Tatsed with Catherine & Louis Poitout, 07 April 2021 – day 2 of the big frost…
Louis had previously worked for Durup, finishing in 2013 – his father had worked for Durup too.
Louis and his wife Catherine had decided that they wanted to do something together and when a domaine in Fleys came up for sale with great facilities ‘which allowed us to have a certain structure, a presence,‘ together with the family vines on Catherine’s side – she was born a Gautheron – they made the jump.
The domaine covers about 18 hectares of vines. “For us it’s very interesting as we have a mix of vines in both the north and the south of Chablis.”
A large market for this domaine is the restaurants of Paris – so it’s still complicated for sales.
A fine range of 2019s with some great wines, worth a search. In general, I’m not a big fan of cuvée names and here there are many – but that’s a detail. Such a strong range of wines. I’ll have to pay a visit to see their ungrafted vines too – definitely worth an extra trip!
DIAM-style for most wines but not the 1ers, which use cork. All the wines bottled:
2019 Bourgogne Chardonnay
From vines in Tonnerre
A width and a forward style to the nose – yellow citrus complexity. A roundness but there’s direction here and minerality too. Delicious ‘northern’ Bourgogne Chardonnay.
Over 6 hectares of PC at the domaine in two parcels. Mainly planted 1988-89. No wood, no batonnage.
A narrower nose but with a fresh, floral side. Wide – mouth-filling, complex, nicely but not overly complex – I like the clarity here – bravo. Super and I’d drink it now with pleasure.
2019 Chablis Bienommé
From Villy, but the Chablis parcels of the domaine extend to 10 hectares.
There’s extra depth and minerality to this nose. Mouth-filling, extra emphasis on the width. I really like the texture of this insistent and mouth-watering wine. Lovely…
2019 Chablis Bonaugure
From Maligny, planted between 1989 and 1991.
A wider, airy, more complex nose – not better, different. An extra richness of texture, supple, still mouth-watering. I slightly prefer the first but qualitatively they are very similar.
This the domaine’s old-vine parcel – the youngest part is 40 years-old – the rest with plantation dates between 1946 and 1960
That’s really aromatic – concentrated but not heavy. Premier cru level density and concentration – saline, wide, mouth-watering, zesty. Contemplative and very delicious. Keep this back for a year or two but you could have an exceptional villages-level wine with patience.
2019 Chablis 1er Fourneaux Opallion
A more golden style to this fruit, a calmer nose. Supple, a roundness but more open, wide and considered but pure and textural – that’s really an excellent wine. Super!
2019 Chablis 1er Vaucoupin Stellaris
A more agrume depth of aroma almost a suggestion of the sea-shore with this. This more direct, more assertive, mineral, depth of flavour. More tension and mouth-watering Almost a great wine and it has time on its side…
Age unknown – potentially oldest vines in Chablis as there is no graft / franc de pied – ‘tastes different so decided on VdF’ a 0.55 ha parcel near Villy.
The nose has a direct style, lightly herbed complexity, very slowly with a floral accent too. Mouth-filling, texturally different, rich, silky – no lack of mouth-watering middle and finishing flavour but the first impression is softer, with less attack. All the attributes of Chablis but delivered in a different order! Very impressive.
This the commercial vintage today.
A more mineral nose, almost hinting at a faint reduction. More incisive, more direct, the minerality more overt. A finish that opens superbly wide – bravo – but impressive as it is, still for keeping – and probably as long as you wish!
2019 Bourgogne Vindemiola
Pinot noir from Tonnerre. The parcel next to their Bourgogne Chardonnay. Stainless steel elevage except finishing in old ‘white’ barrels.
Medium-plus colour. The nose arrives with a punch – very ripe but also vibrant too. Supple, mouth-filling – really a lot of flavour and very tasty too. A modest grain of tannin and some dried, mixed fruit in the middle flavours. Really an excellent wine – adjust your expectations and enjoy!