Tasted in Chablis with Dylan Camus, 07 April – the second morning of the big frost…
Domaine Christophe Camu
1 avenue de la Liberté
89800 Chablis
Tel: +33 3 86 42 12 50
Dylan Camu is the 7th generation at this 15-hectare family domaine. “And we have all 4 levels of Chablis,” he proudly notes, adding with a smile “I think that we’re the 50th of 52 owners in Les Clos!”
Dylan’s father bought the old premises of a negoce in 1990s – they are very close to La Chablisienne. They also have a shop that’s open 7 days/week; “Though it’s hard in this period of confinement because 80% of our sales are the passing trade plus the sales from a couple of small shops in the centre of Chablis – about 15% is exported though.”
In terms of the winemaking here, Dylan explained “We try to capture the maximum possible – nothing artificial – so with natural yeasts and we do have some longer fermentations. There is some stainless-steel elevage but mainly our elevage is in enamel tanks.”
Dylan on 2019:
“For us, 2019 was a good vintage – though, of course, not the volumes of 2018. I like the vintage because I think it has a lovely balance between acidity and ripeness but still with good energy – – I think that we’re all happy with the result.”
The wines…
I visited because the Petit Chablis I tasted from here that I tasted in January was so good – it seems that the whole range has plenty to offer.
All cork sealed here:
2019 Petit Chablis
The vines are all above Les Clos – all tank elevage.
Not fully open – but nicely fresh. That’s really lovely on the palate, bubbling with modest but present energy. Fine minerality – easy but very delicious finishing – that’s lovely.
2019 Chablis Vieilles-Vignes
Over 70-year-old vines, with some replacements, planted by Dylan’s grandfather. These vines in Poinchy between the Côte de Lechets and Beauroy.
A little more open – wider and citrus-fruited. Supple, mineral, almost a grain of tannin in the shape of this wine. Long with finishing waves of flavour – a little contemplative – a lot delicious – lovely wine with a finishing accent of salinity.
2019 Chablis Gouttes D’Or
Under Montmains the actual lieu-dit is Côte d’Or which they are not allowed to use – but the cuvée name is close. Older barrels for the elevage of this wine – a clear bottle so you can see the deeper colour too.
A nose that’s more open, showing plenty of floral style. More energy, no overt oak – mineral for sure – lip-smacking and zesty finishing.
2019 Chablis 1er Côte de Lechets
2 small parcels assembled.
Again that’s a nicely perfumed nose. More direct, obviously mineral – deeply flavoured, indeed strongly flavoured in the middle and finish – here is a wine that I’d keep back for a couple of years in the cellar. Very good
2019 Chablis 1er Beauroy
The part close to Poinchy. Here they have been using candles this week…
An airy nose, subtly yellow-citrus. Direct, muscular, fresh, with nice balancing energy too. I find a nicer flavour today in this wine. Melting, reasonably concentrated, not a big wine but one that is aromatic and deliciously long finishing. Super.
The next two were bottled just last week:
2019 Chablis 1er Montmains
True Montmains. Used 25% new barrels for this wine. Dylan finds there was more structure before bottling
Yes, rounder aromatics, some barrel – but less than ‘25% new oak’ might suggest. This has plenty of mouth-filling volume and good shape in the mouth – quite discreet barrel notes and even a mandarin fruit complexity to the agrumes – fine flavour – the structure just a little soft today but open and nicely mineral, silky, finishing.
2019 Chablis Les Clos
A small parcel that came from Dylan’s grandparents – roughly 2 barrels – maybe a little more in a normal year. The vines just next to Grenouilles.
Here the nose shows its oak more – the same elevage as the Montmains. More scale, more energy – the structure that was a little lacking in the Montmains can be found here – plenty of complexity too. Oaked but this is a baby wine – a nicely balanced and shapely baby wine – give it at least 2-3 years despite how drinkable it is – it will become more classic in shape. Really potentially excellent…
2019 Dylan Camus, Irancy Les Grenouillères
First vintage; differently shape bottle, wax-topped. 25% new oak elevage after fermentations in tank. Used some whole clusters here.
Lots of colour. A properly perfumed Irancy nose, ripe but fresh fruit supporting – that’s a lovely invitation. Mouth-filling, concentrated, sweeping flavours – a proper tannin, a little drying but with no attendant grain. Lovely freshness. That’s a super wine – for keeping a short 1-2 years but only for this tannin to relax.
