Tasted in La Chapelle-Vaupelteigne with Grégory & Delphine Viennois (right), 31 March 2021.
Grégory on 2019:
“In 2018 we were amongst the first to harvest, it wasn’t like that in 2019! We harvested 19 September and all was done in just three days. The vintage is ‘average’ in terms of volume. Regarding our parcels or the winemaking, nothing has changed here…”
Like every year – a little more depth, a cushion, to the texture than for many with this label. The 2019 Bâtardes is worth a special search!
These bottlings were all done at the end of October:
A blend of 4 different climats, Begnots is a new one and has the whole parcel in this – he also had a little in 2015. About 10% whole clusters, only a little sulfur before bottling. 50% cement elevage, the rest in barrel. Only 13.5°…
Plenty of colour. The nose is deep with ripe fruit – almost a textural blue-black fruit. Juicy, a little texture of tannin but hardly any grain, finely ripe fruit but not too much. Long, slightly mineral finishing. That’s a very tasty wine – I think I need to eat something with it!
2019 Irancy Beaux Monts
Plain south-facing, with a steep, 45°, of slope. In this case 40% whole-clusters in the fermentations. Some newer barrels 1-2 years old.
Much higher-toned aromatics, the base still of ripe fruit, less blue-colour. More mouth-filling but this is an open wine, not about density, a little framing with tannin though no grain. Dark cherry flavours, long, slowly fading, narrow in the finish. More contemplative than the Irancy.
Light soil – Marne and limestone – a bit like Blanchots – ‘a magnificent parcel.’
Depth of aroma, clarity, purity – dark fruits. Fuller, more overtly concentrated – here’s a big wine. Supple, the effect of tannin again but no grain – still, a little more sophistication to the structure here. Mouth-watering intensity of flavour, almost juicy, fading only very slowly and with more presence in the finish too. Bravo!