Entries from 2017

offer of the day – drouhin-laroze 2016

By billn on December 06, 2017 #the market

DOMAINE DROUHIN-LAROZE 2016 – En Primeur

Gevrey-Chambertin En Champs 2016 75cl 49.50* Swiss Francs
Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaut-St-Jacques 1er Cru 2016 75cl 65.00

GRAND CRUS
Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru 2016 75 cl 119.00
Clos Vougeot Grand Cru 2016 75cl 125.00
Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru 2016 75cl 145.00
Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru 2016 75cl 158.00

*There is 8% Tax to add in Switzerland, but then these are delivered prices

One could say that these are relatively modest prices when compared to those of Clos des Lambrays which I published a few days ago…

killing time in vougeot

By billn on December 05, 2017 #travels in burgundy 2017

…today with a coffee and then a little wander before an appointment in Gilly:
 

weekend wines – week 48 2017

By billn on December 04, 2017 #degustation

2015 Daniel Buland, Chiroubles
Ooh – so deep, silky dark fruit – now that’s an invitation! On the palate this is almost syrup texture, wide, supple concentrated wine – enough balancing freshness. Delicious wine – it made a great sauce reduction from the last 3rd of the bottle too!
Rebuy – Yes

Then a big selection of wines ready for Saturday evening – in the end I didn’t open the Meursault Charmes or the Chambertin as there was still St.Aubin and Bourgogne to finish:

First was the magnum Alex Gambal’s 2002 St.Aubin 1er Murgers des Dents du Chien – fine textured and the first two glasses were delicious, fresh and still relatively young wine of fine clarity – later glasses had an occasional suggestion of cork-taint – but the sometimes it’s there, sometimes it’s not variety – very annoying and never definitive, at least not without a second magnum to hand! The second wine was the greatest showing of Pascal Lachaux’s 2004 Clos St.Denis, always delicious despite some previous showings with a trace of pyrazine – this day, this wine was mature and absolutely super – can a 2004 be better? This was joint wine of the night – bravo – and my last from a case of 6. As our menu changed course, then came the magnum of 2010 Camille Giroud Bourgogne Cuvée L this a blend of the lees of all the red cuvées of that vintage – grand crus included – an extra 6 months of settling needed due to those lees. Great texture, you and easy, despite lovely depth of flavour – of-course compared to the Clos St.Denis. We finished with the Marcel Deiss grand cru riesling Altenberg de Bergheim VT from 1994. The cork was glued in and was removed in hundreds of pieces – filtered the wine was fine – fresh, sweet, deliciously complex stuff – great. My last bottle of this wasn’t so great, but this and the Clos St.Denis were easily the wines of the night…

offer of the day – clos des lambrays 2016

By billn on December 03, 2017 #the market

Here you go – the 2016 for you from the usual Swiss merchant. Only the grand cru is offered, so no 1er cru and no whites.

In the brackets, you can see the price comparison with the last two vintages, in the format 2016 (2015, 2014). – – means ‘not offered.’

DOMAINE DES LAMBRAYS 2016 – En Primeur

GRAND CRU
2016 Clos des Lambrays 75cl 225.00 (199.00, 159.00) *Swiss francs
2016 Clos des Lambrays 150cl 455.00 (403.00, – -)
2016 Clos des Lambrays 300cl 960.00 (856.00, – -)

*8% Swiss purchase tax to be added, but these are delivered prices. Clos des Lambrays is no-longer the bargain grand cru that it once was, and that’s despite ‘very nice’ yields in 2016. But as part of the LVMH stable, we already knew that that would be the case…

sharing the snow…

By billn on December 01, 2017 #travels in burgundy 2017

I think that today (apart from typing) I’m mainly re-posting pictures of snow in Burgundy! I’ve snow at home too, but in Switzerland,

I’m back to Beaune on Sunday for the last two weeks of visits this year…

Enjoy your weekend!

a little gjpv tasting…

By billn on November 30, 2017 #degustation


Tasted Friday 17 November in Ladoix…
Back row: Charles-Édouard Drouhin, François Berthenet, David Cachat, François Ambroise.
Front row: Alice Rion, Chloé Chevalier, Claude Nadeau.

A little post-2017 Trophy tasting, afternoon de-stressing with ex-laureats of the GJPV Trophy:

​2016 Thierry Drouin, Macon-Vergisson La Roche
10.5 ha domaine, 5 generations making wine. 0.25 hectares, elevage in barrels for 7-8 months about 5% new.
Bright, open, brilliant, fine, pure and complex nose. Wide, great volume, layers of pretty flavour. Delicious wine, long too…

2015 Thierry Drouin, Pouilly-Fuisse En Buland
A little high these vines to be in the dossier for 1er crus
A vibrant nose, crystalline with a base of vanilla oak – but better use of oak than many. Bright, wide, really an intensity of flavour, but retaining good balance. I love the finish here – excellent…

2016 Jean-Pierre Berthenet, Montagny Les Coères
All barrel elevage, none new, some in 450 litre barrels. The domaine had some frost in their higher vines, but not here – they have 20 ha of vines.
A nice fresh nose, sherbet style. Big, super texture, citrus and floral, minerals too. Bravo!

