Entries from 2010

2007 bonneau du martray corton-charlemagne

By billn on February 28, 2010 #degustation

bonneau-martray-charlemagne

2007 Bonneau du Martray, Corton-Charlemagne
Very pale yellow colour. Perhaps it was a little cold, but this was very tight to start with. Eventually the nose starts to give up fresh apple fruit backed by cold (trifle) custard. In the mouth this is absolutely linear, firing into an understated but very long finish that has a little sweet vanilla attached. Only if you keep the wine in your mouth do you appreciate the weight of extract and feel the mid-palate intensity. This is a very tight but very good wine – to be honest I’m impressed, but I really expected to be ‘wowed’!
Rebuy – Yes

nicolas potel 2000 savigny-lès-beaune les peuillets

By billn on February 27, 2010 #degustation

2000 Potel Nicolas, Savigny-lès-Beaune Les PeuilletsFeb. 2010
Medium colour – salmon pink at the rim. The nose, right from popping the cork is wide-open, brimming with coffee-laden, musky aromas, maybe a hint of brett too but it’s only part of the complexity. Quite well textured, decently balanced with unseen but slowly mouthwatering acidity. Lovely extension and intensity in the mid-palate that fades into a decent finish. Very much enjoyed!

offer of the day – domaine ferret pouilly-fuissé 2006-2008

By billn on February 26, 2010 #the market

POUILLY-FUISSE Village 2007 37,5cl 18.00 (Swiss francs)
POUILLY-FUISSE Village 2007 75cl 32.00

POUILLY-FUISSE Village 2008 37,5cl 18.00
POUILLY-FUISSE Village 2008 75cl 32.00

POUILLY-FUISSE Tête de Cru Les Clos 2007 75cl 42.00

POUILLY-FUISSE Hors Classe Les Ménétrières 2006 75cl 49.00
POUILLY-FUISSE Hors Classe Les Ménétrières 2007 75cl 49.00

Now part of Jadot, these wines have never been cheap, or should I say ‘as cheap’ as others from Pouilly, yet, based on what I tasted at Jadot I almost see some value here, if I forget Chablis for a moment…

two recent clos from fevre…

By billn on February 26, 2010 #degustation

fevre-clos

With all the bruhaha of p.ox surrounding wines from Fevre in 2002 – typically, a vintage I have something close to 12 bottles of – I suppose that I will have to make those bottles my house wine for 2010, despite strong competition from Gambal’s 2006 Bourgogne!

Anyway a 2001 and a 2002 were opened last week, and those bottles were absolutely fine. The 2001 seems the more muscular and dense. The 2002 has a little more barrel vanilla and dimension in the mid-palate – it seems a little riper – perhaps that’s just the sweetness of the barrels(?) Both bottles were drunk over 3-4 days, left unstoppered in the refrigerator each night – the 2001 really did seem bullet-proof. Today I have a very slight preference for the 2001, tomorrow, who knows?

Without the elephant in the room I might buy more, but big ears is hiding behind the sofa, maybe there are not so many tomorrows left for these bottles…

white wines with a red nose…

By billn on February 25, 2010 #degustation#p.ox#travel#travel pics

klosters-madrisa
Impressed with my dexterity in Photoshop? Actually it is just a moody (blurred!) image from my phone…

klosters - dog tiredOnly a few days after a day-trip to Mürren we find ourselves in Klosters – well it is the season! Mainly blue sky, but getting a little warm with sticky snow by lunchtime – good for delivering the characteristic red nose though!

The long-legged redhead went to ‘doggy-daycare’ with 12-13 other daytime-abandoned dogs, delivering the perfect evening example of ‘dog-tired’.

A couple of evening wines – both 2003 whites – might be of interest for you. First up was the 2003 Vincent Girardin, Corton-Charlemagne which delivered an even better performance than this last bottle – whilst not ‘fresh’, I certainly wasn’t longing for more acidity. To follow, came the 2003 Vincent Girardin, Chevailier-Montrachet and what an impressive bottle – and I mean the bottle – a super-deep punt and heavy glass. On pouring, nothing untoward on the colour, but the nose has the first whiffs of oxidation – annoying rather than destructive. Across the palate this is certainly balanced enough and displays a generous extra mass versus the Charlemagne, the texture is good too. Unfortunately this is linear and young – tasty, but little overt complexity – just what you don’t want to hear after the oxidative hints on the nose. That’s a shame, as non-oxidising bottles won’t be anywhere near peaking in the next 5 years…

michel lafarge 1997 volnay 1er

By billn on February 19, 2010 #asides

lafarge-volnay-1er

What a wine; 3 days, three different results. Drunk over three nights, whilst over-nighting in the refigerator.

1997 Michel Lafarge, Volnay 1er Cru
Day 1. Medium rusty-red colour. Despite a certain 1997 ripeness to the fruit aromas, there is something of a cool edge and plenty of herbal notes – overall it’s ruff and gruff – not a lacy picture of Volnay. The leading edge is the acidity, though behind it the tannin is quite fine. The first flavours have a slight oxidised impression, but the best part of the wine is its extra dimension of very nice mid-palate flavour. Overall this wine lacks a lot of charm, and some aspects give me concern for further cellaring – still, this was my last.
Rebuy – No
Day 2. Same room, same time of day – looks less rust coloured (!?) The aromatics have really cleaned up, it’s still slightly austere but a little less herbal. More balance, and that slight oxidised flavour is gone, the fruit has an altogether younger and darker impression – I would even go as far as to say appeal! Whilst still not charming, I would say this is an altogether more ‘correct’ performance – one that indicates the vigour of youth rather than the previous day’s pallor of age…
Rebuy – Yes
Day 3. Like day 2, but more diffuse. Today the austerity coupled to the loose performance would give it the thumbs down. Interesting that the day 1 problem seemed to be something volatile in the wine – once it was gone, things really came together.
Rebuy – No

favourite olympic pic…

By billn on February 18, 2010 #random

Noelle-Barahona-of-ChileNice that Whistler now has sunshine to go with the snow, and what a race yesterday!

The ladies downhill – carnage – with poor Anja Paerson, unintentionally leaping further than Eddie the Eagle(!) and in the process losing a nailed-down silver medal 🙁

I love this picture of Noelle Barahona of Chile disappearing underneath a barrier at the finish line – you may need to look twice 😉
Photograph: Clive Mason/Getty Images

2006 alex gambal bourgogne blanc

By billn on February 18, 2010 #degustation

gambal_bourgogne

It’s not a proper tasting note I suppose, but I’m sure you’ll get the idea 😉

2006 Alex Gambal, Bourgogne Blanc
I might have written elsewhere that there’s a ‘deliciousness’ to chardonnay (sorry white burgundy!) that can really perk you up – particularly if you’re tasting at 9:00am! I recall a tasting about 1 year ago at Maison Alex Gambal, before we dived into the 2007s we tasted Alex’s most basic bourgogne blanc – a 2006 – it just hit the spot! For somebody of limited will-power there was absolutely no doubt that ‘on the spot’ I would order a case – not unexpectedly I have cases dotted around the Côte d’Or only waiting for my next visit – well, that and some cash of-course! I finally got around to picking it up (amongst other things) when I visited to taste the 2008s about 2 weeks ago. So, one year-on, how does this wine show? The 2006 vintage has endowed it with a little extra richness but it remains perfectly well balanced. Clearly then, this wine has only one obvious flaw – I bought it to use as a nice summer aperitif, but I’ve already drunk two bottles – it seems unlikely that any will survive to see the official starting date for summer time – clearly it’s not fit for purpose then!
Rebuy – Yes

Burgundy Report

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