Entries from 2010

smudged spectacle(s)

By billn on March 15, 2010 #asides

I tuned in to watch the ‘spectacle’ of Formula 1 yesterday. Actually, it turned out to be the spectacle of ‘racers’ saving their tyres i.e. not driving too close to car in front! As big an F1 fan as I am, what a waste of 2 hours only to see people following each other, but not too close…
(if I hadn’t been out from bed for only a couple of hours it might have been enough to drive me to drink)

2001 leflaive, mugneret-gibourg & fevre

By billn on March 14, 2010 #degustation

leflaive-bourgogne

This weekend. friends, food and three 2001s:

2001 Leflaive, Bourgogne
  Medium-plus yellow colour. The nose had plenty of struck match and savoury elements – even intruding on the (quite) big flavours. Initially seemed a little too fat. I decanted and returned after 3 hours. Smooth interesting and fruit driven aromas, the struck match is gone and the balance is better – or maybe my palate is better! It’s a concentrated and ripe impression – high quality.
2001 Fevre Le Clos   Chalk and cheese versus the Leflaive – actually (way back when) this wine was only about 10% more expensive than the Leflaive. Sharper, finer, still quite ripe but a wine of focus and precision. If anything the Leflaive had more overt concentration, but not the intensity.
2001 Mugneret-Gibourg, Vosne-Romanée   Has a decent, dark colour. The nose is dark-fruit shaded and shows the village spicyness. In the mouth it has lost the fat and impact of it’s youth – it’s narrower and more taught. There is certainly some development of mid-palate complexity and a decent length. To drink today it’s quite okay, but reward is at least 7 or 8 years away.
For all: Rebuy – Yes

Actualy, there was also a bottle of 1995 Wolf-Blass ‘Black Label’ – not sure how that got there 😉

tollot-beaut 2004 savigny 1er champ-chevrey

By billn on March 12, 2010 #degustation

tollot-beaut-savigny-champ-chevrey
Always a favourite cuvée of mine, but that’s not quite enough to overcome the vintage imperfection – not yet anyway.

2004 Tollot-Beaut, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Champ-Chevery
Medium colour. A clear, if not stomach churning, vintage character, below is a deep, dark and slightly sweet fruit base. The combination of acidity and faintly astringent tannin have a not too mouth-puckering affect, and the texture is quite interesting. The fruit has just enough sweetness to deliver a level of balance.
Rebuy – No

2002 bouchard père beaune 1er grèves de l’enfant jesus

By billn on March 11, 2010 #degustation

bouchard-beaune-enfant-jesus

The first from this 6-pack, bought on release.

2002 Bouchard Père et Fils, Beaune 1er Grèves l’Enfant Jesus
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose is very fine; there’s latent oak that brings a little espresso macchiato into the equation but essentially it’s about a fresh, dark red fruit and occasional faint whiffs of bacon. Smooth, fresh and intense, it’s a classic middle-years wine – forward acidity and a narrow, lean complexion, but long too. This will be excellent – eventually! I won’t open another for 5 years, but I expect I’ll need to wait another five for real dividends. Super.
Rebuy – Yes

ancient dupes…

By billn on March 09, 2010 #other sites

electric-wineBrowsing 137 years of Popular Science magazine, I’m reminded that it’s quite a while since my ‘dupes revisited‘ post. Just to show that all is not new under the sun:

All those years years of Popular Science magazine’s scientific scoops (!) are now freely available online here.

The format is similar to Google Books – you make a search and your chosen result is displayed in a viewer. I played for only 5 minutes, but was instantly drawn to the following link:

May 1929, page 67
Ages Wine by Electricity in a Few Hours FOR literally hundreds of years, the only method used by European wine growers to accelerate the natural ripening or aging process of wine consisted of drawing wine from one cask to another, a system known as “racking”…

I would have been interested in “the manufacturers of devices mentioned in the issue“!

