Strangely orange in colour. The nose is very strange – almost menthol, then corked…
Corton-Charlemagne
2003 Bouchard Père et Fils Corton-Charlemagne
Bottled in January, 2-3 months after the other whites. The vines are at the fop of the hill and north-east facing, Philippe believes that this cooler spot helped to preserve acidity this year. Lovely nose, hints of green, cream covered apricots. Instantly classic palate with tons of complexity – really good mouthfeel. The finish is a strong one, fading only slowly. A very good wine that speaks more of Corton-Charlemagne than of 2003 – excellent.
2002 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne
A young, pale colour. A wine whose aromatics major on fruit. Seems fat, but needs just a little more time as there’s still a little oak marking the palate. Gives the impression of lower acidity, but perhaps that’s due to the extra fat. Probably starting to sing as you read this – or leave until 2015+
2001 En Truffière (Vincent Girardin) Corton-Charlemagne
1997 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne
A deeper yellow colour. The high-toned nose has hints of oak and is much more backward than a recent half bottle that showed lots of exotic fruit. The palate doesn’t have the kick or the complexity of 1995 that follows, still it is showing in a very young and backward way. This wine from the domain is quite backward compared to other examples – presumably from cooler storage.
2001 Dubreuil-Fontaine Corton-Charlemagne
Quite pale. A pure and understated nose that gives few hints to the depth to come. The palate shows quite a fat attack becoming more mineral on the mid-palate and into the finish. Slowly fading length. Has classic Charlemagne attack, but the overall style is closer to the understatement of 2001 from Bonneau du Martray than the outright power of Henri Boillot’s 2001. I bought a couple more of these.
2001 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne
1995 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne
Medium golden colour. The nose is a little closed with what I first thought to be faint oxidative notes but with air becomes honied. The palate is fat and concentrated showing real complexity and super acidity. The finish is reminiscent of fresh, wild strawberries. This wine will last a very long time – and will be super.