beaujolais from domaine bertrand…



When I did my big tasting in Beaujolais, way back in April, there was a problem with one producer’s wine – so he asked if he could send a replacement – and while we were at it, why not the whole range?

Domaine Bertrand
69200 Charentay
Tel: +33 4 74 66 85 96

2015 Beaujolais Villages
Medium-plus colour. Fresh, a little herby, but with some flashes of pretty and precise red fruits. An obvious BJ fruit but also with vivacity and energy. Packing a mid-palate punch, this is a tasty wine which holds a great finish for the label. I like!

2014 Brouilly
The back label says Vuril.
A little deeper colour. Hmm – this has a very pretty nose with fine and precise dark berries – it’s lovely! Much wider and with more fresh volume than the 2015 BJV. The flavour is fresh and with a faint bitter extraction – faintly tart but attractively so. Slow moving waves of concentrated finishing flavour. This finish is more subdued than the BJV – unlike the rest – but certainly not shorter. Very tasty wine indeed…

2014 Brouilly Pisse-Vielle
This time the back label says only Brouilly.
An open and fresh nose, perhaps a little smoke and menthol too. Much fresher wine, lots of energy with the backing of lots of herb-inflected fresh fruit. Bigger in the mouth but less fine than the Vuril. Impressively finishing, but I prefer the last wine.

2014 Fleurie
Modestly medium-plus coloured. Pinched top notes but a deeper bass-line of fresh fruit – it seems a little tight, but this nose remains very inviting. Lots of energy and complexity here – perhaps a little minerality too. A super, narrow line of intense flavour, perhaps with a hint of licorice in the finishing flavours. Tasty!

2013 Moulin-à-Vent Cuvée Infini(ment)
Deeper colour. Here is a nose that takes a little time to unwind but slowly offers more and more dark fruits edged with a little after-eight mintiness – cold from the fridge (it’s 30°C outside) there’s a clear creamy, oaky-vanilla impression, but as the wine warms it’s gone. Supple, and concentrated, here is some herb-edged dark fruit – but this is a wine of concentration – super texture and just a little bitter-chocolate finishing flavours to add to the fine blackcurrant fruit. Of all these, this is the one that would most obviously benefit from more cellar time – but I like the fact that it’s showing no obvious oak artifacts at a correct drinking temperature, despite its 25 months in barrel. Really super! I re-checked this on day 2, and the oak impression was much more forward – not my favourite when showing like this – but you should probably wait another 5 years…

To drink today, I think I’m going to take the Brouilly Vuril – a good set of wines…

2015 Beaujolais Blanc
From an argilo-calcaire soil.
Medium-pale lemon yellow colour. A pungently deep, sweet nose – some boiled sweets perhaps. Mouth-filling and with quite some concentration of sweet fruit, almost a little cloying – yet the acidity seems not so bad. A frank wine…

Agree? Disagree? Anything you'd like to add?

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