The cork comes out in one piece – no mean feet in these older Bourées – the bottle glass has a blue shade to it; clearly a bit unscientific but I’ve never yet had an off wine from a blue-shade bottle! Very good, relatively young colour. The nose? Well it’s rather particular; in-fact blind this is a 2004 with at least a 6/10 ‘score’ for pyrazines. Underneath is a pretty depth of still croquant, sugared strawberry fruit with the faintest suggestion of stems – as an occasional bottle, I’m quite happy to put this in my mouth! There is weight and sweetness to the red fruit with fine if understated acidity – overall a very smooth ride. There is some taste from the pyrazines – mainly in the mid palate before the flavour slowly decays in the finish. I have to say, pyrazines aside this is quite some wine – for those with low sensitivity I expect they would absolutely love this bottle – certainly I find it interesting and still drinkable: Indeed quite a remarkable bottle.
Monthelie
2009 Roulot Guy Monthelie
2007 Bouchard Père et Fils Monthelie
2007 Terres d'Arômes Monthelie
Again starts with a floral perfume, though darker-skinned fruit aromas start to take-over, eventually it takes on a slightly more savoury aspect and maybe with a hint of reduction(?) at any rate, there are numerous darker elements. This is not quite so ripe as the ‘Cave 18’, but appears more taught and together. The tannins are a little grainy and the nice freshness brings a good lift in the mid-palate – certainly more depth than the bourgogne. A nice wine.
2005 Bouchard Père et Fils Monthelie
I remember the young 2003 making a strong impression for it’s fun, concentrated fruit-essence style. This wine (bottled in January) is almost as much fun, but considerable more sophisticated. From Bouchard’s own 2.9 hectares of vines. The nose is wider and fresher than the Bourgogne, with darker-skinned fruits and a little oak spice. Fuller in the mouth, considerably more serious structure – some grain to the tannin which clings to your teeth – yet this retains a fun face. Supple and ripe. Nice wine.
2005 Boisset Jean-Claude Monthelie
2003 Bouchard Père et Fils Monthelie
Only 40% of the normal crop from this vineyard despite being planted in the north-south orientation, hence, affording some protection from the direct 2003 sun. Jumps out of the glass, amazing nose, it’s pure, fresh blueberry. Mouthfilling with, by a significant margin, quite best fruit I’ve ever seen in a Monthélie! Grainy tannins and an unexpected freshness. Bravo, I expect this wine will be a steal!
1998 Jadot Louis Monthelie
Medium-plus cherry red. Nose is very black – cherry and blackberry – and becomes sweeter with time in the glass. Fresh palate with forward tannins that are a little on the grainy side. Slightly rustic today, but there’s plenty of fruit concentration to merit leaving the bottles another year or two. Almost good.
1999 Bouchard Père et Fils Monthelie
This is a relatively new vineyard for BP&F which was purchased in 1996 from the Domaine Ropiteau. Medium red colour. Understated nose is higher toned. Less fat perhaps then the previous wine but pure medium intensity fruit. Tannins are well represented, but don’t get out of hand. I’d leave this for 2 or 3 years, I think it should be almost good.