Nothing new under the sun…

alex gambal 2007 chambolle-musigny 1er les charmes

By billn on March 09, 2010 #degustation

gambal-chambolle-charmes

2007 Alex Gambal, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Charmes
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose shows a little savoury smokiness over a deeper, but tighter fruit core. In the mouth, your first impression is of something not entirely substantial, yet there is an extension into the the finish and width in the mid-palate that suggests much more. The acidity is very well judged and with extended aeration (say 2 hours) the palate fills out a little, demonstrating intensity and some minerality. The last third of the bottle is altogether more satisfying – but on day 2. Beautiful notes of violets round out the nose, and whilst the flavours remain quite mineral, the palate shows a hint more cushioning. Enough of an improvement to warrant buying again instead of ‘maybe’.
Rebuy – Yes

bordeaux/burgundy – a vintage rivalry, jean-robert pitte (2008)

By billn on March 08, 2010 #books, maps, magazines, films even podcasts!

bordeaux-burgundy-jean-robert-pitteIt was while visiting Aubert de Villaine way back in 2005 that he recommended this book to me, and despite it only (at that time) being available in French, I picked up a copy. It’s probably a measure of my French niveau that I recollect scarcely a thing – except for a quote to the effect ‘when I drink Burgundy, I piss Bordeaux’ – not sure how I remembered that one!

Anyway, once the English translation came out I felt compelled to revisit, and I’m pleased that I did. This book is about the histories and interactions of and between France’s two great wine regions – Burgundy and Bordeaux – effectively the ‘how and why’ the regions are as we know them today. It’s not just about how one region uses merlot and the other pinot, rather it is how history, politics and their respective trading partners shaped the regions as we see them today.

This is such a thoughtful and studied book and it manages, as close as possible, to toe a very difficult line that seems bias free – a tough task, you can be sure! Excellently researched, some 50 of its 230 pages are given over to detailed references and a bibliography – though I note that the one quote that I remembered from the edition en Français seems to have migrated from the main text to the reference section – maybe it sounded better in French!

Translations can always be tricky, but this really is a first-class piece of work – it is beautifully written. Not just a book for the shelf, this deserves to be revisited over and over, I can’t recommend it highly enough. I’ll leave you with a few quotes:

There is more history than geography in a bottle of wine.

Bordeaux is made in the sun, Champagne in the cellar, and Burgundy in the soil.

The very idea of garage wine, as we shall see, exasperates some connoisseurs and critics. Their annoyance is misplaced, for no-one is obliged to buy over-priced wines.

A certain number of domaines have embraced the methods either of organic agriculture or a stricter version, biodynamics, formulated in the early twentieth century by the German philosopher Rudolf Steiner, who nonetheless condemned the consumption of wine.

Blight was rampant in the 1970s and up until 1985. The use of potash (potassium) was encouraged by a government viticulture official, André Vedel, who recommended the staggering proportion of 2,400 kilograms (more than 5 thousand pounds) per hectare; see Renvoisé, Le Monde du Vin,222. The potash mines may have been shut down in Alsace, but they could have been reopened in the vineyards of Burgundy. It needs to be kept in mind that its effects are not transient, since potash remains in the soil for a very long time.

offer of the day – clos de tart 2008…

By billn on March 07, 2010 #the market

LA FORGE DE TART 2008 75cl 129.00 (159.80 for the 2007) Swiss Francs

CLOS DE TART Grand Cru 2008 75cl 249.00 (299.50)
CLOS DE TART Grand Cru 2008 150cl 528.00 (629.00)
CLOS DE TART Grand Cru 2008 300cl 1196.00 (1398.00)

The offers are coming in, thick-and-fast.

A modest reduction versus 2007 here. I think that a ‘great’ wine can certainly be worth 250 SFr and this domaine does occasionally deliver ‘great’ but in this case I can’t offer guidance as I haven’t tasted. That said, no 1er cru of Morey is worth 130 Francs….

Burgundy Report

Translate »

You are using an outdated browser. Please update your browser to view this website correctly: https://browsehappy.com/;