Yesterday, given our altitude, some thing was missing – too many people for not enough piste!
But today was lovely, if seemingly colder!
Enjoy your 31st December – I will!

1993 Vaudoisey-Creusefond, Pommard 1er Epenots
Hmm, the nose is not the most attractive thing – yet wait 30 minutes and aeration seems to remove a musty, oxidative element, and we start to sing along with an engaging sous-bois and sleek sweetness. In the mouth this retains some power and is more reflective of the later than the initial nose. I would even decant this – it tastes quite good, but only if you give it some time.
Rebuy – Maybe
2015 Olivier Leflaive, St.Aubin 1er En Rmilly
OOF! This has an overt nose, with faint saline elements and much less faint, attractive citrus notes. The palate is even more powerful, flexing muscle, but with bundles of energy and silky citrus flavours. Definitely a winner!
Rebuy – Yes
2006 Camille Giroud, Volnay 1er Taillepieds
Lots of leafy sous bois, a certain attractive sweetness too. In the mouth this retains a little tannin, but it’s just a modest anecdote versus the complex, unfolding flavour. This is drinking very well already. Lovely wine.
Rebuy – Yes
What a great pair these last two wines!
2015 Olivier Leflaive, Bourgogne Chardonnay Oncle Vincent
Made only from domaine vines in the commune of Puligny.
Lovely depth of aroma here, a certain freshness attached. Fine weight and complexity with a lovely texture and plenty of freshness. A clean, modestly mineral and simply delicious wine.
Rebuy – Yes
2005 Gaston & Pierre Ravaut, Ladoix 1er Le Bois Roussot
Hmm – deep fruit to fall into – this nose is very open and inviting. It’s just great in the mouth too – muscular yet with fine texture, and with a beautiful balance that bring everything perfectly together. A very fruit-driven wine – I would say still a young wine, but impeccable balanced and completely delicious.
Rebuy – Yes

2015 H&G Buisson, Meursault Les Climats de Marguerite
Ooh – that’s nice – a little Meursault spice and plenty of welcoming notes. In the mouth this is fresh yet luxurious, über-tasty wine, I have almost no notes as we drank it so fast! Bravo!
Rebuy – Yes
2006 Julien Duport, Côte de Brouilly Boucheratte
A very deep nose, some flowers and a suggestion of oak – but an impression of weight. Yes, really a big wine, and a young one – you still have to chew the contents! Darkly fruited and still rather massive – impressive stuff, but return in 5(+) more years.
Rebuy – Yes
2012 Comte Liger-Belair, Vosne-Romanée La Colombière
I’m pretty sure I’m to blame with two weeks storage at nearly 30° back in 2015, but virtually all my bottles from this case have a rather deep and reductive aromatic. In the mouth there is beautiful texture but still a little of the reductive flavour. I’m slowly working my way through the case… 🙁
When even a (non-French) winemaker asks me what I mean by ‘agrumes’ in my tasting notes, then I realise that I’m using a ‘too Frenchie’ term in an Anglo-Saxon context, and I need to explain. I’ve added the following to my ‘Technical Glossary‘ page:
Agrumes
Agrume is the type of fruit that can range from orange to grapefruit – and everything in-between.* An agrume desert is normally a mix of orange, mandarin, grapefruit et-cetera. Agrume reduction or ‘noble reduction‘ (as is the current phrase-du-jour) is the Roulot style of white wine reduction that (everyone is trying to mimic today) has a grapefruit-style aromatic and even flavour, yet is (technically) closely associated with a modest reduction.
*Agrume fruits: Bergamot, Bigarade, Calamondin, Chedrat, Citrandarin, Citrange, Citrumelo, Clementine, Clemenvilla, Combava, Grapefruit, Kumquat, Lemon, Lime, Limette, Mandarin, Orange, Pomelo, Tangelo, Tangerine, Tangor, Ugli, Yuzu

2015 Jomain, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Les Combettes
A lovely sweetly oaked nose, but more importantly sweet yellow citrus too. Large-scale in the mouth, but with fine acidity. There is richness but also a little minerality. The package is big, but impressively tasty!
Rebuy – Yes
2014 Dubreuil-Fontaine, Pernand-Vergelesses Clos Berthet
Hmm – vs the Jomain, this is a more structured, faintly phenolic, faintly reduced, mineral nose – really inviting but a world apart. In the mouth this has agrume and minerality – seemingly more structured, but with mouth-watering flavour. If anything, it starts with some austerity, but it gets better and better the longer it is open. More obviously young than the Puligny, but fine. Open at least an hour before drinking, or decant (or both!)
Rebuy – Yes
2014 Françoise André, Beaune 1er Les Reversées
Both aromatically, and in the mouth, this is a real honey. The aromas and flavour are layered and have real depth – top 1er cru performance. Dak-red fruit that is simply delicious. Really a fabulous wine!
Rebuy – Yes
2013 Armelle et Bernard Rion, Chambolle-Musigny Les Echezeaux
Hmm. The nose has a few Chambolle floral traits, but also a darker depth that seems more balsamic. The palate is much more interesting – good depth of flavour, a little more overt structure than the Beaune and a good freshness. This tastes quite good, but aromatically it could be better.
Rebuy – No
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