Entries from 2016

a beaujolais harvest update

By billn on September 15, 2016 #vintage 2016

dsc00811Translated from today’s news email from Inter Beaujolais.

The progresses of the grape maturity in Beaujolais (16,000 hectares between Lyon and Mâcon):

The first secateurs will be used in anger at the end of this week – for the earliest maturing areas.

In terms of climate, the ideal conditions of recent weeks, with hot temperatures and dry weather, has allowed the grape maturatity to progress while maintaining good sanitary conditions. Note, the high amount of sunshine in July and August (more than 100 hours) and approaching records in August, with 20 days of full sun versus an average of 10 days.

The volume (and outside the areas damaged by hail in the spring, which was about 2,200 hectares affected by 50% or more), the harvest should be above the average of the last 5 year’s yields – a more classic harvest of between 700 and 800,000 hectolitres. The weight of the berries is below average, but the average cluster size is quite larger this year – despite the plot-to-plot variablity.

The rains of last night and those announced for the weekend will be beneficial after several very hot, dry weeks. The weather forecast for next week suggests normal seasonal temperatures and sunshine, which should help the vines to achieve their maturity ‘serenely.’ The winemakers whose plots are in the later maturing should also benefit from these weather forecasts.

grappl’in with savigny blanc

By billn on September 15, 2016 #degustation

dsc01039

Earlier this year I compared the 2011 and 2012 of this villages white: The 11 was open, soft and simply very, very tasty. The 12 was a little more angular and phenolic – impressive but not yet really tasty – things can change quickly, though.

Here we are at the end of our summer and virtually all the angles of this wine have now been carefully chamfered. It’s very tasty now, with a trailing, sweetly acid-led flavour. Actually, it’s delicious…

abbaye de la bussière

By billn on September 14, 2016 #travels in burgundy 2016

dsc01020Touring the Hautes Côtes de Nuits today, in particular the Valley of the Ouche. Here is the classic Burgundy canal-boat land, and with plenty of cafés along the way.

Also here is the Abbaye de Bussière, up-market stop-over par-excellence. I took a coffee before an Aston-Martin club came for afternoon tea – the hotel hosted the Lamborghini and Porsche clubs in last weeks too – fortunately none were present while my trusty Scoobydoo took centre-stage in the car park.

Owner Clive Cummings gave me a pre-coffee tour of the buildings and grounds that he managed to buy from the Diocese of Dijon in 2005; “It was used as a retreat for clergy but its upkeep became too expensive. When we came it was all suspended ceilings and water that would freeze-over in the winter” laughs Clive, but behind the ceiling tiles remained the beautiful vaulted ceilings. In 2006 he and his wife managed to open the hotel with 9 rooms in good shape – now they have 20 – up to 30 are possible. With 2 restaurants and 34 staff, they have an almost 1:1 staff-to-guest ratio!

The Cistercian beginnings here were in 1131, but that was ‘take-2’ as their first attempt burnt down and so these buildings were built nearer the Ouche river – just in case! During it’s life it presided over many estates and hundreds of monks, but only 7 remained by the time it became state property at the Revolution. There were multiple owners and uses before it was eventually bequeathed back to the church. The ‘cellier’ is a beautiful building with an old wine-press – much the same as that in the Clos de Tart, the (admittedly cool temperature) ‘cellar’ is basically at ground level – I assume the water-table is a little too high here for ‘depth.’ Clive has plans for a wine club for his regular visitors and tasters; collecting and then storing the wines that the club members will have previously tasted from cask.

I have a feeling that I’ll be returning to test their twice monthly weekend brunches – with a spotlighted winemaker too!
 

the saint-vincent 2017 in mercurey

By billn on September 13, 2016 #diary dates

mercurey-1The Saint-Vincent is a regional celebration that was created by the Confrérie des chevaliers du tastevin in 1938* and the poster (right) for the 2017 event has been released this week. It is a meeting of all the grower syndicates of Burgundy in one village each year, and their associated (about 80) small statues of Saint-Vincent are paraded through the streets, before the eating and drinking commences.

Mercurey 2017 has taken the baton from Irancy 2016 – and hopefully they will have booked nicer weather than was the case in Irancy!

I note that it is not just Mercurey that is the home of the 2017 Saint-Vincent, but also Saint-Martin-sous-Montaigu (though usually Saint-Martin-sous-Montaigu is mentioned in brackets!) This will be third edition of the Saint-Vincent in Mercurey, the others being 1962 (a great vintage 🙂 ) and 1985.

