Tasted in Fontenay-Près-Chablis with Thierry Mothe, 06 April 2021 – the first morning of the big frost.
Thierry on 2019:
“A year with a new level of climate; the dryness, two episodes of canicule – but because of that work in the vines was relatively easy – we needed practically no treatments – we can certainly say that we were organic in 2019! But we were touched a little by the frost in the spring but it wasn’t really a strong frost – yes the vines were cold so there was some filage – and then the flowering wasn’t really the best so there was also a little coulure. The volume wasn’t too bad with the VCI from 2018 – I managed to make 50 hl/ha despite the frost. I think the higher degrees – 13.5° – mask the acidity a little bit – but analytically there’s enough so we are in a good shape…”
A delicious range from Thierry – served up in difficult circumstances. A couple of the wines I’d advise you keep in the cellar for a couple of years to get the best out of them.
DIAM across the range – DIAM3 for the ‘smaller’ wines, DIAM5 for the mid-range and DIAM10 for the grand cru. Thierry says he’s “Very happy with the way the DIAM is going – I see proper ageing, not ageing by oxidation! Everything was bottled here.“
2019 Petit Chablis
The produce of multiple parcels – Vines from Chichée and Fontenay
A nice and fresh nose – some lime-citrus here too. Hmm, that’s really very good, melting, good ‘cut,’ mineral too. That’s a really excellent PC.
40 hectares worth that needs 5-6 bottlings. Normally a blend of left plus right bank vines plus old and young vines. Fontenay bringing older vines and Chichée younger vines which bring energy all left bank.
Here the nose is tighter. Broader and more mineral over the palate – more concentrated too. A little touch of finishing floral accent. That’s very tasty.
Normally from 3 small parcels – 2 ha worth in Chichée, more clay here that adds to the fruit and flowers, whereas Fourchaume is more limestone, ‘More alive, more dry, more reflective.’
Deeper, more mineral forward, a little of the green-citrus accent of the Petit Chablis. Wider again – a more open and complex wine – less obviously concentrated but there is density to this finishing flavour. Overall an airier style but with much delicious flavour. Really great finishing too – so persistent – bravo!
2019 Chablis 1er Fourchaume
From 4 hectares of vines.
Nice width again – here a more intense core of mineral and citrus aroma – saline too. Extra impact – extra concentration – lots of freshness wrapped up in a ball of energy here. Still, this is a wine for keeping – have 1-2 years of patience. Beautiful finishing width and persistence – that’s excellent.
2019 Chablis Bougros
1.2 hectares in 3 parcels in the middle of William Fevre’s vines, including some old vines. No frost protection here.
A narrower but another deep nose. Extra mineral – ooh – that’s impressive – a little like the Fourchaume the structure says ‘wait’ – but that’s a very impressive mouthful of wine. Layered a long rolling wave of finishing flavour – super-impressive – that’s an excellent grand cru, really a great finish.