1983 Bourée Pierre Fils Charmes-Chambertin

By billn on October 31, 2011

Medium colour, again with plenty of browning. The nose starts in a very tight way; some savoury notes but little else to latch onto. Very slowly a raspberry perfume with clear stem references begins to evolve. The first mouthful is of a perfectly balanced, if rather thin, wine. There is a little rasp from what remains of the tannin – it’s a nice touch of character. There is eventually an interesting extra dimension, and some intensity, in the mid-palate – this is not a food wine, it’s flavours are engulfed by just about anything. Without food there’s just enough sweetness, but overall, it’s hardly worth the effort. After the 66 Pommard of last week, this is something of a let-down.

1996 Gallois Dominique Charmes-Chambertin

By billn on March 11, 2011

Deep and vibrant – lovely colour. The nose has lots of maturity about it, and certainly plenty of complexity; depth, a little morel mushroom, also a little cigar-box that slowly morphs into cedar-ish hints, not unlike the of 2004 pyrazines but in no way over-powering. In the mouth there’s lots of intensity here; super acidity and very understated tannin – very long with a quite mineral flavour. Sweetness of fruit remains an undertow. You could get a great idea of of a mature Charmes by drinking this already – and that’s a very different personality to a young Charmes – but have no fear, there’s another 20 years of interest here for sure. Yum.

2007 Gallois Dominique Charmes-Chambertin

By billn on January 28, 2011

These vines are now over one-hundred years old. The nose starts just a little diffuse. In the mouth it’s full and round with a discrete edge of vanilla-infused flavour. The structure is fine with good acidity – a nice length of flavour too, also with a hint of vanilla. This is a wine to unwind with in a comfortable chair. Actually very long flavours…

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