin but the grain is tiny. Another lip-smacking, freshly finishing wine – leaving a small tannin to remember it by…
2019 Pommard 1er Pezerolles
All whole bunch – it was needed as the cuvée was so small – the second vintage after replanting. I bought 3 mags of the last vintage of the old vinee – over 80-years-old – It must be nearly time to try one!
The whole-cluster perfume is actually much more discrete here versus the Savignys – not the widest nose but one with a bit of class. Mouth-filling and energetic too – density of flavour, long finish – that’s a super wine for such young vines – really very, very good.
0.20 ha in the higher part, old vines – 60-years-old.
Fresh with a faint suggestion of reduction – this is bottled, like the Pommards. Fresh, nice attack, both depth and clarity of flavour. Easy over the palate, fine intensity – a calm but engrossing wine with a creamy depth to fruit in the finishing flavours – bravo!
2019 Nuits St.Georges Vieilles-Vignes
In bottle for 2 days…
A different style of nose – there’s both width and depth and a certain stony character. Deeply flavoured, supple, fresh – not fat – growing more intense. Lots of flavour complexity – mineral finishing and quite long too.
2019 Vosne-Romanée Au Communes
A 1.8 hectare plot – since 2013. Was previously made with some whole clusters but Thibaut doesn’t think that they brought much, so for the second vintage none were used.
Wide red fruit, accented not just with spice but also a small reduction that together give the impression of some whole clusters! Mouth-filling, just a little more accommodating than the Nuits, a modest grain of tannin but no dryness. Easy, very tasty flavours over the palate just deepened by a faint reduction.
2019 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles-Vignes
A much more forward nose with floral higher-tones. Wide over the palate, airy but still concentrated – I like this open style, with a depth to the flavour that like some others suggests a little creamy extra in the finish – but there’s no oak to see. Three very good but very different villages – I think this is my favourite.
2019 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cazetiers
A high-toned aromatic complexity here – only just bottled – faintly reductive. Wider, more intense, almost a little sourness to the acidity but what intensity! Wide, fine textured, and flavour that only slowly fades in the finish – many super aspects to this wine…
2019 Corton Rognet
Starting with a modest volume but here’s an aroma that grows and grows – really an extra-fine perfume. Mouth-filling but with energy, not fat. Concentrated but alive – that’s a great bottle – delicious, weight balanced with energy. Beautifully textured too. Long finishing. Not ultra demonstrative today but very sophisticated – that’s a really excellent Corton…
The last two ‘not yet ready’ for bottling:
From En Orveaux
A cool, composed, complex and very attractive nose – bravo – just not that powerful. Really mouth-filling – there’s wine here. Layered, complex, beautiful wine. The finish wide, forward and delicious. That’s a very fine Echézeaux – bravo – it seems ready to me!
2019 Chambertin Clos de Bèze
A narrower nose but not less complex – here I see impressive depth though probably aided by a faint reduction. Even more mouth-filling than the Echézeaux – a more open and structural style – almost Clos de Vougeot-style, wide and impressively powerful in the finish, such a long finish. A bigger wine but more structural than the more accommodating Exchézeaux today – still a super wine, it has everything…
A freshness of aroma, slightly sweet also slightly saline, there’s depth here too. Wide, concentrated but with a fine freshness. The finish is a good one – long, mobile and never heavy – a super wine with no excess maturity – nice clean fruit.
Same vinification as the last – no oak. Almost 1 year in bottle now.
A more discreet nose – there’s some width but it’s not that forward. A touch of gas, a more mineral freshness too. Wide in the middle to finishing flavours – a little more airy, mineral-floral in style and deliciously finishing once more. Another excellent wine.
2019 Bourgogne Chardonnay
A mix of Meursault and Montagny commune fruit, part of the elevage (and fermentation) in oak.
A little more fresh attack from this nose. More silk, a nice intensity too. The fruit flavour is delivered layers of good texture, the finish with a suggestion of salinity you think it’s finished quite early but then it sustains a long note. That’s a super Bourgogne,
2019 Bourgogne Chardonnay Côte d’Or
Just from the commune of Meursault.
Some depth to this nose – faintly reductive. That’s a nicely incisive and vibrant entry. Concentrated, and again vibrant flavour in the middle. Super wine. Excellent
2019 Pouilly-Vinzelles Vieilles-Vignes
A floral and stone fruit complexity – a very good nose. A sweeping shape of freshness, minerality too but also a width of flavour – slightly structural today – give it 12-18months but really tasty wine of fine balance…
2019 Montagny 1er Vigne du Soleil
Been making this since 2016 and Thibaut is very happy with the results…
A deeper nose, still fresh, suggesting something mineral. Supple, fresh, nicely intense – more fruit-forward than the Pouilly. Easier finishing but with good energy – drink this before the Pouilly…
2019 Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Goudelettes Blanc
High on the hill, only 50 cm of soil, last vineyard harvested around 8-9 September.
A nicely open nose of freshness and yellow citrus. Intense – direct, super texture – structural but not enough to caution for patience. A little finishing oak that flatters the wine but I’d wait for that to fade more – say 6 months… Really a delicious Savigny blanc.
2019 Meursault Vieilles-Vignes
Ooh – that’s a super nose – directly Meursault with a modest ginger-spice and a lovely mineral base. More cushioned than the Savigny but also more class too – mineral, texturally lovely – narrower but longer finishing. You could wait as long as you like for this simply perfectly proportioned villages – excellent wine.
2019 Beaune 1er Clos des Mouches Blanc
Will be increasing the production in the future. Recently bottled.
There’s a little oaky reduction here – but there’s fruit in support too. Also the oak is visible but here’s a concentrated wine of sweeping lines of flavour. Vibrant in the middle and sustaining an excellent finish. That’s a super white Beaune – well done!