A wine that Nicolas says he has been waiting a long time to get hold of. Nice, elegant and fine fruit – not showing much depth today. Clearly there’s an executive texture of silky tannin here. The flavours like the aromas are a little tight. The wine impresses on some levels, it’s certainly quite elegant, but I’d have preferred to spend a little more time with it.
These vines were mainly planted in two tranches in 1987 and 1991. Medium colour – just a little deeper than the villages. This beautiful nose that just hints towards stems is just so fine and soft but offers beautiful depth. Silky texture with a super dimension of creamy fruit. The finish lingers with a little oak bitterness – this will fade. I think this wine is gorgeous.
This 79 displayed a beautiful dark chocolate, sweet nose that still seemed fresh. Really mouth-filling. Starts a little narrow but then really fills your mouth with broad panorama of flavour – very gevrey grand cru in style if (possibly) needing a bit more intensity for that badge – very sweet fruit but the acidity is balanced. Plenty of astringent tannin and slowly fading flavours – a gorgeous mouthful – and there’s no rush to drink.
This 69, if anything, shows a younger colour than the ’79. More mineral and medicinal aromas. In the mouth much more mineral and muscular – yet with the same panoramic, faintly astringent width as the 79. Faintly long and very sprightly. There is a perfect skeleton here for a longer life than the 79.
Deep colour. After the Nuits the nose is more mineral and wide showing mainly black fruits, time in the glass only adds to the intensity. The palate is lithe, muscular and again black shaded. There’s real intensity and length – this wine comes across as less typical of 2003. Versus the Nuits this has a different level of refinement, focus and, frankly, class. A Fantasic wine that would outperform many grand crus – shame it costs double the price of the Nuits.
Medium ruby colour but just starting to show an amber/brown caste. The nose starts with fresh, primary and slightly roasted fruits and is quite earthy. Given aeration it becomes a little more meaty. The palate has a delightful texture with good acidity and smooth tannins which need looking for. Like the nose there’s a baked element to the fruit. The length is medium-plus – another very pleasing wine that should only get better over the next few years