Entries from 2014

just a few year-end bottles:

By billn on December 30, 2014 #degustation

2010 Rebourgeon-Mure Volnay 1er Santenots
Bright, with a pretty nose. Not a big burly Santenots, rather one of transparency, vibrancy and beautiful flavour – very yum!
Rebuy- Yes

1999 Nicolas Potel, Volnay
Ouf! This smells gorgeous – just a little leaft development and a fine floral note. In the mouth too this is really exellent and has the density and complexity of a much more self-important label. The finishing structure is a hint strict – so it’s still young, but this was really excellent!
Rebuy- Yes

1998 Bruno Clair, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Les Dominode
Hmm – the nose is a bit bretty (it’s been in my cellar only 12 years but I can’t account for it’s first couple) so not really to my taste, but not enough to stop me taking a sip. Yum! Get past the nose and this is very tasty indeed – half of a very good wine.
Rebuy- No

2007 Camille Giroud, Gevery-Chambertin 1er Les Cazetiers
Good clarity on the nose if rather tight. The palate has very nice depth of flavour and quite good energy too. Not a wine you’d take (blind) to be an 07 – another very tasty wine.
Rebuy- Yes

1985 Clos Frantin, Richebourg
You have to take bottles like this with a pinch of salt; having bought at auction, you’ve never an idea if it will be super, average or terrible – this, though, was was much better than super! Round, complex, inviting nose. Big in the mouth but with all the sweetness and friendliness of 1985 as coating to serious complexity. A wow wine – really something…
Rebuy- No chance!

2002 Louis Jadot, Vosne-Romanée 1er Petits Monts
A very junior version of the Richebourg but tasty enough. The last 1/3rd of the bottle was left in the fridge overnight – it was a shadow of itself on day two…
Rebuy- Maybe

1994 de Vogüé, Bonnes-Mares (Mag)
Quite a herbal nose – not really great, but the palate was excellent with a little fat and a lot of weight and flavour dimension. Really enjoyed!
Rebuy- Yes

2000 Bruno Clavelier, Vosne-Romanée 1er Aux Brûlées
A round and pretty aromatic, though without great weight. The palate is also a middle-weight but with very fine transparency and a gorgously sweet acidity as the glue. Super!
Rebuy- Yes

2000 Thomas-Moillard, Bonnes-Mares
First evening this is the standard semi-brutal, gravelly, T-M nose – simply, not special. Big in the mouth but lacking any finesse. Next day (overnight in the fridge) and the nose is really a lot finer and very interesting – the palate likewise has intensity and (unbelievably!) clarity plus real GC dimension – this drinks superbly on day 2. Very yum!
Rebuy- Yes

2011 Nicolas Rossignol, Volnay 1er Santenots
Here is a lovely nose with a nice floral component. The mouth is middle-weight tastiness. Balanced though with no obvious structure. Tasty yet complex. An easier drink than Santenots should be at this age, but that’s the vintage. Yum!
Rebuy- Yes

‘museum-ification of wine’

By billn on December 16, 2014 #books, maps, magazines, films even podcasts!#other sites

“Have ultrahigh prices distorted our understanding and enjoyment of wine?”

Well, have they?

I think so. I didn’t used to think and then re-think whether to open a bottle from, for instance, DRC 10-15 years ago. Today it is hard, because it’s not just great wine, it’s a new garage door or a fancy new refrigerator – or in some cases, even a new kitchen.

Good writing, and more importantly, thought-provoking writing, from Matt Kramer – he still has it

interesting stuff…

By billn on December 14, 2014 #the market

http://punchdrink.com/articles/is-the-jura-dealing-with-the-urban-outfitters-effect/

A well-written and thought-provoking piece. There are many viewpoints of-course, and it is really no different a complaint to that of people lamenting the high-price purchases of ‘outsiders’ in Burgundy i.e. LMVH, Château Latour and/or whoever is eventually going to stump up the cash for Pousse d’Or (I don’t see anyone stumping up the cash for Rebourseau!).

The argument cuts in all directions; Guillaume d’Angerville himself, hardly happy about a ‘negociant from Nuits’ having bought a sizable chunk of villages Volnay, when he would have preferred the vines to have stayed in ‘Volnay hands.’