The organiser’s website is up and running, though without much info so far. They are targeting between 50 and 100,000 visitors over the weekend – 30-40,000 has been nearer the mark in recent years – but that’s still a lot of frites, and presumably some wine too.
*List of towns since 1938.

how green & how red are my grapes? (beaune today)

By billn on September 13, 2016 #harvests#travels in burgundy 2016#vintage 2016

Despite the header image (above) there’s no harvesting in the Burgundy yet.

Since the big rain of the 5th of September, it’s been pretty warm here – wall-to-wall 30°C – or thereabouts. The weather was supposed to break tomorrow and bring a couple of cooler days with rain – it looked like it would come early today, with darker cloud and some wind in the early afternoon. But by 4pm the cloud was gone – just sun and blue sky remained. The rain is now forecast for Friday, or maybe Saturday…(?)

Up and down Burgundy, almost everyone would be happy with a little more rain, though the need is less in the Côte de Nuits. Even though they lack a little juice, the grapes are looking in quite good condition on the vines – in both colours – those that you can find, anyway! In the Côte d’Or, it’s going to be the vines that saw virtually no frost that will reach ripeness first – Maranges and Santenay were hardly touched, so might already be harvesting about the 20-24th. Those vines that were partially frosted, lost some time and really won’t be ready to harvest before the 26th, possibly a little later – and like the incidence of frost, it will be a question of parcel by parcel ripening.

I’ll keep you posted…
 

“can I refill it and put the cork back?”

By billn on September 12, 2016 #the market#warning - opinion!

sour-grapes

I guess I’m going to have to see this one*. I guess I’m still not the only one trying to workout how the auctioneers; Acker, Bagheera, Spectrum and previous Christies management – and they are probably not alone – could make so much money from this – without sanction…

*By the way, Ponsot said that 80% of all pre-1980 wines from a handful of Burgundy producers, at auction, was fake – not 80% of ALL Burgundy wines at auction!

beaujolais from domaine bertrand…

By billn on September 10, 2016 #degustation

dsc00952-1

When I did my big tasting in Beaujolais, way back in April, there was a problem with one producer’s wine – so he asked if he could send a replacement – and while we were at it, why not the whole range?

Domaine Bertrand
“Bonnège”
69200 Charentay
Tel: +33 4 74 66 85 96
www.domainebertrand.fr

2015 Beaujolais Villages
Medium-plus colour. Fresh, a little herby, but with some flashes of pretty and precise red fruits. An obvious BJ fruit but also with vivacity and energy. Packing a mid-palate punch, this is a tasty wine which holds a great finish for the label. I like!

2014 Brouilly
The back label says Vuril.
A little deeper colour. Hmm – this has a very pretty nose with fine and precise dark berries – it’s lovely! Much wider and with more fresh volume than the 2015 BJV. The flavour is fresh and with a faint bitter extraction – faintly tart but attractively so. Slow moving waves of concentrated finishing flavour. This finish is more subdued than the BJV – unlike the rest – but certainly not shorter. Very tasty wine indeed…

2014 Brouilly Pisse-Vielle
This time the back label says only Brouilly.
An open and fresh nose, perhaps a little smoke and menthol too. Much fresher wine, lots of energy with the backing of lots of herb-inflected fresh fruit. Bigger in the mouth but less fine than the Vuril. Impressively finishing, but I prefer the last wine.

2014 Fleurie
Modestly medium-plus coloured. Pinched top notes but a deeper bass-line of fresh fruit – it seems a little tight, but this nose remains very inviting. Lots of energy and complexity here – perhaps a little minerality too. A super, narrow line of intense flavour, perhaps with a hint of licorice in the finishing flavours. Tasty!

2013 Moulin-à-Vent Cuvée Infini(ment)
Deeper colour. Here is a nose that takes a little time to unwind but slowly offers more and more dark fruits edged with a little after-eight mintiness – cold from the fridge (it’s 30°C outside) there’s a clear creamy, oaky-vanilla impression, but as the wine warms it’s gone. Supple, and concentrated, here is some herb-edged dark fruit – but this is a wine of concentration – super texture and just a little bitter-chocolate finishing flavours to add to the fine blackcurrant fruit. Of all these, this is the one that would most obviously benefit from more cellar time – but I like the fact that it’s showing no obvious oak artifacts at a correct drinking temperature, despite its 25 months in barrel. Really super! I re-checked this on day 2, and the oak impression was much more forward – not my favourite when showing like this – but you should probably wait another 5 years…

To drink today, I think I’m going to take the Brouilly Vuril – a good set of wines…

2015 Beaujolais Blanc
From an argilo-calcaire soil.
Medium-pale lemon yellow colour. A pungently deep, sweet nose – some boiled sweets perhaps. Mouth-filling and with quite some concentration of sweet fruit, almost a little cloying – yet the acidity seems not so bad. A frank wine…

Burgundy Report

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