2015 Jean-Pierre Berthenet, Montagny 1er Bonneveaux
Only in demi-muids and then in tank.
Bright fresh, some vibrant lime fruit here. Mineral, wide, ripe lime again, lovely width and deliciousness.

2015 Ambroise, Côte de Nuits Villages Blanc
Two barrels – both new – vines next to the Clos de la Marechale
A nice ripe and fresh fruit, but with a heavy accent of oak. Beautiful line and freshness, seriously mineral, a little ripe lime here too, mouth-watering, but too much oak in the finish today.

2015 Ambroise, St.Romain
30% new oak, 400 l barrels.
Fine, fresh, very faintly saline. A bright, quite dense core, but very pretty finishing flavour..

2015 Cachat-Oquidant, Beaune Saint Desiree
Just below Clos des Mouches – 14 was hailed, 16 was frosted. Two new barrels.
Good freshness, more than a little twist of oak. Silky nice depth, layered flavour. Nice fruit but battling the oak today… long finishing

2015 Domaine Chevalier, Ladoix Bois de Mont
Two lieu dits combined. Just before domaine d’Ardhuy
Vibrant fruit, fresh almost a 2016 freshness. Wide, lovely depth of texture and flavour… delicious…

2015 Domaine Chevalier, Aloxe-Corton
More floral, good red fruit. More astringence of tannin, fresh in character, fresh fruit too – again, ripe but very pinot fruit. More patience needed here, but lovely..

2015 Armelle et Bernard Rion, Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Chaumes
50-60% new barrels.
Vibrant, perfumed wine. Wide, lovely texture, some oak flavour but not too much, a spicy flavour too, great fruit, floral notes in the finish too. Excellent, plenty of finishing tannin…

2013 Armelle et Bernard Rion, Clos de Vougeot
Ooh, vibrant fruit, deep, a freshness and energy here. A frame of tannin around lovely depth of flavour, excellent. Long, and still a baby…

2005 Cachat-Oquidant, Ladoix La Madonne
A nice depth of aroma, some sous bous, growing freshness. Lots of concentration and impact too, structured but at a stage where it is starting to melt over the palate…

2003 Cachat-Oquidant, Corton Clos des Vergennes
4 generations in the family… recently planted a part in white
Almost menthol, herby, some reductive notes – complex. Big, lots of ripeness and concentration. This is tasting really good – I guess 09, because of the ripe fruit – I’m surprised it’s as old as 2003!

decanter – perpetuating confusion when they should be bringing clarity?

By billn on November 29, 2017 #the market

The linked article gives the impression that the new Bourgogne Côte d’Or label could be potentially problematic from the perspective of either price, or because it’s an ‘extra complication.’ I’d like to challenge that:

Complication?
Let’s be clear: For Côte d’Or producers making wine from pinot noir – assuming those vines are also in the Côte d’Or – this new label makes absolutely no change to their wine! Some producers may decide to take this new label, some might not, but that’s it. Indeed it helps the consumer because they know exactly that they are buying a pinot from the Côte d’Or – period! So it’s not a new tier per-se, it’s the rubber stamp that what is in the bottle, is what people already overwhelmingly assumed was in the bottle!

Higher Pricing?
See above – overwhelmingly no, because nothing has changed for many, many producers! Except – and this is where it gets interesting – if they were buying and blending cheaper pinot grapes from the Chalonnais/Mâconnais/Beaujolais – or, less well-known, gamay – because, yes, up to 15% gamay is allowed in Bourgogne Rouge!* If you don’t want either of those things, then the Bourgogne Côte d’Or label is exactly the control you have been waiting for. And if your supplier wants a big price increase vs their previous cuvées, you can simply ask the question – “Why, what was in your wine before?

Fortunately, this change won’t be from the 2016 vintage, because the bourgogne land was brutalized by frost – so there’s not much, and it might indeed go up in price – but that’s the supply and demand market, and nothing to do with a label-change…

*Note this is exactly the same for chardonnay too – except that here it is even simpler – Bourgogne blanc never contained gamay 🙂

2012 vosne-romanée from david clark

By billn on November 29, 2017 #degustation

The second bottle from this ‘mixed-case’ of David’s last vintage before selling-up to Yann Charlopin.

​2012 David Clark, Vosne-Romanée
The 2012 Côte de Nuits Villages is currently quite an acid-forward wine. This also started in modest fashion too – I was starting to have some concerns about David’s 2012s. But this is a wine that needs air, so, almost certainly, it needs time too. It grows into the glass, seemingly adding weight and even a little fat. In the end the nose has a fresh-fruited Vosne style, but in the mouth it becomes mouth-filling and adds ‘presence.’ It’s young, intense wine. In the end this a high-quality wine with a very good, if very young finish. It’s long too. I might still try this vintage’s Morey, but the Côte de Nuits Villages and this Vosne I will let sleep for at least another 2-3 years…
Rebuy – Yes

leflaive’s 2016 pricing…

By billn on November 28, 2017 #the market

Just a little update to my previous post: It seems that regardless of their prices, the (Swiss) market has lapped up all the grand crus from this offer, but the Bourgogne, Puligny, Clavoillons, Folatières and Pucelles remain unsold for now – the merchant has had to send out a second email – who knows, the middle the (Leflaive) market may not be endlessly elastic!

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