Entries from 2013

vintage 2013 – another day, and another day…

By billn on September 18, 2013 #harvests#vintage 2013

meursault-reds-17-sept
Pic. from Patrick Essa. Reds in Meursault yesterday

That’s how the harvest projections are still going. Whites grapes that were anticipated to be cut ~27th have now mainly been put back to the 30th-plus. One vigneron told me that it looks a little like 2008 for the whites, i.e. they may need to wait and wait but then pick very quickly before botrytis exerts any control. I did hear of some pickers who might pick some chardonnay next week – but they will only be able to make cremant I expect, as the grapes are not yet ripe.

As for reds, more and more are expecting their peak picking to be 3rd-10th October – doubtless there will be many domaines on either side of that window…

an honour…!

By billn on September 17, 2013 #books, maps, magazines, films even podcasts!#other sites

soon it will be rudy-time…

By billn on September 17, 2013 #other sites

Still no wine notes here for you – I think I need another 3-4 days before my head-cold clears – but there’s plenty of interesting reading out there; roll on the trial in December!

Un vigneron expert pour le FBI

p.ox? or the disturbing whiff of the emperor’s new clothes…

By billn on September 12, 2013 #other sites#p.ox

pox-australian-pox
A picture whose orign I would cite, but it’s been on my hard-drive for so long I can’t remember!
Anyway, p.ox, Aussie-style…

This piece, posted yesterday by Tyler Coleman on Winesearcher is at first glance a ‘holding story’ about p.ox; one that keeps (justifiably) the story in the (wine-)public conscious, and perhaps brings a new angle or two to the story, adding a little red-scare-mongering, but essentially, nothing new.

Nothing new except, perhaps, a fairytale flashback due to a quote from the University of Bordeaux’s Denis Dubourdieu (a.k.a. ‘the Emperor’)

“Vines that are too weak, and with a poor nitrogen intake, produce grapes low in glutathione. Summer drought conditions and/or competition from grass left to grow between the vine rows also worsens this deficit,” he explains.

This statement immediately struck a chord in my mind, being a paraphrasing of the reason that leading scientists (of the day) attributed to the death of vines due to phylloxera – it wasn’t the bug that was directly responsible, phylloxera was only having an effect because the vines were already tired or diseased! I mean, is this the best that we can expect from academics (with strong financial ties!) these days? Of-course Tyler Coleman may be short-changing us, and Prof. Dubourdieu might have full data to back up exactly what age a vine becomes tired, and due to what level of competition from grass, or ‘how much drought’ causes a problem – though, by the way, my 1976 whites are still brilliant, and I’ve never seen a p.oxed 2003 despite plenty of otherwise bizarre ones!

Maybe Denis has a real point somewhere along the line, and can explain why vines are tired today when they weren’t 30 years ago, and why his quote only looks bad because it’s out of context and has been dumbed down… Maybe…

As a scientist, I’m simply taken aback!

ray’s book

By billn on September 10, 2013 #books, maps, magazines, films even podcasts!

rays-bookSubtitled ‘The Road to Burgundy’
Published by Gotham Books (Penguin).

On trains and trams for the last couple of months I’ve been dipping into this book – Ray kindly thrust it into my hands the last time I saw him – and despite ~290 A5 pages, the chapters are relatively ‘bite-size’, so it was a perfect fit for such travel arrangements!

I’m pretty sure that most people here now know of Ray Walker; at his Maison Ilan he’s single-handedly redefined what an outsider can achieve in Burgundy, and his wines are quite good too! But a book? What next, a film? He’s already been practicing his camera-facing skills!

Not getting too far ahead of ourselves, let’s concentrate on the book… ‘Ray does Burgundy‘, as I shall henceforth refer to this book, is very much (to a British ear) a Disney book (or film? 🙂 ) of apparent worthiness, but this is also a fleeting tenor, because I was quickly wrapped up in the story, as opposed to the storytelling – and given the detail the book covers, Ray must have a hell of a memory for events and dialogue. Actually I knew quite a lot of the story from various meetings with Ray, but had assumed much of it wasn’t for print – how wrong I was – but Ray tells a good tale!

Of-course I know many of the book’s actors, but Ray does Burgundy is anyway a fascinating story, indeed book: It’s about destiny, the journey, serendipity, the odd psycho (clearly better than rogues, or at least in this particular case) and relationships, like wine, forged. Actually I think that Ray was more than a little lucky in his various dealings, as there are clearly more rogues than psychos – perhaps it was all good character judgement on his part!

Whilst many see Ray’s progress as nothing short of a miracle, I personally I have the impression that Burgundians are more open to outsiders than their fellow locals and I’ve no doubt that this was in Ray’s favour – had he not met a Leflaive or a Gouges (etcetera) there may have been other willing substitutes – but there can be no discounting that it takes effort, sacrifice, enthusiasm and eventually attention to detail, to do what Ray has done. In most things Ray clearly prefers, where possible, to have control of the narrative, but in the end (good book or bad book – though it IS a good book), Ray is first and foremost a wine-producer, so this is how I judge him, and given the quality of his wines, to-date, Ray seems to have that taped…

dr.georges mugneret’s 2002 gevrey – the baby ruchottes…

By billn on September 08, 2013 #degustation

georges-mugneret-2002-gevrey-chambertin

I was, perhaps, a little dumb to open this one; I’m in the early stages of a cold, and despite losing many of my sniffing faculties, I just happened to reach for the cork-screw anyway!

The 2002 was the first vintage for this wine (I think), the declassified young vines from Ruchottes-Chambertin. On release I though it excellent, unlike the 2003 or 2004, each compromised but for different reasons. I also have a 2005 ready to open, but maybe my nose will demand that I wait a few days for that!

2002 Dr. Georges Mugneret, Gevrey-Chambertin
Medium-plus colour. The nose is a little tight (or maybe my nose is a little tight!) but there is still a sweet dark-cherry or plum fruit. In the mouth this has a lovely, welcoming, sweetness, a round yet lithe impression that is both balanced and texturally very nice indeed. There is tannin but it is little more than an anecdote, and a perfect acidity that supports medium-plus length flavours. I could almost guess Chambolle! Just a very, very pretty wine indeed – I have a few more bottles, but I really wish I’d pushed the boat out a little more. Lovely!
Rebuy – Yes

ambroise: a carbonated beverage or wine?

By billn on September 07, 2013 #degustation

ambroise-2009-bourgogne

I cannot lie, these days I’m having a bit of a love-hate relationship with dissolved CO2 in young wines – I can only love the wines when it’s gone – before I hate them…!

2009 Maison Ambroise, Bourgogne
I like the screw-cap – it’s quick and easy – there, the wine is already in my glass. I have to say, don’t like the smell though; there’s the toasty oak of Bordeaux – or Pousse d’Or – and the CO2 backed sweetness makes me think of well-known carbonated beverages, not wine – all I can say is, at least it’s not reduced! The advantage of a screw-cap, though, is that you don’t have to get your finger wet: put the cap back on and shake for all your worth! After half an hour, this is real wine, and not oaky wine either; there’s a friendly red cherry and a hint of herb too – actually it’s quite nice now the oak smell has left us. In the mouth the overall stance has a decent focus, more than adequate concentration (for the label) and the balance is fine. There are no wines from Ambroise in my cellar, and that’s down to my perception of their oak, but once it fades, you are left with a very successful wine, I really rather liked it!!!
Rebuy – Yes

Burgundy Report

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