Another wine with very reticent aromatics – I can’t say anything here. In the mouth it’s concentrated and focused and has a nice intensity to it. Very long and just slightly savoury in the finish. Good Charlemagne!
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Corton-Charlemagne
1998 Hospices de Beaune Corton-Charlemagne
Cuvée François de Salins, Maison Paul Reitz. The colour is already a little concerning – a deep, burnished golden – fortunately the aromas have only the barest suggestion of anything oxidative, mainly showcasing a deep core of mature fruit edged with a trace of toffee. The palate is balanced, showing a waxy-smooth texture and a very nice length, redolent of the toffee on the nose. I think this is ready right now and will only decline from here. Very enjoyable – tinged with buyer’s regret as I only bought one!
2006 Pavillon Corton-Charlemagne
Sourced from the south-facing Languettes and the first grapes harvested for the firm. The nose shows very focused, high-toned width. In the mouth its linear but with a little mid-palate richness and an understated power – but a balanced and mineral power. It’s certainly not a ‘look at me’ wine, rather one that efficiently delivers in-line with its label.
1998 Bouchard Père et Fils Corton-Charlemagne
From magnum. Medium golden. A nose that eventually gave up a creamy width and some savoury tones but consistently focused on the mineral. The palate was likewise mineral with good acidity and a number of waves of flavour prolonging the finish. Vibrant and tasty and stayed strong in the glass for the 2 hours we were together.
2006 Potel Nicolas Corton-Charlemagne
2006 Bouchard Père et Fils Corton-Charlemagne
Aromatically a little deeper, with fewer high-tones. This is more mineral and with more acidity defining the spine of the wine. This is also superbly long and perhaps with even better focus. It’s driven by minerality rather than the waves of creamy fruit of the Chevalier. Today I would drink the Chevalier, but in 10 years? I’ll duck the question, but I’d love to make the comparison!