It’s sometimes described as progress – it’s always transient – but change is inevitable…

cold but no chill…

By billn on December 09, 2014 #travels in burgundy 2014

After the virtually non-existent winter of 2013-2014, the winemakers are getting impatient for the chill of winter – especially those hoping to ski at Christmas 😉

There’s no chill yet, temperatures hardly dropping below 5°C overnight – still, that’s close to perfect if you don’t want to melt while jogging!

offer of the day – Leflaive 2013…

By billn on December 09, 2014 #the market

DOMAINE LEFLAIVE 2013 – Puligny-Montrachet (En Primeur)
Just for reflection, you will see the same offer prices of their 2012s in the brackets. Oh, and can anyone tell me if Montrachet was really included for the first time? I remember seeing a price but was temporarily blinded!

Bourgogne 2012 75cl 35.00 Swiss Francs (35.00)
Puligny-Montrachet 2012 75cl 65.00 (65.00)

PREMIERS CRUS
Puligny-Montrachet Les Clavoillons 75cl 88.00 (85.00)
Puligny-Montrachet Les Clavoillons 150cl 186.00
Puligny-Montrachet Les Clavoillons 300cl 412.00
Meursault Sous Le Dos d’Âne 75cl 99.00 (96.00)
Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières 75cl 148.00 (139.00)
Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes 75cl 159.00 (149.00)
Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles 75cl 175.00 (175.00)
Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles 150cl 360.00 (355.00)
Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles 300cl 760.00

GRANDS CRUS
Bienvenues Bâtard-Montrachet 75cl 319.00 (289.00)
Bâtard-Montrachet 75cl 355.00 (310.00)
Chevalier-Montrachet 75cl 450.00 (395.00)
Chevalier-Montrachet 75cl 150cl 910.00

Montrachet 75cl 4,850

I guess that last bottle will be 3x the price of DRC’s label then – at least the 1st tier DRC pricing – here’s mud in your eye 😉

last weekend’s wines…

By billn on December 09, 2014 #degustation

DSC05675
Quite a nice selection – the 2011 was a baby but a tasty one, the 2005 was a bit more porty and more volatile than I remember, but very good. Lastly the 2008 was the same as always!

2011 JC Boisset, Clos de la Roche
Quite a deep colour. The nose is fresh, mineral and seems a little muscular. In the mouth this entirely reflects the nose – no fat, decent concentration and plenty of interest. As a vintage it’s some way behind its equivalent in 2012, but in its own right a good and tasty wine.
Rebuy – Maybe

2005 Bertagna, Chambolle-Musigny Le Village
This was originally a magnificent example of 2005 Chambolle (I think Chambolle the pinnacle of 2005!); today I find the wine just a little more volatile and porty – though that could be this single bottle – but the weight, texture and depth of flavour remain on a brilliant level. Still, very good wine.
Rebuy – Maybe

2008 Marchand-Tawse, Corton
I may not be a fan of textural oak or high-toast aromas, but despite the obvious big dose of oak that’s still here, I am remain smitten. I know the coconut shouldn’t be there – but this wine tastes soooo good! The fruit is cool and silky, the intensity is excellent and the bottle lasts minutes (okay, quite a few minutes!) – but, gorgeous drinking. I think I may now have only 4 left – shame!!!
Rebuy – Yes

NYT – best winebooks of 2014(?)

By billn on December 05, 2014 #books, maps, magazines, films even podcasts!

http://www.nytimes.com/2014/12/10/dining/the-best-wine-books-of-2014.html

I’m guessing that editorial deadlines didn’t leave space for Jon Wyand’s ‘A Year in Corton’ – or maybe because the prose is in French – but the words are only a minor part of this book; a pictorial view of the producers and vines of that famous hill. Worth more than an honourable mention I think 😉

shrubbery and grand crus…

By billn on December 04, 2014 #travels in burgundy 2014

Easy to guess today – even without the manicured gardens – where else will you taste Chevalier, Chevalier Cabotte and Montrachet side-by-side?

Tasted for the first time with new winemaker Frederic Weber…

Burgundy Report

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