Entries from 2014

weekend – old and new vosne (ish…)

By billn on September 28, 2014 #degustation

DSC05062

Okay, Clos de Vougeot is close, but not quite Vosne, but elevage was there – surely the yeasts count for something 😉

1997 René Engel, Clos de Vougeot
Okay, I’ll admit – this is a little cloudy. And whilst the nose starts wide, Vosne in style, with a little beef and mocha, it slowly settles down in to a less interesting, more beef, potential brett mode. Luckily, it tastes brilliant; sweet, but focused and showing fine clarity and acidity – all of which are hard to come by in a 1997. To be honest, and despite the nose, I drank this with relish. This is clearly a ‘drink now’ wine but despite its issues, it was delicious!
Rebuy – Yes

Out with the old…

2012 Robert Sirugue, Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Petits Monts
Medium, medium-plus colour even a little purple at the rim. It’s a lovely, faintly spiced, sweet and deep cherry note. It is clearly a wine of Vosne – and an appealing one too. Crocquant, sweet, good depth of flavour – the flavour has the faintest bitter-coating – but that’s a positive as there’s even more interest. Good, round, perfectly balanced. Maybe it could have a little more intensity for a 1er, but it’s so delicious today, I really don’t care – and it’s far from an expensive bottle… Super!
Rebuy – Yes

there’s a hole…

By billn on September 25, 2014 #harvests#vintage 2014

Luckily, I’ve plenty of things to type. I’ve even more things to arrange – such as my first wave of tastings for white 2013s. But there’s a bit of a hole…

There are no more grapes – and come to think of it, no Mark de Morey either – he seems lost in action!

Of-course, it can be a little wearying, but it’s great to be part of a team, and one that can make such a difference – that’s the triage team – of-course! We brought (almost) the last grapes in on Tuesday, and then yesterday it rained – it seems planned like a well-oiled machine – eh?! 🙂

But more of today – I see that Panos beat me to the punch at winesearcher. It’s a more nuanced version of the terrible headline-making of Decanter and it’s worth your time. It’s the first time I’ve seen the suzukis linked to late cherries, but why not…

a couple of links…

By billn on September 24, 2014 #other sites#the market

Decanter News: “The latest Burgundy export figures suggest the region’s wines are becoming harder for consumers to find and there are fears that prices have risen too strongly.”
…I suppose the obvious reaction is – no shit Sherlock…

To distract me from such pricing, I’ve been reading Jerome’s tour of domaines during harvest. Good stuff.

Burgundy Harvest 23 September 2014…

By billn on September 23, 2014 #degustation#harvests#vintage 2014

OUF! That’s cold!

We woke today to blue skies and what would turn out to be a day of glorious sunshine – but OUF (again) – the temperature, and that wind is cold – are we suddenly in November? Heading to the triage table, my gillet wasn’t enough – I needed double-gillet-ing!

Today we started with grapes from Lavaux St.Jacques – they were grapes to warm the hart – if not my blue fingers while sorting. Really only the most peripheral of sorting was required, indeed they were so good that half our cache went straight to the fermentation tank with their stems intact. Lovely stuff.

Actually not so many grapes today, so we have the luxury of lunch closer to 12h00 than 14h00. My 2000 Pavelot Dominode is sublime (as is a lovely Meerlust Chardonnay), and really concentrated for the vintage – essence of dark, half-roast redcurrant on the nose – I could sniff all afternoon. But. There is Marsannay today too.

Actually the Marsannay are almost our last grapes for this vintage; only a little Hautes C̫tes red and white remain on the vine Рwhere they will stay until the end of the week. There were some unripe bunches to pull from this Marsannay, a little dried material too, but again, very, very little rot.

So that’s my triage for 2014. Almost all the home domaine’s tanks are now full. A good team and great grapes.

Burgundy Harvest 22 September 2014…

By billn on September 22, 2014 #degustation#harvests#vintage 2014

DSC05052I loved the Clos St.Denis but was completely unmoved by the Griotte – and I can’t blame the cork! How will the last of this trio of 2012s fare?

2012 Chézeaux (Ponsot), Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Charmes
Deeply coloured. Pure, crunchy griotte fruit – obvious ripeness but plenty of freshness too – I like. In the mouth this has a widening palate, sweetness but a nice texture and energy too. It seems longer-finishing that the Griotte-Chambertin and certainly much more interest today. This is a good wine that I’ll be happy try again (and again!)
Rebuy – Yes

Back to the harvest…

This morning was blue-skied sunshine – but 4 or 5 degrees cooler was my impression – it feels just a little more autumnal. The forecast for the coming days is great though, a disadvantage of that is that our growers have decided that they will wait, and maybe pick on Tuesday or Wednesday. Luckily, one of them has second thoughts, delivering a few pallets of Le Chambertin (fanfare!)

Given that the grapes arrive just before lunch, it seems fair that we leave them in the refrigerated truck and attend to them after desert and coffee – in France, even Le Roi comes after lunch 😉

We have only a small team today, but we have the time to sort, slow and steady – the grapes are in great shape – just some occasional rot and the small dried grapes to take away. This will make a lovely wine.

Pics from Beaune this morning, and Le Roi Chambertin:

Burgundy Harvest: 21 Sept 2014 (the pause)…

By billn on September 21, 2014 #harvests#vintage 2014

Of-course we had storms and even the possibility of hail in our weather forecast for today, so no grapes.

Instead, breakfast at Hotel Le Montrachet – for six – one of which has their birthday. We, very enjoyably, graze for 90 minutes, until they take it all away…

As you will note from the pictures (below), the storm seemed a long, way-away – if it was to come at all – there’s a short burst of rain in Beaune about 14h45, but only for 5 minutes against a backdrop of sunshine. So back to the keyboard, after cruising past the cows in Place Madeleine!

Post Script: A few small showers later in the evening, but basically nothing. We thank the forecasters for our day off!

Not so stormy Beaune:

mark’s harvest: 18 sept (pics)…

By Marko de Morey et de la Vosne on September 20, 2014 #harvests#vintage 2014

Burgundy Harvest: 20 Sept 2014…

By billn on September 20, 2014 #harvests#vintage 2014

DSC05021It’s Saturday!!

But no rest for the wicked – or those with grapes! The rain started again on Friday evening ~21h00 – it was still raining at 12h30, but I’ve no idea when it stopped. There were a few spots of rain this morning too, but not enough to really wet – the sun shone brightly from about 14h00 though. There’s the possibility of a storm with hail forecast for Sunday, so tomorrow we have no grapes – but there was plenty to pick today, hence, we triaged from 10h00-19h00 – admittedly with the two obligatory coffee-pauses and a good lunch. I brought the 1973 no-name Romanée St.Vivant – all chocolate, width and with just a faint suggestion of oxidation. It exceeded my expectations!

And the grapes? First, it was the return of the Santenay Villages whose picking was cut short yesterday due to the storm. Beautiful grapes as you can see below. Then (fanfare…) Corton Clos du Roi, then Maranges 1er Croix Aux Moines. Actually the loveliest grapes were the Santenay; the Clos du Roi had no rot but we had to concentrate on eliminating the small, dried grapes from the triage table – and there were lots. One of our parcels of Maranges had quite a bit of unripe clusters – we didn’t really want to pick it until next week – but given the forecast, the grower decided not to wait. Still, a rosé will also be made tonight 😉

First, the Santenay:


And the others:

Burgundy Report

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